anyone know the IC dimensions on a 1.7TD astra?

100 x 150 x 560 (WxDxL)

A Sierra Cosworth one is a similar size to that. Pretty sure is has 3" inlet and outlet but that's easily sorted with some Samco hose.

Cosworth ones are too big. ISTR that while they are short enough they=20 are too long.

--=20 Carl Robson "Sorry Sir the meatballs are orf" (The poster formerly known as Skodapilot)

Did by a cheap fleabay brand new intercooler, but it looks like it might be more hassle than it is worth. Can always fleebay it again, see if I can get the £40 I paid for it back.

Inlet and out are different sized. One faces one side of the IC, other end faces other. It has pressed plastic tanks.

Ideally I could do with something

100 x 150 x 560 (WxDxL)

Cooling Area (core) 128 x 340

Which is the same size as the fleebay one. Doesn't matter whether the inlets are at the same end like an R5 GTT or a Saab 900, or cross flowing like a Volvo 7** or Saab 9000, as long as it isn't too long.

ideally inlets would be about 52-55mm.

Or anyone know roughly what it is going to cost to get alloy end tanks welded into the core that I have?

Realy does get too hot now (causing boost drop after crawling in traffic, doesn't really recovers for about 1/2 an hour), and I've noticed that quite a few of the fins are getting bent with time.

Might as well go for the full conversion and use 2.25" exhaust pipe and heatwrap for the piping with sFs or Samco for the bends.

If I can find something secondhand (scrappy or fleabay) should be able to do it cheap enough.

-- Carl Robson "Sorry Sir the meatballs are orf" (The poster formerly known as Skodapilot)

What about water injection, there are some kits on ebay for arround £150. Might be a better bet?

Better except you have to remember to keep filling them, and if you want=20 them to be totally effective, run them on a thermister, you they only=20 run on high temps and/or certain boost levels to keep detonation down.

Equally, I could install an IC spray bar like scoobs have, but, again it=20 needs to be kept full, and needs somewhere to put the tank.

I do have a couple of options, but neither of them is the best.

One is a boot mounted tank, and running hoses and wiring for the pump=20 from front to back (same with WI), other is move the battery to the=20 back, then site the tank where the battery used to be, but then I can't=20 make a straight intake to a direct cold feed.

And WI or Spraybar both add weight to the car, the other two options are=20 probably easier to perform.

1) Small pusher fan ontop of the IC inside the scoop, running from a=20 relay operated by and ignition source to arm it, and a thermoswitch to=20 trigger it.

Downside. The fan itself will block airflow when travelling at speed=20 when it isn't running, and help raise intake temps, and the IC is still=20 over the top of a hot engine. When it is running it will sound like a=20 hoover.

2)FMIC. The intake path will be longer, so lag will be increased, but=20 with proper lagging (something you can't do to the FMIC) temps will be=20 substanially lower, and the IC isn't right ontop of a hot engine=20 anymore, and the intake scoop on the bonnet can be used for getting cool=20 air into the engine now.

--=20 Carl Robson "Sorry Sir the meatballs are orf" (The poster formerly known as Skodapilot)

is the IC I ebayed.

As you can see, while one end is a nice nig diameter that I could do something with, it faces the wrong way, and the other end which faces the right way is a lot smaller.

I supposed I could use it to reduce pressure drop, but the restriction will cause more lag.

Sizes are

100 x 150 x 560 (WxDxL)

Cooling Area (core) 128 x 340

with in/out bores of Bore Sizes 32mm & 52mm (I.D)

52mm is perfect, but 32 is far too restrictive.

I really think, that to make use of that IC would be overly expensive to get the end tanks made up in Aluminium.

It would be far cheaper to Fleabay it back, and find something else second hand.

biggest problem is, I have the standard ST 185 bumper.

has far less space for an FMIC than the Carlos Sainz version although fitted with a top mounted liquid charge cooler, is almost designed from the off to take an FMIC. Only optin to get a decent FMIC in is to either find a CS bumper and support bar at seceral hundred quid, or take a hole saw to the standard bumper.

The controller i`ve got will operate water injection on boost and temp and warns of low water. (turbodisplay.com). Bloke who makes them says he will be putting some sort of mapping to control a valve. Personally i think it may be more effort than its worth as i want water injection to prevent detonation in extreme situations. (Although it probally will allow loads of water to be saved) Although the wideband lambda and EGT is tempting! :o)

Better except you have to remember to keep filling them, and if you want them to be totally effective, run them on a thermister, you they only run on high temps and/or certain boost levels to keep detonation down.

Equally, I could install an IC spray bar like scoobs have, but, again it needs to be kept full, and needs somewhere to put the tank.

I do have a couple of options, but neither of them is the best.

One is a boot mounted tank, and running hoses and wiring for the pump from front to back (same with WI), other is move the battery to the back, then site the tank where the battery used to be, but then I can't make a straight intake to a direct cold feed.

And WI or Spraybar both add weight to the car, the other two options are probably easier to perform.

1) Small pusher fan ontop of the IC inside the scoop, running from a relay operated by and ignition source to arm it, and a thermoswitch to trigger it.

Downside. The fan itself will block airflow when travelling at speed when it isn't running, and help raise intake temps, and the IC is still over the top of a hot engine. When it is running it will sound like a hoover.

2)FMIC. The intake path will be longer, so lag will be increased, but with proper lagging (something you can't do to the FMIC) temps will be substanially lower, and the IC isn't right ontop of a hot engine anymore, and the intake scoop on the bonnet can be used for getting cool air into the engine now.

-- Carl Robson "Sorry Sir the meatballs are orf" (The poster formerly known as Skodapilot)

I was considering water injection if I do end up going with the megasquirt-n-spark extra.

there is code in the megatune software when using the "-Extra" option to operate the water injection instead of the second bank of 4 injectors, and to control boost using a solenoid.