93 eclipse 2.0

recently put a 2.0 dohc n/a into my 93 eclipse and just got it running but i have a problem with it idleing way to high idle screw is set to the lowest possible but im still idleing at about 4000 rpm the motor is out of a 97 galant when i put it in the car the camshaft position sensor had the wrong plug on it so i took one of of a 93 and put it on could this be why im having this trouble ps checked all sensor on the throtle body and there good plese help if you can thanks scott

Reply to
scott
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Reply to
simpleton

Don't over look any gaskets you may have changed, are they the right ones. It sure sounds like a major vacuum leak.

Reply to
Nirodac

You should be able to hear a loud sucking sound (SHHHHHHH) if there's a vacuum leak. Another possibility is the MAP sensor connection. The Eclipse and Galant 4G63 DOHC PROBABLY have the same sensor (in a different air cleaner can) and the same 6 pin connection, but not necessarily. See what happens if you disconnect the MAP sensor. Vacuum leaks aside, disconnecting the MAP sensor will cause the engine to speed up and run a bit rough.

Another possibility, though unlikely, is the coolant temp sensor (usually on the thermostat housing) is not connected. Sensor output is driven by 5V not

12V, and if open circuit, will make the engine quite hard to start. If there's other issues, it may make the idle fast too.

Finally, check your ECU error code output, if any. If there's a problem code, this will point to the source.

Stewart DIBBS

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Reply to
Stewart DIBBS

checked eveey thing mentiond all good abudy of mine said that it could be the iac motor said it could read right butnot work right could be sticking does any one think this could be it???

Reply to
scott

Reply to
scott

ISC can definitely be a problem with this engine. I have a 92 and have had idle problems a couple of time related to dirty/sticking ISC motor. Also a bad or out of adjustment TPS will cause idle to be wrong.

ISC connector |---/\---| |1 2 3 | |4 5 6 | -------- Ohm meter Terminal 2 to 1: 28-33 ohms

2 to 3: 28-33 ohms 5 to 6: 28-33 ohms 5 to 4: 28-33 ohms Put 6 volts (any more will burn out motor) to 2, negative on 3. Motor should move smoothly. Put 6 volts on 5, negative on 6. Motor should move smoothly.

If any of the above is no good, you need a new ISC.

Remove ISC and clean pin port in throttle body. Also clean pin on ISC. Install with new o'ring seal. It need to have a perfect seal to control correctly. Make sure pin is retracted before reinstalling ISC or damage may occur.

For Idle check. Engine warm. Check throttle body accelerator cable adjustment is correct. All accessories and cooling fans off/not running. Park (auto), Neutral (manual). Ground ignition timing connector to set null timing. Accurate Tach connected. ISC disconnected. Start Engine, adjust idle speed screw to 700 +/- 50. If this target can not be reached (and ISC is known to be good and fully seated) then check idle position switch is working and is contacted/activated and also TPS output voltage is working and correct range. If an idle speed screw adjustment is made, the TPS will also need to be adjusted. Stop engine, adjust TPS, reconnect ISC and TPS and recheck idle speed.

ISC is self adjusting at each restart. No adjustments to be made here.

TPS connector - 2 possible types on 2.0 litre. |---/\---| | 1 2 | or |----/\----| | 3 4 | | 1 2 X 4 | |-------| |----------|

At throttle full closed TPS should read 3.5 Kohms to 6.5 Kohms pins 2 to 3 on square connector or pins 1 to 4 on long rectangle connector. While watching meter, slowly move throttle though full range. Resistance should move smoothly and gradually over range of 1100 to 5600 ohms. If not smooth and full range available, replace TPS. Check adjustment. Adjustment is made to voltage, not resistance. TPS must be connected to harness (all pins) using jumpers. Connect voltmeter to jumper also using pins 2 and 4 (either connector type) - negative is pin on green/black wire. Turn ignition key on (do not start engine) Voltage needs to be 0.48 - 0.52 volts. If out of adjustment, loosen lock screw and carefully rotate TPS to correct voltage adjustment.

Check idle position switch. Continuity check switch. Should be continuity (no resistance) with throttle at idle. Moving throttle just off idle, switch should open and have no continuity.

Note a faulty TPS should set code 14. The ECM will then use a default value for TPS.

Good luck.

Reply to
Mike Martin

Adjustment

Reply to
scott

Lets see if I under stand you correctly.

With tranie in neutral, and engine running, with clutch depressed fully, you cannot shift into 1st (or any other gear)?

Can you shift into any gear with the engine NOT running (with or without the clutch). Subject to the last question, can you start the engine with the clutch depressed and the tranie in 1st gear (set there before you started the engine). If so, does the engine jump, or attempt to move the car, (remember the clutch is still depressed) Just went through this with my sons Laser.

Nirodac

Reply to
Nirodac

Assuming the obvious, you have fluid in the system, 92 and 93 models had a problem with the clutch pedal shaft where the clutch master cylinder arm attatches (RHS of the brake pedal). Its just a simple double flat with an M8 nut. The master arm starts to move on the pedal shaft, and eventually wears its hole round, even if the M8 nut is tight.

Get under the dash and see if pushing the pedal actually moves the clutch master cylinder arm and rod. The good news is the the arm is easy to fix, by squeezing the arm in a vice till the hole is more or less squared again, then carefully filing it till it fits. The bad news is that getting the pedal assembly out is a pig.

Other options are that the slave cylinder is leaking, or the pressure plate has failed.

Stewart DIBBS

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Reply to
Stewart DIBBS

Reply to
scott

Yea, that sounds exactly like my sons problem. AFTER checking Stewart Dibbs post, if you still have the problem, then I would suggest you have a clutch problem, requiring a disassembly of the clutch housing. In my sons case, one of the four springs in the center of the actual clutch disk, broke in half. The two pieces fell down in between the pressure plate and the pressure plate release diaphragm spring. This prevented the throw bearing from moving forward and pressing the diaphragm spring (which was now jammed) which would have released the pressure on the clutch plate. The fix (still in progress) was to replace the clutch disc. I also replaced the pressure plate and the throw bearing, partly because it came in a "clutch kit". And partly cause the pressure plate looked like the springs bounced around a lot before getting jammed. The throw bearing felt a little rough also. The difference in price between just a clutch and the entire kit was only about $80.00. While I was at it I also inspected the boots on the CVJ's and they had cracks on them (not all the way through), so I took this opportunity (you have to remove the axles, to remove the clutch housing) to replace them also.

Good luck, and keep us posted

Nirodac

Reply to
Nirodac

ok how different is the clutch master cylynder on a 93 eclipse from the one on a 97 galant because its gotta be somthing with the hydrolic system i went ahead and got a new clutch kit for my car figured it couldnt hurt after i put it all on the car i still have the same problem stewart dibbs i looked at what you told me to look at under the dash even took the peddle assy out to check and it fits like a glove no play at all the only thing i can think of now is the hydro system isnt putting enough pressure to the slave cylynder hense my q above let me know what you guys think thanks in advance scott

Reply to
scott

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