Re: At what point does a car become not worth keeping?

In news:YhO_b.391899$xy6.2203355@attbi_s02, Crunchy Cookie being of bellicose mind posted:

I thought I'd get a little cost/benefit analysis discussion going. > I've always thought the best used-car deals were ones between, oh, > 2 and 8 years old. If it's too new, you might as well buy new, > but if it's too old, you're just asking for trouble, right? > What's the average (range of) mileage where cars start konking out > to a higher expense than their value? Most people seem to > casually say between 100K and 200K; most consider 200K to be a > long life. The engine and transmission rebuilds are the only > really huge items, right? How much does rebuilding those cost? > Anything else to watch out for? > And is it me, or do Japanese car alternators die really easily?

Lots depends on where you live. If the used car is 10 yrs old and rusting, a sound driveline may become immaterial.

WHEN you can get a decent used car REAL CHEAP, then you can put more money into it. But you better have mechanical skills.

My most satisfactory ownerships have been to buy new .... do as much as the preventative maintenance as possible (don't over estimate your skills either!) and then drive it 'til the wheels get wobbly.

Reply to
Philip®
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Even if you do work on it yourself, it will eventually start nickel and diming you to death. I had the misfortune of owning an '86 Ford Escort GT. Nothing like replacing the alternator and starter every 6 months, what a steaming pile of dung that was... My 2 cents is that you keep it as long as you're happy with it. Granted, it WILL get to a point where it's not cost effective to keep fixing it, because you'll never get out of it what you have in it. My father in law has an '85 Honda Civic station wagon that looks like HELL, but it gets upper 40s as far as mpg goes, and other than a short due to a flood we had here last summer, hasn't given him any major problems. I'd be willing to be he'll STILL have that same bashed up wagon in another 10 years, because he loves that car. I guess it all depends on what your heart tells you...

Reply to
Mike Ilk

Have to agree with you. This point can be argued till they invent a car that runs on air. Everybody's opinion is different, and everybody's circumstance are also different. Then there is a persons ability around things mechanical. I've heard of people that have purchased two hundred dollar rust buckets, spent $15,000 restoring it, then having it be worth less than $10,000. They wanted a particular car for a particular reason. If your happy doing that for a daily driver, then price isn't an issue. I do part with cars (wife variable) and even then, there are people that want to buy them. The one variable left out of this thread, is age. Twenty year old males love to work on there cars, 65 years only want to drive them. That also has to be factored into the equation. Then there are a lot of women that don't care, they just want wheels that are reliable. Like my wife, I explained to her what the oil pressure gauge was for and what to watch out for. She thought for the longest time, that the letters on the oil pressure gauge (PSI) meant "Put Some In" !!!

Nirodac.

Reply to
Nirodac

In news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Brian Bergin being of bellicose mind posted:

Nonsense. Watch Destruction Derby sometime. The PREFERRED cars are ... full sized sedans from the1970's and earlier ... cars WITHOUT crumple zones. You engine does not end up in your lap. Good Grief.

Reply to
Philip®

"Philip®" spake unto the masses in news:GTQ0c.14735$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net:

I figure the insurance companies are in cahoots with the automakers.

Ever notice how a lot of cars are scrapped with minimal damage these days? It's the CRUMPLE ZONE. It's VERY expensive to try to pull one of those back into shape, therefore the car goes to the crusher, and GM, etc. makes another new sale (no repaired used-car left behind)!

Reply to
Tegger®

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