SPi to carb MINI conversion

Pretty much a complete waste of time asking a technical question on here, as most regulars know very little about anything other than fitting ridiculous "wagon wheels" and LED washer jets!

Anyway to answer your question, I would advise you contact one of the Mini specialists, who should be able to advise you on the correct needle for the carb you have, and whether or not you are likely have any problems with the distributor you have fitted.

If the motor is std, then there is really no need to put a Mini with an SU on a rolling road, as you will be able to tune the carb pretty accurately without this, but I would advise that you check what advance you are getting, which is pretty easily done by anyone who has a timing light with advance/retard function.............

I don't know anyone who's fitted chocolate and marshmallow snack biscuits to their car.

You don't know me...

Timing lights with advance functions are relatively new on the DIY market. Ones with retard facilities yet to come?

However, all you need to check the curve is to knock up a timing disc (or strip to glue onto the rim of a pulley) on your computer (or buy one) and use a normal timing light in conjunction with a rev counter.

They aren't as big as they used to be. Infact, when I see them now, I think they are almost sensible in size.

I never liked them you know, I liked the jam ones for a bit but soon got bored.

Advance/retard timing lights have been around for years. As for fixing a timing disc on the crank pulley, one wonders if you have ever worked on a Mini?

k

Interesting. My SD1 EFI runs much better on a cold day - and the existing air intake looks like it's positioned through just convenience, and must get pretty hot air at low speeds - maybe even moderate ones. Racing ones have it boxed in which I assume gives a better supply of cold air and I've wondered about doing something like this myself.

Of course it was...that's why they posted what they'd already done and=20 that it was running like toss...

--=20 Conor

I'm really a nice guy. If I had friends, they would tell you.

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How do you check what the mixture and timing is at under WOT and with=20 the motor under load?

--=20 Conor

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Likewise your dumbass suggestion about not using a rolling road makes=20 one wonder if you've ever worked on anything not factory standard. =20

--=20 Conor

I'm really a nice guy. If I had friends, they would tell you.

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Tell me how you get a timing light to work *before* the spark triggers it?

That's what the strip fixed to the edge is for - although it's easiest on a car with a crank damper.

BTW, I've owned IIRC 6 Minis. And repaired just about everything on them at one time or another. As you had to.

Likewise your dumbass suggestion about not using a rolling road makes one wonder if you've ever worked on anything not factory standard.

You really dont have much of a clue do you? Why mess around trying to fix timing discs onto the engine, when all you need is an advance/retard timing light, and an accurate TDC mark on the front pulley, or better still the flywheel?

The thing that the clueless ones dont seem able to grasp is that accuracy is something that is needed when modifying engines, and to deny this becuase you dont seem to know what you are talking about, only goes to make you look stupid!

k

Perhaps he has skills you lack?

Ever seen an FI engine? Have they got air intake filters? For some competition use with 'stock' engines many discard the air filter. Such engines will be rebuilt long before bore wear through dirt becomes a problem.

Like timing lights that can give a retarded ignition setting?

I notice you've not replied to how you get a timing light to give you a retarded setting. The question is beyond your ken? It's rather obvious you've never used such a device.

Well, if your worried about accessibility as on a Mini, just how accessible is the flywheel on most cars? Let alone the job of marking it up accurately if no marks exist.

You're making a pretty decent fist of that yourself. Is that why you went bankrupt?

Here you go!

fat 3.8 inch bore plastic pipe as fitted to my Ford Sierras V8 Rover.It goes to a 4 inch hole drilled in the fromt of the inner wing. The original 1.6 used a similar but smaller setup.The air boxes narrow intake (cut off) was worth 7bhp with the filter binned. You dont really need one in this damp country! The cold air worth probably nothing on cool days but it runs better and makes a difference on hot days because heat soak etc and hot air from radiator is not good! .

And just what do *you* call the part the needle moves in? Fred?

BTW, not all SU carbs are single jet...

Have you still got the cat fitted at any point? Is so, is it blocked? Is the back box loosing its wadding and blocked?

Carb needle is irrelevant without a proper rollers set up, although going by the plugs it sounds ish-ok. A wide band o2 sensor is a good start to see if the mixture is vaguely in the right area, but obviously no use for checking ignition timing.

Is it pinking? Can it be made to pink? What static timing figure have you set it at???

It sounds like you dont have ignition advance at high revs anyhow. What diz are you usuing?? Have you actually plumbed the vacuum pipe in correctly. I've seen many a boy-racer mod where the igntion retards under throttle, rather than advances cos the tit doesnt understand where the difference between ported vaccuum and standard vaccuum take off points....

Tim..