Any synthetic will give you gains over conventional oil. Thats why I run Mobil 1 or Valvoline synthetic. Valvoline synthetic is repackaged mobil
1, which ever cost less I get.
If you think Royal Purple is good, you should try Torco MPZ. I put it in my truck once, and I swear I was getting 10% more mileage. On the next oil change to Mobil 1, it went back to normal. I'd like to use Torco, but at $10 a quart, it's not worth the extra mileage. I use it in my Racecars; Drag, Drift, Auto-X, etc.
Technically, The difference is what weight you use. If your V-8 runs on
20w50, and you decide to put in 5W50. You'll definitely see an improvement, dino or synthetic. All Synthetic motor oil is the same. When comparing synthetic to synthetic, its the stabilizers used. Most commercial synthetics, use Zinc as a stabilizer. Torco uses MPZ instead of Zinc. MPZ has less friction, than Zinc. As a matter of fact most Top Fuelers use Torco, even though they are sponsored by another oil company, and they pay for the Torco oil.Same applies for the Holden Racing Team - Mobil1 advertising all over their car, but what do those monster Commodore racers run?
Fuchs multigrade.
Nick.
improvement,
improvement,
Really.
Why would that be?
Falling asleep through Stephen Bigelow's post...
Different containers of oil in your garage?
W does not equal weight, it stands for winter. The point he was trying to make that the thinner the oil the less it slugs down the engine. (0w30 is thinner than 10w30.) The problem is if you go to thin the oil just spills off the bearing surface which may not lubricate and valve noise will also increase. Its best to stick with the grade of oil rated for your car and climate.
Really.
And all this time, I thought 30=30!
The first # refers to the base weight of the oil. That is the weight it is always. It has additives that make it perform like a 30 weight.A 10w30 is a
10 weight always,but performs like a 30 weight. If you want a straight weight oil you would buy a 30w only.Which would be a thickerbased oil. I have always heard of 5 weight oils. And I have seen the ones rated 0w something,but always have wondered how you would have a zero weight oil.I asked our distributor about this.He has a hard time also with this. He thought that it must be at somewhere under 5 so that they could call it a
No.
That is the weight it is
No.
It has additives that make it perform like a 30 weight.A 10w30 is a
That doesn't make a lick of sense.
If you want a straight
Heard of?
And I have seen the ones rated 0w
That's not a oil distributor, I hope.
Your all MAD I Tell YOu MAD MAD MAD. Anyone putting in oil aditive or synthetic motor oil to try and squeeze a couple extra horses is a lunitic. First off your going to kill that engine much mucg sooner then it would if you hadnt screwed with it, secondly...your NOT gaining Aything. have you ever seen that little computer box in your engine compartment? what do you suppose it does? it keeps the engine running at optimum performance based on what the mitsubishi engeniers deemed is perfect for that engine. if you increase the engine weight or decrease it , the computer is going to compensate for it. I also used to work at a stereo shop, and we had customers wo had convinced themselvs that this moster cable speaker wire sounded so much better than regular wire. the truth is there is no difference. But since these customes had just laid out $200.00 for copper wire, of course thier little brains told them it sounded better. i suspect the same type of self-pyscho-hypnosis is happening here.
i just love oil threads......
"Anyone putting in oil aditive or synthetic motor oil to try and squeeze a couple extra horses is a lunitic."
why? because you do not understand it?
"have you ever seen that little computer box in your engine compartment? what do you suppose it does?"
yeah, mine's kinda' hacked: a 1995 ecu in a 1997 car, controlled by a dell laptop and dsm-link software but it's not in the engine compartment and it has nothing to do with oil........
"if you increase the engine weight or decrease it , the computer is going to compensate for it."
total nonsense! i have an aluminum flywheel, aluminum underdrive pulley and have both balance shafts removed (20 pounds or so lighter than stock.) and the ecu couldn't give a rat's ass. what sensor reports engine weight to the ecu? i don't believe this is an obdII function.
"I also used to work at a stereo shop, and we had customers wo had convinced themselvs that this moster cable speaker wire sounded so much better than regular wire. the truth is there is no difference. But since these customes had just laid out $200.00 for copper wire, of course thier little brains told them it sounded better. i suspect the same type of self-pyscho-hypnosis is happening here."
that's because monster sucks...try cardas, straightwire or audioquest for better results.
techie you are not.......
