Nitrous haze..

Good luck dude :-) Can't help with any of it, but I wish you well!

Although, make sure you don't blow the welds on the intake, or cause the passenger floor to drop out.

Or race it on the longest, flatest, strightest road in the world.

You will also need 27 gears and to never be in the right one.

Would it not be easier just to sell it and get an ST24 or ST200? They seem to go cheap enough nowadays :-)

Yep...

Wont hurt the motor if done correctly.

The timing will reduce power slightly. But ideally you need to fit another pickup or a "delay" box that operates only on the button... But with 50 extra you will probably get away without the retard as long as you use good fuel and you do the plug "thing". Cooler plugs cannot ever damage an engine. Hotter ones can/do. With nitrous the danger is detonation so colder plugs ar a precaution. They wont effect your normal driving unless all you do is drive it into the garage while cold. And back, or you 105 year old grandma drives it! Then you may get a sooty plug and have tgo clean it...

If it wotks for a few hours of playing it will be good for years. Again though this depends on your abilities when you mod the solenoid!

Every industri=al estate has a pneumatics place, and a hydraulics place... Have a look around.

Boom! No its not good. Part of the fun. It wont leak if you do it right! DIY and modding cars isnt for wimps!

but I don't much fancy

If you buy a commertial system the same applies. Any solenoid CAN leak but in practice they dont.

If you really worry then fit ignition kill switch so as you crank it foir a few secs it all gets pumped through the engine and out the exhaust. I never bothered. Is there an automatic valve that would be more

Fit 3 in line if you are that worried!

As long as you keep the supply line away from heat, and small diameter with low thermal mass then no. 4mm nylon for eg. If you use braided then yes and it causes other problems as well.

And then fit nitrous.

Sorry? Am I in the wrong group? ;-)

I like Q-cars. Give me a car that looks like a pile of dung but that goes like greased weaselshit and I'm happy. Detailing? What's that?

Anyway, an ST24 or ST200 would still be £1500+ for one with sensible miles, and be quite a bit more thirsty for day-to-day running. Instead of sub-£200 with this car (assuming I don't stuff it up...)

...and *You* are just the sort of man my mother warned me about.

Well done!

That's the hope - I can't afford to keep lunching engines.. risking one is plausible, though.

OK, I think I can knock one of those up. Presumably that would need to intercept the signal from the crank sensor and delay it when the go button is pressed - i.e. in parallel with the solenoids. What does the crank sensor (or whatever) put out? Is it just a hall effect switch? I can put a scope on it anyway, but I'm guessing you know off the top of your head...

I can handle that. I'll be sure to schedule frequent Italian tuneups.. as if I didn't already ;-)

Hmm. We'll have to wait and see. I can solder anything large or small and I've got a decent drill press, so what can go wrong?

Good point. There's a commercial aircon/pneumatics place down the road from my work, come to think of it. Dunno if they do supply only though.

I guess I'm just used to building safety into things.. must loosen up!

See above.

I was thinking the cylinder might have to go in the boot (I often have a car full) so the line would have to run most of the length of the car, maybe inside, under the sill trim. I thought you said braided would be good for the long supply line, nylon for the rest? Or should I just use

I'll go and try and find some bits then.. cheers for the advice.

Oh, and when I've got something to show I'll get a photo diary going so you can all laugh at my car.

I had a 1.6GL Mk 5 Cortina with a Very high compression 3.0 litre V6 from a Capri fitted when I was about 22. The real money went on bikes. It was battered and home built. It had beercans up to the level of the seats, sanwhich rappers and other junk mixed in with the tools all over the floor. It had a LOUD sterio considering there were no such things in the 80s. It pushed the windscreen out. That consisted of a pair of old 2x12 bass guitar units filling the rear seat with pizzo horns fitted and a couple of old amps hanging under the dash. It had a railway line welded across both ends where other people had bumbers.. Nobody parked near it and I learned to drive everywhere flat out and mostly sidways. Got banned 5 times. Your mother was right.

That's the hope - I can't afford to keep lunching engines.. risking one is plausible, though.

OK, I think I can knock one of those up. Presumably that would need to intercept the signal from the crank sensor and delay it when the go button is pressed - i.e. in parallel with the solenoids. What does the crank sensor (or whatever) put out? Is it just a hall effect switch? I can put a scope on it anyway, but I'm guessing you know off the top of your head...

Yep its a hall dual hall effect position sensor or at least it was on earlier fords, check anyway!

If you cant be bothered to make a delay box call trev at Highpower because he makes one (at a price)

I can handle that. I'll be sure to schedule frequent Italian tuneups.. as if I didn't already ;-)

Hmm. We'll have to wait and see. I can solder anything large or small and I've got a decent drill press, so what can go wrong?

Its tiny and needs to be accurate with good surface finish. mUCH CARE!

Good point. There's a commercial aircon/pneumatics place down the road from my work, come to think of it. Dunno if they do supply only though.

I guess I'm just used to building safety into things.. must loosen up!

See above.

I was thinking the cylinder might have to go in the boot (I often have a car full) so the line would have to run most of the length of the car, maybe inside, under the sill trim. I thought you said braided would be good for the long supply line, nylon for the rest? Or should I just use

yOU COULD BUT ITS A BIT BORDERLINE FOR THAT PURPOSE. oN hot days it may burst on tight radius or where warm near exhaust etc. I would because it works better. Scrutineers sometimes have other ideas though. Braided has various cross section changes and a large internal volume which causes inconsistent flow and nitrous densities at different times and temperatures. In this case you can get away with no purge but on occasions it will not be as instant as it should. And olso on occasion it will run richer due to the gas boiling as it travels down a large bore warm high thermal mass tube...

I'll go and try and find some bits then.. cheers for the advice.

Oh, and when I've got something to show I'll get a photo diary going so you can all laugh at my car.

OK why is my newsreader not adding the little > like it should???

Dunno. It worked fine on my last post, same newsreader and everything.

"Works for me" is the phrase, I believe.

Have you got OEQuotefix to go with that Windows Mail? I hear it does still work with it, since it's basically OE under the hood...

No but I will have very soon!

And its working again... Something to do with line length maybe...