Launch technique?

When you fire off the traffic lights, start of a track day or go for a quarter mile run, how do you control your launch?

I was reading an article or two, some people say its best to start in 2nd... although I imagine that applies to extremely powerful rwd/fwd cars.

Redline it and drop the clutch?

Reply to
REMUS
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You won't have one for long, if you keep doing that.

Reply to
JackH

Not for me, unless hooooge number 11s are on the requirement list.

3500 rpm, find bite, holding brake and throttle, mash throttle, not-quite-dump clutch, change at 6200.

Less than 3500 and risk bogging / dropping off max boost (2500 is fine but harder to do). More than 3500 seems a waste as you've got to be slower with the clutch to control wheelspin.

Reply to
Tim S Kemp

Trackday isn't a race so you start as a normal road car would. The rest is down to experience on the particular car. Quarter miles in the Westfield I always start in 2nd and that should hit

65ish before I need to change gear, still have to be careful with the throttle as it will still spin the wheels starting in 2nd. Need to build a geatbox with decent ratios so I can use 1st and get a quick change back to 2nd rather then the dogleg 2nd to 3rd.

No.

Reply to
Homer

you redline and drop the clutch especially in a FWD car you'll be spinning and going no where!

i've only ever launch the MR2 turbo hard once or twice 4k RPM and just off the bite with no handbrake (need a flat surafce for that) and basically drop and be ready to slip it in second, easy on an MR2 as it's RWD and the weight is over the rear end so even when you don't try you can get off the line before most cars. the MK1 was pretty similar, launched that hard a lot and the clutch just took it :)

Reply to
Vamp

Wrong again by by the way...

Dumping the clutch lets the tyres take the wear, and act as the clutch. Slipping it wears it out at best and overheats it and buggers it at worst.

Fast launch goes like this at the strip. Burn out (race tyres only, no or dubious benefit on street tyres) Go to line, and just before nail it with some front brake on and leave a thick black stripe of rubber for about 30 to 50 yds. Reverse back into it, with your low psi (3 to 5 on two wheels) tyre sat in your own melted rubber. Hold revs about 5 to 7 thousand and be ready to smoothly/release the majority of the clutch, in about 0.3 secs, once wheelspin starts (there should be hardly any, just enough to leave a black line and stop the clutch doing all the work) release the rest, hook second, hit nitrous, use rear brake to control rpm below 10,000 and more to keep front on floor (ish) as required, now 2 secs after setting off you are out of first gear, at 60, with a bit of sideways, slight wheelie, and your foot (rear brake) keeping power back with the rear brake! Hit shifter button, throttle and nitrous still flowing, try to keep front down, by hitting stage two nitrous so tyre slips more at the now low (8500) revs. As speed increases (2 secs later 100+ in 4secs) the torque effect drops away and wheelspin slows again and the front comes up again, next gear third! Repeat to 5th and 170 in

8.something... Get normal vision back slow down. Check for engine smoke, oil, tyre probs as you slow.

Thats a bike but similar in car but less so. Same stuff applies. Grip, cool engine, sticky launch pad, anger! (with management)

Reply to
Burgerman

Yes you are - again.

Assuming that they're s**te.

Again wrong.

Reply to
Conor

ME.

Stick in 1st. Left foot on brake. Foot hard on accelerator keeping torque convertor spinning nicely at stall speed. Amber light comes on, take foot off brake and keep right firmly planted. Damned near perfect green.

Reply to
Conor

You realise he's talking about bikes, and he does know what he's talking about there...

Reply to
Tim S Kemp

IF you mean a burn out has dubious benefit on street tyres, then burgerman is right, street tyres gain grip from heat in the carcass, which is best gained through tread movement. Wheelspin/burnouts just wear the tyres and the heat is too localised, if in doubt go and ask any of the Toyo Saloon Racers. Drag slicks have very thin carcasses designed to be heated this way.

If you didn't, I'll get my coat now.

-- R

Reply to
R

MIRA roadtest guys hold the clutch that bit higher, with the handbrake ON, then release it as they launch, a bit like holding an auto against the brake. They reckon it's worth a tenth on the figures.

-- R

Reply to
R

ouch...

Reply to
Tim S Kemp

Depends what car you've got. My mk1 MR2 (with some decent tyres) would not spin its tyres with a high rpm takeoff - the drivetrain would take it all. Not good for the clutch at all!

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

Thats why I had to change the clutch, you bloody hooligan :)

To update you I sold it to a mate, who then found 2 big holes in the floor. Oooops. He's also near enough finished the gearbox off, and is now talking s/c upgrades.... Whether if it'll actually get to that is another matter as he's already got a mk2 Escort in the garage waiting to be done up!

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

Not to mention the fact that 99% of bike clutches are 'wet', so don't burn up like a dry cluch does.

So, it's completely irrelevent to this thread.

Reply to
SteveH

Ah, right.

If so, what's the relevance to the original question asked, and points there after raised then, assuming that is indeed his defence, and not you assuming something again - has REMUS quietly gone off and become a drag strip afficiendo favouring a bike for the purposes of travelling up one, all of a sudden?

I think we need to know.

Reply to
JackH

Now he's going to have to ask what a 'line locker" is.

Reply to
Peter Hill

Like that will work on a POS VW Golf. They is FWD and all you do is burn up the brakes and clutch.

Should have got the 200SX, they will do it with a line locker cos they is right wheel drive.

Reply to
Peter Hill

They certainly do, and it applies to cars equally.

Reply to
Burgerman

"Launch technique?"...

REMUS appears to be someone looking to launch his road car, now and again, whereas your posts of late amount to someone who's driving licence is apparently on borrowed time, and all I can say is, carry on. :-)

'yet more abuse / insults'.

Keep up the good work, anyway. There's no point in me flaming or insulting you - you're doing a sterling job of illustrating to everyone just what sort of person it is you are, without the need for anyone to poke you with sticks to get the usual reaction.

*applause*
Reply to
JackH

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