Well Fudge,my CV Joint on W123 just took a dump!

I guess I angered the W123 gods today pondering buying the 560SEC I discussed earlier!Anyways I have been dreading this chapter of W123 ownership for some time now.I knew it was going out for about 2 months
now but the time has come to change.
1)Should I bite the bullet and change both sides,or will one side be adequate? 2)At the tune of $500 for each side,honestly are there any drawbacks to refurbished ones for around $150-200? 3)What is the "BEST" differential SAE 90 hypoid gear oil available and recommended?I have no idea yet if its limited slip or not.If it is limited slip,do I have to buy the special MB lubricant from the dealer?
My W123 is a 80 280E euro model just in case this info is needed!Any help will be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Hi, I had a W123 on which the rear CV joint blew up! I replaced just the one side with a recon one, cost around 150 UKP. New one from Mercedes was around 500 UKP. While I was at it I replaced the rear diff oil with the Mercedes oil. Also it is a very good idea to replace rubber drive shaft couplings while you are at it. They are the reason why the CV joints blow up I believe! Replacing the CV Joint is a right pain in the arse. You have to drop the diff in order to remove the half shaft and slowly raise it back whilst guiding in the new shaft. Mercedes recommend dropping the entire rear subframe to do this!
Don't try and do it without dropping the diff as you will be swearing constantly!
Ta. Mark
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Sigh!!! I have another question to add,will a W123 300D differential improve acceleration?Not sure if the differential gear ratios are reduced in comparison so I am left scratching my head.Anyone know if there is a DIY secret for making the 25% lock up to about 40% lock up just in case I stay with the stock differential if its limited slip?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Go to drivewire.com. I just replaced one axle on my 240D and just the boots on the other side. They give a one-year warranty and quickly replaced the newly rebuilt unit which had a "click" in it after installation. The replacement worked perfectly-and silently. Don't know about your MB but replacing the rubber CV boots was a snap and that side works fine as well.
Mine uses SAE 90 lubricant in the "pumpkin" but not sure about a non-slip unit.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

oooh how many of these oldtimers you got?
cp
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
1980 280E 1976 450SE 1979 450SEL 6.9 (may sell soon with only 79K miles) 1977 280E (parts bondo buggy) Soon to come 1975 450SEL ;Totally screwed up D jetronic and intake.The guy that bought it thought because he did a couple of oil changes in his life,he could master the W116,hah!The only good thing is its 100% rust and dent free Arizona MB!Asking price $400,problem is I have super house proud neighbors surrounding me and don't care to play musical cars in my drive way.
Mercedes sent to the grave by me 1977 280E 1979 280E 1969 220S 1978 450SE 1979 300D 1980 300SD 1984 190D(well sold really and ended up at wrecking yard)
I can keep this up with BMWs also!Alot of E21 and E30 went to the grave by my hand!
cp wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
sorry,missed the L on the 78 450SEL crusher bait!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Fanatic!!
I'm really interested in a w116 300SD, the guy who's restoring it is on vacation till September though, darn!
Are parts for w116 hard to get? The other option is a fully restored '82 w123 300D turbo, (both have engines restored) and I'm wondering if it's not better to take the w123 'cause so many of them were made..... but the w123 should FLY with the turbo though!
cp

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
If you can wait until September,go for the 300SD.Parts are really not that hard to find and not too expensive.The biggest problem I have with my W116s is having any room in my garage(butted up against the wall and still have to shimmey around the back squeezing between the garage door and bumper).Plus I would rather get in a wreck with a W116 over a W123!!!
cp wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yeh, I might do that, ol' Helmut is still driving strong at about 500,000KM so I can wait

Probably interchangeable with other benzes of similar vintage.

ha! :-) yeh, they is WIDE!

I bet. Is it true that the w116 is tougher than a w126 or have I already asked that?
cp
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Man, you sound like one of my sons when he was a teenager. You appear to be really hard on cars!

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Ernie Sparks wrote

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.