Clutch master cylinder

Oh you lucky man! A bitch of a job! Recommend you remove seat and steering wheel to improve access, unless you are only 4'6" tall and as flexible as a Russian gymnast!

There should be a small split-pin going through the end of the clevis pin at the top of the pedal, which you need to remove using long-nosed pliers - access to that area is bad enough on an automatic, but near- impossible on a manual. You can then push the clevis pin out sideways if you move the pedal just enough to relieve the pressure.

Getting it back in is even more frustrating!

In message , GrahamL writes

On a '78 mini, the pedal is connected to the push-rod fork of the master cylinder by a clevis pin, with a split-pin through the clevis pin to stop it falling out. It's a hell of a job to get the split-pin out. You'll need to take the air-intake hose off the heater to give you enough space. Try to get your hand in to straighten the split pin (which will probably cut the ends of your fingers), and then use a pair of long-nosed pliers to pull it out. Once the split-pin is out you can usually wiggle the pedal and push out the clevis pin. Putting it all back is, as Haynes used to say, the inverse process. Except that if anything, it's even more fiddly!

Ah! It is as bad as I thought then. Bugger!

Graham

The seats are out, the heater duct is out, and I will get the steering column out as well. I've managed to get a loop of wire throught the eye of the split pin which should make them easy to get out once I've straightened the pin. I might even fix a wire handle onto the boss end of the clevis pins to get them back in. Looks like I better get the Vallium in for tomorrow then.

Thanks Chris

Well, so much for the plans of mice and men. After battling for several more hours today, I finally found removing the heater box was the clue. One clevis pin was held by a split pin, the other by a spring clip. Spring clip's a better idea. Wrapping wire loop around the end of the clevis pin before withdrawing them completely saved me from losing the pins, by the way. G.

Its a Zen thing really.

Whilst lying there on your back, with the cross member digging in to your spine, after an hour or so, you develop a trance like state and you just 'think' the clevis pin out...

I have pondered a better replacement, or a panel in the bulkhead to allow easier access, but I haven't come up with anything yet.

I used an R clip when I replaced mine. Or simply bend one leg of the split pin so you don't have a mild steel knot to 'untie' next time.

Its a rite of passage I think.

Good luck

Peter,

Actually, the brake clevis pin was the real challenge. Getting the split pin out was a breeze but fluid has been leaking down the push rod for a long time and the clevis pin was rusted in. After soaking the clevis pin with some super-duper penetrating, oil I managed to sneek a drift in over the clutch pedal and then, after giving it a tickle with the blowtorch, hit it with a big hammer and out popped the clevis pin. So, not bad for a week's work really!

Another rite of passage ticked off.

G.

Come on they don't rust in with that much oil around - usually wear and gets caught on the steps. If its difficult I just use the multi grips to push it out.

This better be a bloody good mini your working on.

Rob, I might have exaggerated a bit. I should have said that I did it over the course of a week. But the little sod was really rusted in. I hope it will be a bloody good mini when I've finished and I'm having fun anyway.

G.