Needs some exhaust advice from the masters.

Noticed over the last few months I've been getting a tinny buzzing noise coming through the dash, at between 2500 and 3500 revs. Disappears after

3.5k.

Been told it sounds like the baffles of the centre box have collapsed and it is resonance. Sounds about right, definatley, something resonating, but I thought it was something on the firewall.

But the last few days, I've noticed that it has been only making 6PSI most of the time, and only occasionally making 7 or 8 in 4th and 5th. (Should make 6 PSI in first and 2nd and 8 in 3rd upwards)

Tonight coming home from work, it all felt a little bit flat, and defiantly noiseier than normal, but not from anywhere in particular.

Thought I would try a little test. Started it up (Still a little warm). Covered both tail pipes, first with a pair of builders gloves, then with a piece of wood big enough to cover both pipes, pressed on hard.

Engine kept running as normal, exhaust sounded muffled, but not even the slightest hint of stalling.

I do have a slight blow on the exhaust manifold, but that closes when warm anyway, and if just one cylinder is leaking at the manifold, you would expect it to stumble on the still sealed cylinders.

Does it sound like a big rotten hole somewhere in the exhaust?

MOT is due at end of June, so I'm starting to get sorted, the stuff that is likley to cause problems, and the exhaust seems the main one.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar
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Got any way of getting underneath it? A hole that big must be quite visible surely. But then, you'd think it would be very loud with a hole that big.

Hmmmm.....

Reply to
DanTXD

The patch for the exhuast is a bit twisted and a real git to get to. But I can see most of the length. there is a flexi section in it (roughly the size of an overbraided CAT), that is my reckoning of the most likely leak.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

Sounds like a bunch of small holes. Manifold leak also sounds like a problem. There is seals where the turbo meets the manifold and where the turbo meets the exhaust. Are they blowing?

Fraser

Reply to
Fraser Johnston

I figured either lots of slightly larger than pin holes, or a split=20 welded seam, or even the braided flexi section (looks like the CAT on=20 most cars) breaking apart it's braiding.

It's Manifold to head. Ideally turbo needs to come off to get to the=20 lower row of studs. They occasionally work loose. Re-torquing them=20 strips them.

I spotted, over winter when things were coldest at first startup, if=20 revved a little from cold, there would be a small puff of smoke from=20 under the manifold from arround cylinder 2 or 3 and could be seen just=20 for a couple of seconds until it started to warm, accompanied by a=20 crack/spitting sound, which also stopped as soon as the smoke did. Most=20 likely a loosened stud causing a blow by in the gasket, which means a=20 new gasket. Also possibly a cracked manifold as they can crack under 2=20 or 3. Cost to repair is likely to be =A380 of manifold (if not blown the=20 metal turbo ones can be re-used)+new studs+maybe new manifold =A3250.

It is possible to get an off the shelf ST185 manifold in stainless that=20 comes with all the gaskets, and new turbo bolts but not studs, for =A3220,= =20 but as there were 7 and 9 stud ST185 heads, the the alternator bracket=20 may need "Adapting" to fit the manifold, with two holes not being used,=20 and the top mount IC "Adapting" because it was designed to go with the=20 Carlos Sainz/RC chargecooler setup, or switch to a front mount IC.

I'm investigating what a full system, downpipe, and manifold would cost=20 from Tube-torque and Hayward and Scott, as well as what=20 ExhaustUK/Powerflow can sort me out, the other option is an manifold at=20 =A3220, ebay down pipe =A390 (both normal ebay items at =A3250 and =A390 bu= t the=20 seller is a club member and does them cheap for members and orders them=20 direct from SS autochrome in the US) and =A3330 for a Blueflame 2.5"=20 system with club members discount(they make the Mongoose system for=20 Mongoose).

--=20 "Sorry Sir, the meatballs are Orf" The poster formerly known as Skodapilot.

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Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

That's the way to go.

As long as the cost isn't *too* mental, then that's the route I'd be taking. You'll be pissing about forever trying to sort things out otherwise - complete stainless system should last for the rest of the car's life, with no issues ever again !

Reply to
Nom

I've got a mate with a manifold who would probably sell it. Shipping might be a bitch though. Email me for details.

Fraser

Reply to
Fraser Johnston

I can sort out various options. There are going to be some coming up in the UK.

Pretty damned cheap too.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

Well I got a price back from H&S, just waiting for one from Tube Torque. H&S is a little too rich for my blood. =A3800 for a manifold and they need to build on the car as they don't have= =20 the pattern. =A3275 for the system (back and mid box), =A3225 turbo elbow/cat replacement pipe (decat pipe),=20 =A3450 front pipe (Sits between the system and the decat contains a flexi= =20 braided section where the CAT would normally be).

For less than that I could import an AUSSIE brand system.

I can get a Blueflame 2.5" system with single tailpipe and including a=20

2.5" flexi for =A3330(with either fitting or delivery) I can get a 3" (including a downsize restrictor for the standard system=20 and avoid spikes) decat pipe for =A390 including shipping (normally on=20 ebay for =A3120 but he is a club member JJ-Jap on ebay) And he is offering a manifold for =A3220 but ideally needs an FMIC or=20 "alteration" to fit a standard top mount (but he gets them from SS=20 Autochrome and they show one on their site fitted with a standard=20 intercooler). He is also planning a very tasty 3" Jap style stainless system for=20 somewhere between =A3250 and =A3350 shipping included.

