was browsing and wonder if this would be ok on my car?
how did your GT4 react to a bov sleeker GT?
OK, not sure about that Apexi. With the SARD, It works fine, but at normal (50% on the temp gauge) operating temps), I occasionally get some hunting. I found that with the SARD, instead of tigthening the adjustment to make it harder to dump, to avoid the hunting, that just lead to full on stalling (which normally would be the opposite of what you would expect). I'm going to try and slacken it off a little further, see if I can dial out the last bit of hunting.
If you were to change to a cone filter instead of a resonator, and airbox, you would hear the Recirc a lot better (I found that on the Saab.
Have a look see if you can locate a good US price for Turbosmart/GoFastBits, Hybrid BOV, they have both a recirc and atmo outlet, you plumb in the recirc, and dial in the ammount you want to be recirced back, between totally closed and silent (through the system) and totally open loud and back to Atmo.
...but you'd be supplying the engine with a lovely hot-air feed :) Vamp's engine-bay temps are gonna be plenty high.
Depends where you locate the filter (or air supply to it) of course ;)
His air intake is at the side vent, perfect place for a cold air feed without acres of pipe work. It is exactley the right size for common Jap market cone filters and gets cold air when the car is moving.
What the hell is with that?? Mine wouldn't work AT ALL until the engine had warmed up. Very strange
When tighter, mine did the same thing, slackening it off, it now does it after about 2 mins running. I thought maybe I had introduced an airleak that was closing as things got warmer. Maybe not if yours is doing the same. Maybe it is clever japanese engineering that removes the temptation to rag the engine when cold just to make it dump, no point if it won't dump is there.
I had thought that but it just led me to rag it until i could hear it ;)
the toyota ECU won't let it go to full boost till it's at the right temp, think it limits to about 7psi or something untill things have warmed up so maybe that's why?
I know, on the GT4, 1st and 2nd are limited to 6PSI at all times, 3rd and above allows the full scary incredibley powerful 8psi. No wonder it seems slower than the Saab (which had 11PSI but a 5.5k redline), it only makes it 15BHP more, because of the higher redline, and loses most of the advantage due to 4wd losses.
Got a couple of mechanical changes to make (the Diff bush etc) but once done, thinking of fitting a Dawes device, and disabling T-VSV, and maybe even getting a Greddy E-manage piggyback fitted to sort out fueling, instead of just settling for "toyota knows best" Overfueling everywhere, and more so on max boost.
In the end I settled for Blingy chrome faced gauges as they were available and couldn't give a clue as to when the black ones would be available.
Now need a gauge pod, and the sender adaptors for the oil temp/pressure.
sounds good! is emanage better than the apexi FC? know a few MR2's with Apexi's.
got a small mod list coming now and it's looking good! hoping to be able to afford the bits for a boost increase up to 15-16psi by the end of next year, should see a good 260-280bhp :) that'll be well over 200bhp at the wheels!
i can get that apexi BOV cheap overseas so might try it and if it's a bit cack flog it on ebay for double what i paid like i see some other guy doing! £150 odd last i looked hehe.
That Sard I bought for arround £60+shipping, I've seen uk shops bringing them in and charging arround £200-250 for them.
Don't know if the E-manage is any better than the the Power FC, both need you to had into the loom I think.
I don't know if the Power FC has a default setting once wired in, for the SW20, but the E-Manage does, and I know of one UK guy, several Aussies, who have used SW20 settings to use an E-Manage on an ST185, then basically butt dyno'ed it with a Laptop to map it, and it seems to work fine.
sounds good, should give good power once chipped, looking at a boost increase too? if so what up to?
Going to play it by ear. Start with upto about 9-10 PSI in all gears, leaving the factory fuel cut inplace for safety if the piggyback will allow it (normally 12-14PSI on a normal ST185), or maybe moving the fuel cut upto 14-16 if the piggyback allows that, and running about 10-12PSI to allow for boost spikes. Should be better than 5-6psi in 1st and 2nd, and 8-9PSI in the top three.
If I go with a 2.5" decat, and go for a 2.5" system, I should avoid boost spikes, 3" systems tend to cause more spikes, and aren't needed until you are producing over 350BHP.
sounds good, my little mod list is this so far.
I think mine have a very slight bronze tint already.
Looking at either either the Oz Multi spoke (with the large centre like=20 the old GT4 rallycars) or Oz Superturismo WRC, or maybe compomotive MO's=20 or TH3's. 17" Rubber choice not decided yet. Got to be white though.=20 then get me some proper rallyslag big flappy mudflaps.
Can't decide whether to go up KYB uprateds and Eibachs, or TRD or Tein=20 street-tech coilovers. Definatley getting the brakes sorted. I think a=20 Tarox 6 pot conversion is a bit rich at =A31300, but I might consider 3G=20 discs, and Mintex 1144, Ferodo DS2500, or Porterfield RS4's. Hopefully=20 someone will get an off the shelf conversion for Volvo or Princess 4=20 pots for the ST185 together.
Can't decide on whether to go with Cusco or Whiteline (like the=20 multipoint lowers) or a mix of both, and going to do Swaybars too, while=20 I'm at it. The adjustable rear and the fixed uprated front help balance=20 the car, move it from understeery to balanced but rear biased.
Thinking of either going for one of Dodgy Scouse Peters mates Mongoose=20 systems if he still has them, or getting Tube torque to build me a 2.5"=20 System, plus a Tube torque Decat, and maybe a manifold depending on=20 whether it is cracked or loose.
Got the Sard Fitted. Sounds good, just needs tweaking a tiny little bit.
Got the AC Autotechnic ones ordered.
If I go with an E-manage, I'll fit an MBC, if I go Unichip, that can=20 control boost with the turbo daughter board.
Just listen to the next CD track
--=20 "Sorry Sir, the meatballs are Orf" The poster formerly known as Skodapilot.
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