Turbo experts...

My quest continues to build my 205 TDi (ie with intercooler). Having now gained a bonnet i now have virtually all the stuff to build the car. Just got to wait for my girlfriend to get a new one then i can get the 205 back (quite a while to wait unfortunately). But i'm still busy planning!

This website is proving invaluable:

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However due to me not speaking dutch, and translations being a bit iffy i'm not too sure about something. If i'm correct i think the little bendy pipe with the circular union things controls the wastegate. And this was ditched because he wanted to adjust it to stay closed for longer persumably. Then the new copper piping with the adjuster bit was added to give you manual control over the wastegate by reducing the airflow through to it. Does that sound plausible? If so i guess could i just leave it off or is that gonna negate any benfits of putting the intercooler on? Alternatively where the hell would i buy one of the little things from?

I've been looking around at the idea of using a BX/405 engine with it all setup already and just chucking it in, but there doesnt seem to be any going around at the mo, even as a complete car :(

Reply to
Carl Gibbs
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Leaving the wastgate at stock boost pressure and adding the intercooler (i'd use a front mount one- the engine top ones are not that efficient- both in terms of intercoolery-ness and also restrictive in flow) you would see abit of an increase in performance.

However you would loose alittle boost (so the engine feels less boost in actual fact) through the core and the extra ummph would only come about through denser air.

You can acheive the same thing with a slightly cruder thing called a bleed valve which bleeds off some pressure from the sence hose so the wastegate feels less pressure- so opens later. See Demon Tweeks or similar.

Becareful how you plumb it in- you should not interfer with the aneroid sense line to the injector pump as lowering the effective pressure seen here will decrease your fuelling and strangle the motor.

You may need to tweak up the fuelling screw abit also, stock boost or higher as there will be more oxygen available for the fuel to burn in. A smoke meter is handy at this point, as is an accurate boost gauge (essential) to set the thing up so it doesnt go bang.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim (Remove NOSPAM.

Front mounted is not an option, there is no space. Plus intercoolers are used on top in other cars with the same engine, so it can get all the bracketry and other little bits quite easily.

Sounds like it could be a good idea.

I belive that comes off the manifold rather than the turbo, so that can be left well alone!

I thought i'd have to fiddle with the fueling. A boost gauge is already planned as i want to put it in before i start anything to see how healthy the turbo is.

Cheers for the advice, very useful.

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

You need a

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That's almost exactly the same as the widget I had on my TI. Plumb it into the wastegate line (ie, before the wastegate), and choose your boost level with the screw on the side. No spiking oddness, cos of the ball-and-spring setup inside.

Reply to
Nom

"Nom" wrote

I was about to say something very similar except use this link:

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Because it's my friend who's selling those and he really is a nice nice person! He has bought almost every type of ball-and-spring type device on the market and settled on the model he's selling as it is the best one he could find. He uses them himself on his Thema LS Turbo and his Delta HF 4x4 and his Y10 Turbo

Reply to
fishman

That is what I'm planning on fitting to the Celica once I finally get round to fitting the Boost gauge (just fettling the pod mount to fit ATM).

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

That is what I was running on my GTS-t Skyline. I still have it in the top of my toolbox. I think I paid about aus$8 for it from a place that specialises in air fittings. Festo they are called. Probably in the uk somewhere. 22 quid is a serious ripoff.

Fraser

Reply to
Fraser Johnston

hehe i got offered one free but said no! shoulda said yes and donated it to you :) i want an apexi AVCR for a bit of dash bling rather than a hide away boost control! plus i can set different boost setting for different gears i think with the AVCR, and adjust boost in car which is nice for them slippery winter roads :)

Reply to
Vamp

Was thinking about getting the bits and making my own. Shouldn't be too hard at a plumbing/DIY store.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

Don't want dash bling. Discrete car PC for me will do, won't hardly even notice it when done. Closest to bling I will get will be the 3 gauges in the pod, and even they go blank when off.

Slippery winter roads, Hmm, 4wd, hmm, should be fun.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

Cool that looks just the job. One of those will be going on my shopping list. My turbo is a KKK, which has integral wastegate and actuator, i assume this will still be ok to use one of these valves since it seems as though the little bendy pipe is the thing that feeds the pressurized air to it. I think i need to try and get hold of a turbo and have a look at it. Used to have a couple laying around too

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

In news: snipped-for-privacy@individual.net, Carl Gibbs decided to enlighten our sheltered souls with a rant as follows

Beware BX engines and trying to put them in 205s..

BTDT, the engine mounting lugs on the motor are nowhere near the Pug ones.

Reply to
Pete M

souls

Are you sure its not just the mounting arm thats different as i thought they were all the same? A 1.8TD from a Rover 218 definately fits so thats another option. But i think i'm just gonna stick with my current engine anyway now

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

If your boost pressure is controlled *solely* by the wastegate, then plumb the valve in just before the wastegate, and away you go.

The issues come when you have something else controlling the boost - be it the ECU, or some sort of automatic solenoid like Rover use on the T16 lumps. If this is the case, you need to remove/bypass it - the brass valve should really be the *only* thing controlling your boost.

Reply to
Nom

In news: snipped-for-privacy@individual.net, Carl Gibbs decided to enlighten our sheltered souls with a rant as follows

I'm not 100% sure about the diesel motors being different, but IIRC the diesel used the same basic block as the petrol, and the 1.9 Petrol isn't swappable. Cost a friend of mine £600 to find that out.

Reply to
Pete M

souls

I'll scrape that idea then. Cheers for the info!

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

Yeah, essentially it is, but my Haynes manual says everything is integral and cannot be fiddled with. however a dutch website i've attempted to read suggests it has a 'wastegate feed pipe' which you can put the little valvey thing into. Obviously i'd like to confirm this before buying things! I'm trying to get hold of a turbo i gave away a year or 2 ago to study it a bit.

Assuming all my plans will work, then i reckon £150 should be enough to sort me out with everything i need. Should give me 15 or so bhp with a bit of fiddling with the fueling, maybe even a bit more. Doesnt sound a lot, but it only has 78bhp at the mo. With the torque as well it should make a noticeable difference, so i wont be lagging behind the GTis so much on events :)

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

You know, you can get Superchargers for RC engines ;) Although apparantly they don't do much, summet to do with the ports or something, but they look and sound cool :)

Reply to
DanTXD

Sweet! Will have to look into that in about 5 years time when i have some money :) I'm quite happy with mine at the mo, although i need to spend some time setting it up as its running a bit rough and the brakes dont work :)

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

Well there must be an airway SOMEWHERE carrying the flow to the wastegate, otherwise it'd never open :)

Reply to
Nom

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