coil/ignition module query

You can.

It will spark when you disconnect. Its highly doubtful its a failed coil because they die very slowly. They start to misfire under load, or on boost/nitrous for eg. If this is the case then smaller plug gaps will make it run cleanly again. But obviously thats not the real solution!

Personally I would check for damp in the bunches of connectors on the injection/ignition system. Have you pressure washed it lately or driven a lot in really wet weather?

You need to get a multimeter and measure the resistance on the coil on both the LT and HT side then compare it to what it should be.

I'd also check the rotor arm too.

John it hasnt been out period let alone seen any wet :)

it managed 3 dry miles last night completely perfect running then died

Pug ran perfect died( by which i mean it just cut out coasted to side of road and then refused to start. she gives a few pitiful attempts at starting but wont so much as turn with any passion :(

anyone know if it will work putting 12v's and a neg feed onto the coil? or do i need the scabby ignition module to get it to work

if so i'm sure i can dury rig something to get her mobile for some fun

LT HT?

maybe i'm a bit thick but do yo mean measure across the coil itself?

it only has a pos and a neg?

rotor arm is again split new tried 2 last night just to be sure both split new :)

god i love owning a rusty old hot-hatch again

A faulty coil does not usually show any resistance problems. It dies because sometime in its past somone ran it with too big a plug gap, or weith a lead disconnected etc. Instead of sparking externally it punches holes in the internal insulation. Now its got an easy path to jump next time things get a bit difficult. The only real way to test this is to see how far a spark jumps. Less than 15mm and I would bin it.

You CAN just test with a 12v pos / 0v neg but be careful because lots of cars use a ballast resistor and the coil really runs at 7 to 8 volts. It gets the full 12 only when cranking the motor which actually drops the 12v to about 9 during this period due to the batteries internal resistance and the starter load..

Had exactly the same symptoms on the first Carlton I had many moons ago - it had already had new plugs and leads, and I replaced the king lead, dizzy cap

• rotor arm, coil, even took the coil back to get a replacement one, thinking that was faulty, and in the end I took out the crank sensor and cleaned it up with abrasive paper (literally a 2 minute job) and it fired straight up and ran spot on ever since.

So I'd try that!

Yep...and the bit you stick the king lead into.

LOL...makes life interesting.

crank sensor pffft

tis a 20yr old 205

were crank sensors even invented in 1985 :)

Well, my 1988 Carlton had one, and I'm pretty sure that that was the same engine that was used in Mk2 Cavaliers and stuff.

As Burgerman says, yes. Apply 12v across the low tension terminals (making sure the king lead's pointing to the chassis and not your wrist watch). The second you remove the current, the field in the coil will collapse and cause it to spark.

I have a funny feeling this beast will run on switched negative. Check all earths for corrosion and make sure the ECU isn't wet.