97 Mitsubishi Galant DE Electrical Problems

I don't think that the alarm is the problem. Check your JBL amp, i think it's staying on when you shut the system down, due to the remote turn on section, failing.

DON'T ever disconnect the battery with the car running. There are other ways to test the alternator, that are less destructive. You can severely damage the electronics in your car by doing this.

I do agree that your amp may be the problem. Insert an ammeter inplace of the fuse, on the main power feed to your amp. if, when the ignition is off, you still have current flow, then that is your problem.

========== =========== (snipped and edited for diagnostic integrity) (subtitles added) snipped-for-privacy@netscape.net (Cyberdaddy) came in the room, sparks flying and test light in hand.......and put forth:

SYMPTOMS:

Recently I have returned to my parked car and my battery was completely dead.

Afterwards I jump started the battery and the car worked fine.

I drove it home, parked in the garage, set the security alarm, and the next morning the battery was dead again.

This event occured repeatedly throughout the week.

DIAGNOSTIC STEPS TAKEN:

So I took the battery to the shop to get it tested, which ended up having to be replaced.

So I replaced the new battery, cranked the ignition and the car started fine.

POST REPAIR RESULTS:

I drove the car for 30 minutes, parked the car, set the alarm and the same problems occured the next morning.

FURTHER DIAGNOSTICS:

tested the alternator by disconnecting the battery

the car ran fine without shutting off.

So I decided to disconnect my alarm and the amplifer to my subwoofers and jumpstart the battery again.

TEST RESULTS:

Now my battery is no longer being drained.

BUT NOW theres no power to my radio.

CRY FOR HELP:

CAN SOMEONE HELP ME OUT WITH THIS ONE?

FURTHER DIAGNOSTIC INPUT:

I have checked and replaced all the fuses, specifically those associated with the radio.

The battery that purhased is an Eveready that supports 525 Cold Cranking Amps and 650 Cranking Amps

Items into consideration: I have a 5V Pre-Out Eclipse CD player and a JBL amplifier ONLY running two 12 inch subwoofers.

Be advised that I have check the grounds wires and fuses for the radio and the amplifier.

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Borrow a DVOM.

Hook it up at the battery and set it to read amperage.

With the ignition OFF......

Reattach everything one component at a time untill you the meters amp reading changes significantly.

Once you isolate the line that's drawing the amperage, unhook the battery, set the meter to read ohms.

Go to the appropriate fuse for the line, take the fuse OUT, and check each terminal for continuity to ground.

If you HAVE continuity, trace down the short or run a new line.

If you DO NOT HAVE continuity at the fuse terminals, there is no short to ground!!!

and....most likely.... The power is staying on to the affected circuit, for whatever reason.

were you ever in the boy scouts?

A TRICK:

instead of doing all that...........

you could jest use a compass and run it over the outside of the wireing in the circuitry to isolate which component had juice running to it.

electrical current running through a wire produces a magnetic field around, and outside, the insulation of the wire. This will cause the needle on the compass to deflect.

if a wire is shorted to ground....the needle will deflect at the shorts location.

if a circuit has current .....the needle will deflect when the compass is passed over it.

~:~ MarshMonster =========== ===========