"" wrote: > I 'vote' for the caliper too. Had exact problem on a Dodge > Caravan. > Changed rotors/pads. Good for a while then the vibration at > braking > came back. Finally changed one front caliper and that was > more than a > year ago. No more problem. > > Oh, the heat was so intensive, I can feel one wheel was hotter > than the > other. > > henry wrote: > > I have a 96 e230 and when I break I'm getting a vibration > through the car. > > I thought this was the disks so I changed them (all) which > solved the > > problem for about 1000 miles. The problem came back so I > assumed that the > > disks were faulty so I took them back and had them changed > under warranty. > > However, again after about 1000 miles the problem came back. > Someone > > suggested a 'stick calliper's so when I changed the disks > again (third time) > > I pushed the piston out three or four times and then looked > to move ok. > > > > However, the problem is back again. The problem is really > bad braking at > > around 60 so I had the wheel balance checked and its fine. > > > > Before I take it into the dealer to have them look at it, is > there anything > > anyone can suggest ?. ( I have checked and re checked the > tightness of the > > bolts etc ) > > > >
Henry.... Your reoccurring brake problem is probably due to a bad contamination on the axel flange, where the inside machined part of the rotor mates up with. When ever changing the rotors, the original flange has received transfer of steel rust and oxidants :( from the old rotors, that build up on its surface. The new rotor must mate with the flange very very cleanly and flat, or else you will get a tremendous amount of "run out" (wobble) even though the rotor is new. The same thing applies to the inside of the aluminum cast wheel your MB comes with. A large flat medium file must be used to flat out the surface of the axel flange, along with some 320 wet dry sand paper to help clean the transfered oxidation off of all surfaces. Keep filing in straight strokes until the whole flange surface is shinny again. Use brake cleaner or kerosene to keep your field of view fresh. Do the same for the inside of the cast aluminum rim. If a new or freshly cut rotor is installed on a dirty flange, a wobbly pulsing braking action could soon appear. A frozen caliper will cause a large noticable heat build up on the affected wheel, so check for this by carefully touching the rim after a 2 mile or so drive. If one particular rim is super hot, get a new OEM replacement caliper from some on line parts distributor. Warped Rotors stemming from a sticky caliper this causing overheating, usually would occur in the rear, as they are thinner and more prone to warpage. Get a dial indicator with a magnetic base to check your rotor?s run out, you will probably see as much as 30 to 50 thousands on a new rotor, if your flange is dirty. This has to be checked on the inside surface of the rotor, as your rim must be installed to mate the rotor to the axel flange. Three to Five thousands is good, but as much as ten can be tolerated.... Never recycle used pads with new rotors. always start from scratch: New rotors or resurfaced rotors= new set of pads...... Dave....
"93" 300TE 4 matic 181,000