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intermittant electrics problem...

Hi all, just wondered if anyone might have any suggestion regarding a headlight problem I have had. Its proving difficult to trace as I cant reproduce it but it has happened twice now.

I have a 1991 cooper carb model (not RSP),

when I got the car one of the spots was broken so I replaced both (still using the existing wiring) on connection all the lights failed. I tried to trace along the loom and pushed on a few connecters and then everything worked fine.

4 months later having driven with the spots on and high beam I park up. When I return the headlights are not working, again tried the connectors no obvious problem, but then notice the radio has lost its memory too - I understand the radio memory and high beam flash are both on the same fuse so checked that but its fine, I reprogrammed the radio and (maybe by coincidence), the lights came back on... as soon as I pressed high beam flash the radio tripped and the lights went out and nothing would get them on again. No other lights were affected, just the headlights (dip and high and spots).

Three days later I return to sort the problem but the lights are working fine and I cant reproduce the fault? Any suggestion... please.

Regards, Gwilym.

Reply to
GG
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Sounds like the dreaded dirty contacts between the bullitt connectors and possibly the fuses, pull them all apart, clean and lubricate, then pull the fuses, and do the same, remember to clean the fuse connectors in the fusebox, finally check the engine to body earth, HTH Fitzy

Reply to
Fitzy

Hi, I preume you will be checking the connectors and fuses, but also, remove the fusebox from the bulkhead and check behind it, This area is prone to corrosion from the foam bulkhead liner that absorbs water.

Keith

Reply to
**

So if I am starting again, with a re-painted shell - including the bulkhead, what is the best way to stop this from happening?

Someone once mentioned an enclosed, super duper fuse box? Does anyone have any details please?

Is the bulkhead liner just for soundproofing? and is there another way of doing this without creating a big sponge?

Thanks

Peter

Reply to
Pedro

Custom made sealed wiring.

If you don't want to go to that trouble, buy new solder-on (not crimp) male bullet connectors and use brand new female bullet connector blocks.

Seal with vaseline or copper grease, then wrap the wiring completely with loom tape - it's a bit like non-sticky insulating tape and there's a knack to stretching, wrapping and tying off so it stays together.

Suitable fuse boxes, wire and loom tape are available from places like

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and
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- both places I've had great help from.

Yes

Try acoustic matting - the stick-on stuff. If you want to soundproof the bulkhead though, make sure you cover up every single hole that air can pass through - or sound will pass through too. If your windscreen seal doesn't leak, try doubling the amount of soundproofing in the dash area, and fit a full-width dashboard if you don't have one already.

erik.

Reply to
erik fishead

Star Man.

Thanks

Peter

Reply to
Pedro

Thanks for all the help everyone. The problem does reproduce now so seems like a good time to fix it properly before it fixes itself temporarily again! Now the headlights work until I switch to high beam or flash high beam at which point all the lights go out (and the radio memory resets), thankfully this time if I turn the lights on and off again the low beam works again. Could this be to do with the spots I fitted? I did use the original wiring. Regards, Gwilym.

Reply to
GG

Is there a relay for the spots? My 90' Mainstream Cooper got fitted with aftermarket spots. (although they've been removed now) and there's a little relay mounted on the off side inner wing in the engine bay.

Taffy

Reply to
Taffy

hiya a relay is really a must with spots they look complicated but are simple once you understand them.

fragged

Reply to
fragged

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