"All Synthetic motor oil is the same. When comparing synthetic to synthetic, its the stabilizers used. Most commercial synthetics, use Zinc as a stabilizer. Torco uses MPZ instead of Zinc. MPZ"
this is nonsense......zinc is not a stabilizer. zinc's only role in oil is to provide protection from metal to metal contact in event of failure of the actual oil film. (gee, i wonder what the "Z" in mpz stands for?)
improvement,
OK Simpleton....With your fancy ass dell attached to your Hacked car's computer...how many more horses are you kickin out?
5 maybee 10? you declined to even mention it. Lets suppose just for a second that not EVERYONE is hacking thier cars computers and try sticking to the topic at hand. Wich was OIL. Not hacked Car computers & not Cars that need a friggin laptop on the passenger seat to even operate it. My claim is simple, you are NO way gonna kick out any more Horses by using JUST some cheap ass oil additive. at best you can do is with a synthetic oil is skip the length of miles between oil changes. or maybee even protect your cylinder boars from when your engine knocks too much. By the way, the Oil's thickness is pretty much a mute point once the engine has warmed up. no oil in the world is gonna increace your horsepower. and i invite you to show me a real website to prove otherwise.First of all son, you spelt bores wrong. :-P
But I agree with you, oil should be chosen for its protective value, not some false claim that it can increase your horsepower. If you really want to increase your power, do some *actual* engine modification. Good starts for the novices are the car's intake system and exhaust system.
Nick.
compartment?
Yep. But lets talk about oil.
Yes, that's why a LOT of high performance cars come with it from the factory. Change interval and "knocking"
A tribologist, I see....
Why? So you can argue about things you know nothing about?
"OK Simpleton....With your fancy ass dell attached to your Hacked car's computer...how many more horses are you kickin out? 5 maybee 10? you declined to even mention it."
the engine builder is telling me 400 hp to the wheels on pump gas. he showed me some dyno charts of another mitsu when i picked up my short block. the turbo has dyno'd over 500whp but on race fuel and more boost.
" Lets suppose just for a second that not EVERYONE is hacking thier cars computers and try sticking to the topic at hand. Wich was OIL. Not hacked Car computers & not Cars that need a friggin laptop on the passenger seat to even operate it."
well, to be honest many of the regular posters here who come to the aid of newbies such as yourself, do have hacked/tweaked cars and the dell is only out when datalogging. with respect to remaining on topic, it was you who wandered off the path........ what does any of the following quoted material have to do with oil? " have you ever seen that little computer box in your engine compartment? what do you suppose it does? it keeps the engine running at optimum performance based on what the mitsubishi engeniers deemed is perfect for that engine. if you increase the engine weight or decrease it , the computer is going to compensate for it. I also used to work at a stereo shop, and we had customers wo had convinced themselvs that this moster cable speaker wire sounded so much better than regular wire. the truth is there is no difference. But since these customes had just laid out $200.00 for copper wire, of course thier little brains told them it sounded better. i suspect the same type of self-pyscho-hypnosis is happening here."
"My claim is simple, you are NO way gonna kick out any more Horses by using JUST some cheap ass oil additive."
no your claim was this: "First off your going to kill that engine much mucg sooner then it would if you hadnt screwed with it, secondly...your NOT gaining Aything."
synthetic oil will kill your engine sooner appears to be your claim.
"best you can do is with a synthetic oil is skip the length of miles between oil changes. or maybee even protect your cylinder boars from when your engine knocks too much."
uh, wrong.....
"no oil in the world is gonna increace your horsepower." a reduction in the coefficient of friction in the lubricant results in a decrease in frictional losses within the engine, it's pretty clear.
go to royal purple's web site and look at the dyno charts published in the oil comparison.
dude, you're just lost......
compartment?
I never said the oil made horsepower. However it can increase you bhp by improving the engines mechanical efficiency.
CB
Ten bucks says Techie is reading this thread through one of the non-Mitsubishi newsgroups. :)
Many dyno tests have proven the horsepower gains from Royal Purple. Whether it's worth it or not, eh.
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