What to do? TD, SD, DT...

I'm in a bit of a quandary. I have an '81 300TD wagon. Mechanically it's in very nice shape. Reliable, fun to drive, starts well, etc. But, it's a rust bucket. Every time I open something up or remove a
panel, there is more rust-much of it right through the metal. The only way to get this thing permanently stable would be to strip it and have it dipped-which would cost more than I paid for the car. It looks like hell, but it is a daily-driver. Meanwhile, I have a '80 300SD with a near perfect body that is mechanically toast. It starts and drives, but the tranny has a lot of slip and the engine burns more oil than fuel. From the research I've done, the mechanics of the TD will not transfer into the SD (I do have a wrecked 300DT that the engine will fit-can't get a definitive answer on the tranny). So, my questions to you fine people: --Are the TDs getting valuable/rare enough that parting it out and trading the parts would be sacrilege? --Has anyone stripped and dipped a TD and thought it was worth it? --Is my info incorrect and can the TD drive-train go into an SD? I have three MBs with problems and would like to find a way to make one that is both mechanically sound and not an embarrassment to be seen in. Since I'm more comfortable with the devil I know, I would rather not sell all the cars and find another that has unknown problems. Any input would be appreciated. By the way, I'm in Oregon, if that matters. Thanks!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
These cars once were good cars but they're now 25 or more years old and have had it. I would suggest wiser uses of your time than on these dead end cars. There are lots of really nice cars in the world so don't waste time on old junks such as these. They're only collectors' cars in your yard.
OK, if its got to be this universe, I'd (i)re power the 300SD one way or another, buy a motor, (ii)remove the good motor and transmission from the rust bucket and junk its body and (iii) assess the wreck to see what exactly needs to be done to make it roadworthy for use, or sale, or sell it for junk. If you sell the rust bucket's motor and transmission it may as well be in the car so the buyer can test it - and get a free car with the motor!
That leaves you driving the best looking, 300SD, now with new power and you're rid of the junk.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
PT in OR wrote:

The only meaningful difference between the 300D and the TD are the bodies. Well, plus the tail lights and rear washer setup, but otherwise they're the same car. If you do part it out, I may be interested in a few bits. (I've got a '79 TD.) ;)

You might be able to get a grand or two for it rather than refinishing it. It's ridiculous, yes, but people are buying them for some reason.

If a 300D powertrain will go into the SD, the TD one will too.
-tom!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
The engine is same mechanically... just slightly different as in waterpump and maybe a few tiny things... but it should fit with no problem... You will have to use the engine mounts of the 300SD. Both turbo model so no power loss or decline. You will have to use 300SD exhaust manifold with turbo mechanisms... verify the intake part but the base motor is the same.
As far as tranny is concerned... 81 300TD has the same tranny as the 126 300SD of 81 to 85... this is 722.303. The 80 116 300SD as 722.120 tranny... and whichever year 300D you got should be 722.118... as long as 722.1xx match... that is all you need to know. the last two digit is like version number. Just make sure the vacuum modulator is of the original tranny in which case is the 300SD.
The tranny of the 300TD is more robust... so if you can fit that in, I'd try it. But if you are pulling both engine and tranny from your wrecked car that you know the tranny and engine is good... then stick with this pair so that you still got your rusty MB to drive in the meantime.
I would salvage as much of good part to make one good car. Then you can sell the rebuildable core to someone from the 300SD... and keep the other engine if you still need it. This is one big project...
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Some parts are. The cylinder head is unique to the wagons and semi valuable. If the rear suspension works right those bits are desirable. Other than that it's all 1234 chasis stuff.

If the rest of the car relaly is all sorted out then redoing the body may be an option. It depends on what you're willing to do or spend.

Which engines are turbocharged and which aren't? The 80 300SD - is this a 116 chassis or 126 chassis?
Pick which one you want most the wagon or the SD. Trade (or sell) the one you don't want and buy the "other half" to what you need. Either an SD drivetrain or a good wagon body.
--
Need Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Richard Sexton wrote:

What's interesting about the cylinder head? I just assumed that everything in front of the back seats was the same between the D and TD...
thx, -tom!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

There's a fittinmg for the hydraulic pump for the rear self levelling suspension that other diesels don't have.
--
Need Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Richard Sexton wrote:

Thanks everyone for your input. I think i'm gonna move the TD drive train into the SD. I love the way the SD looks, but the TD runs too well to let it go for what I'll get for it with a rotten body. Today it was 20 degrees and it started right up with no block warmer--just preglowed for 90 sec. I'll wait until it warms up a bit before I do the work. Maybe a perfect TD body will fall in my lap before then.... Thansk again. ~~P
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I had a 300d that was rear ended and totalled, but everything in front of the back seat was mint and I had just put in a new tranny. I bought a 1984 300d, drove it for a year and the tranny went, I had the engine, tranny, the airconditioner, along with the entire interior transferred from the 83 to the 84 and it looks and runs great! These cars are gems, no matter how old they are, dont just get rid of them if you can rebuild them at a reasonable cost. I paid about 2 grand and Im thrilled! I would have paid more for another used car and would have had no idea what I would have had to put in it to run as good as what I have now
"PT in OR" wrote
> I'm in a bit of a quandary. I have an '81 300TD wagon. > Mechanically > it's in very nice shape. Reliable, fun to drive, starts well, > etc. > But, it's a rust bucket. Every time I open something up or > remove a > panel, there is more rust-much of it right through the metal. > The > only way to get this thing permanently stable would be to > strip it and > have it dipped-which would cost more than I paid for the car. > It > looks like hell, but it is a daily-driver. > Meanwhile, I have a '80 300SD with a near perfect body that is > mechanically toast. It starts and drives, but the tranny has a > lot of > slip and the engine burns more oil than fuel. From the > research I've > done, the mechanics of the TD will not transfer into the SD (I > do have > a wrecked 300DT that the engine will fit-can't get a > definitive > answer on the tranny). > So, my questions to you fine people: > --Are the TDs getting valuable/rare enough that parting it out > and > trading the parts would be sacrilege? > --Has anyone stripped and dipped a TD and thought it was worth > it? > --Is my info incorrect and can the TD drive-train go into an > SD? > I have three MBs with problems and would like to find a way to > make one > that is both mechanically sound and not an embarrassment to be > seen in. > Since I'm more comfortable with the devil I know, I would > rather not > sell all the cars and find another that has unknown problems. > Any input > would be appreciated. By the way, I'm in Oregon, if that > matters. > Thanks!
--
Posted at author's request, using http://www.AutoBoardz.com interface
Articles individually verified to usenet standards. Visit URL to contact
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.