It's just a matter if time scale. but using his manifold, and downpipe and a Blueflame I could get the lot=20 for =A3640, cheaper than the H&S manifold on it's own.

All stainless all lifetime warrenty. If his system works out as cheap as he hopes, I could be looking at=20 knocking the best part of a =A3100 off.

Unless Tube Torque bring something special out of the bag, that will=20 probably be the way I will go.=20

Just waiting for a refund of the $215 for the Exhaust Depot 2.5"=20 downpipe, that 935motorsports.com have failed to restock, and then for=20 them to ship my whiteline handling kit (front wishbone bushes, rear=20 radius arm bushes, front RB bushes, uprated adjustable ARB and rear ARB=20 bushes) Frazer will confirm how good Whiteline stuff is.

Oh and I have a set of DBA disc brakes on a boat from AUS somewhere, to=20 go with the new Ceramic Akebono pads, going to fit them all at once=20 myself.

I could splurge and get a Blitz Nur Spec R, but at =A31k and the need to=20 find a flexi section, too pricey.

All these will either open up more power, or make it better to use the=20 power I already have. Next stop, manual boost controller, and an FMIC=20 conversion, already have the IC, ebayed for it last year just haven't=20 gotten round to sorting the piping yet.

--=20 Carl Robson "Sorry Sir the meatballs are orf" (The poster formerly known as Skodapilot)

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Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

Well I got a price back from H&S, just waiting for one from Tube Torque. H&S is a little too rich for my blood. £800 for a manifold and they need to build on the car as they don't have the pattern. £275 for the system (back and mid box), £225 turbo elbow/cat replacement pipe (decat pipe), £450 front pipe (Sits between the system and the decat contains a flexi braided section where the CAT would normally be).

For less than that I could import an AUSSIE brand system.

I can get a Blueflame 2.5" system with single tailpipe and including a

2.5" flexi for £330(with either fitting or delivery) I can get a 3" (including a downsize restrictor for the standard system and avoid spikes) decat pipe for £90 including shipping (normally on ebay for £120 but he is a club member JJ-Jap on ebay) And he is offering a manifold for £220 but ideally needs an FMIC or "alteration" to fit a standard top mount (but he gets them from SS Autochrome and they show one on their site fitted with a standard intercooler). He is also planning a very tasty 3" Jap style stainless system for somewhere between £250 and £350 shipping included.

It's just a matter if time scale. but using his manifold, and downpipe and a Blueflame I could get the lot for £640, cheaper than the H&S manifold on it's own.

All stainless all lifetime warrenty. If his system works out as cheap as he hopes, I could be looking at knocking the best part of a £100 off.

Unless Tube Torque bring something special out of the bag, that will probably be the way I will go.

Just waiting for a refund of the $215 for the Exhaust Depot 2.5" downpipe, that 935motorsports.com have failed to restock, and then for them to ship my whiteline handling kit (front wishbone bushes, rear radius arm bushes, front RB bushes, uprated adjustable ARB and rear ARB bushes) Frazer will confirm how good Whiteline stuff is.

Oh and I have a set of DBA disc brakes on a boat from AUS somewhere, to go with the new Ceramic Akebono pads, going to fit them all at once myself.

I could splurge and get a Blitz Nur Spec R, but at £1k and the need to find a flexi section, too pricey.

All these will either open up more power, or make it better to use the power I already have. Next stop, manual boost controller, and an FMIC conversion, already have the IC, ebayed for it last year just haven't gotten round to sorting the piping yet.

Reply to
Fraser Johnston

Should be a good set of kit. Front wishbone bushes, and front ARB bushes. Adjustable rear ARB and bushes, and rear radius arm bushes.

The beefed up rear ARB help get rid of the understeer tendencies of the GT4.

I would have gone for the Works kit, with the Whiteline valved Koni inserts, but the rears need cutting of the old stuts and welding new screw caps on and shortening of the inserts. In the end went with uprated KYBs and Eibach pro springs, both 20% uprated and 25mm lower and a set of TRD front topmounts.

I've got a set of KYB rear top mounts and dustboots to go on, when it goes back into my mechanic for getting the bush kit fitted.

The DBA discs arrived yesterday (about 2 weeks earlier than expected) so I might have a little dabble at getting them on today along with new pads.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

I'm running DBA disks as well but after the GTR they feel pretty shit. Went in a mark 4 Supra the other day with 8 spot Wilwoods. That thing stopped on a 10 cent piece.

Fraser

Reply to
Fraser Johnston

Wilwoods are much good here, they don't seal them too well, so road crap and rain gets in.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

!!!!

So the price is *too* mental then :)

Reply to
Nom

For full custom yes. You can buy ready made manifold in Mandrel nent=20 stainless Steel, for the later 9 bolt head that need "modification" to=20 the alternator mount for =A3220, how they can justify =A3800 stuns me=20 shitless.

--=20 "Sorry Sir, the meatballs are Orf" The poster formerly known as Skodapilot.

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Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

Racetech exhausts are Ebaying Mongoose systems. Currently waiting on one at =A3265. One of the other club members got his for that. Or they sell them from their own site for =A3300. Even Blueflame the makers charge =A3330+fitting Mongoose themselves charge over =A3400.

Plus I'll add a JJ-Jap downpipe/Decat, and keep the standard manifold=20 unless it is cracked, and just get the gaskets replaced.

--=20 Carl Robson "Sorry Sir the meatballs are orf" (The poster formerly known as Skodapilot)

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Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

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