OK, another question about my Golf 1.8T

Oh and don't bother spending 100 quid + on a bailey valve, get yourself a stand DV 710N from VAG, they cost around 20 quid and are much better than the standard one you have on yours, it's the one fitted to the 225 bhp engines.

If you run more boost it is reccomended you change the air intake pipe for the turbo, the standard one tends to collapse at around 180bhp

Reply to
Ronny
Loading thread data ...

Sounds like you don't believe the ads with the nekkid laydees in?

Good man.

Reply to
Conor

Hence "nothing that you would notice".

Reply to
Lordy.UK

That depends on how many horsepower you have in the first place. You can feel that 5hp disappear when the aircon kicks in on a Ka ;).

Reply to
Doki

Interesting advice, will bear this stuff in mind myself

Ken

Reply to
Ken (the sane one)

Agreed, the GT4 had a 2.25" factory system. When it rotted it was cheaper to put on a Mongoose. While that had a 4" tailpipe, the rest of the system was 2.5". With the slightly larger bore, and the one less de-resonator, it was slightly boomier at low revs, but able to pull much lower down, in higher gears.

And that was on a Turbo car. You don't really need a 3" system below

350-400BHP on a turbo engine, that of course is a generalisation some engines may differ.
Reply to
Elder

The only advantage of the bailey/forge etc valve is that they are rebuildable. But you would have to rebuild it a few times before it made enough sense. Oh and they are shiney :)

Reply to
Elder

Ah yes, I forgot about pleb cars :)

Reply to
Lordy.UK

However, I've also seen that if you put in a new air filters, induction kits and what not you can boost the performance for a lot less money. Are these claims realistic? What kind of cost is involved? And what kind of bhp gains can be had?

Dont bother.

Only the downpipe is restrictive on the 1.8T ,but not until you get to ~240bhp. (You'll have replaced the turbo at this point anyhow)

Get the car on the rollers first and have it properly set up on standard settings.

I can guarrentee that it will be down on factory output due to a soft wastegate spring (heat cylcing weakens it) and that the unbelievebably poor plastic recirc valve will be leaking what little precious boost you already have away.

An easy 150bhp is possible on stock boost and 190-200 piss easy on a properly set up base car + stage 1 chip.

Obviously the engine needs to be properly serviced with clean filters, in good health, and with fresh plugs and leads first.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

Is that the turbo as fitted to the 225bhp 1.8T engine? ISTR reading that the 225bhp version of that lump had other internal stuff strengthened, like a forged crankshaft and other bits, which is why they can reliably cope with more power, so putting the turbo off a 225bhp engine on a regular 150/180bhp engine would just put stuff like the crankshaft under more stress than it was designed for?

Or is it the case that the 150/180bhp engines can cope with around

225bhp as an absolute ceiling, and the internals of the stock 225bhp engines were actually designed with much more potential in mind?

Or is the K04 turbo either not from the 225bhp engine anyway, and if it was, were you implying not to run it quite at the levels of boost it would run at in the 225bhp TT?

Reply to
AstraVanMan

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.