what gearshift ?

Leccy paddles. Rods and cables are a PITA to keep feeling 'tight', IYSWIM.

BOB! Is it really you? Welcome back.

Do you still need a throttle blip with no flywheel and very little internal engine inertia?

Leccy paddles are clearly cooler but I am (perhaps unnecessarily) imagining a world of pain to make it work properly and reliably. How 'bolt on' is such a system?

Fine, so what setup does leccy paddles with clutchless downshifting - flat shifting up the way is easy to find.

If this had throttle blip for downshift, it would be way up there on my list.

They've been around in the bike world for many years now - not too expensive and very easy to bolt on.

My mate's dad's 7 clone that I've posted pics of before (the orangeVortex) has an R1 engine, and that has a sequential shifter stick in the centre, and been that it's all set up with bike stuff you can flat shift anyway if you want, but he says they tend to clutch up the upshift, and not bother on the downshift (I think I've got that the right way round).

I don't know how helpful this info is, but they seem to have immense fun driving it, and it works well, and he drives it to work sometimes when it's sunny, and also took it the 90 odd miles to a kitcar show near Lincoln last year heh - so it must work ok on the road too.

It seems to me that manual paddles or electronic flappy paddles are just an unnecessary complication that could go wrong (especially the electronic ones!). I think the sequential stick shifter, although the least interesting, is the best way to go personally.

Very bolt on seems to be the answer.

I'm being a bit narrow minded here, but I have managed to lock up the back end going into the hairpin when I had the locost. That was down to injudicious downshifting. I want throttle blip on the downshift so that I can stand on the brakes and pull the left paddle three times - all within the straight bit between the esses and the hairpin. Turn - nail throttle - flick right hand paddle ,2,3 - flick right hand paddle,2,3 - etc.....

Am I being idealistic ?

Hmmm, the only systems that work that well in real life, are on Supercars or the new DSG setups - which are either ridiculously expensive, and fragile, or just ridiculous expensive, because the box itself is made of titanium, tanks and Rambo...

It's t'other way around.

Electronic acutation of a sequential shift is very simple to to - it's just a simple push / pull. Much easier than automating a 'normal' H-gate car box.

Oops heh, I couldn't remember from riding either it's been that long.

I'm sure it is, but it's still adding an extra bit of, probably quite pricey, electronics.

Surprisingly cheap.

This was the one I had in mind

Try giving ProShift a ring on 01332 294 994 and speak to them, (they will try to sell you one of there systems, but I here they are honest).

Standard airshifters do that too. I always used them, without a problem. Like you say you can use a solenoid instead to push and an ignition cut. I used to arange my own though.

but it doesn't do throttle blip for

So fit another microswitch that blips via another cheap solenoid and a 555 timer chip ti limit duration to your choice via a pot?

Should be easy to arrange. The microswitch needs to operate just before the gear down actuator one. And limited to a duration of say 1/30 of a second. Or whatever trial and error says is smoothest.

Trev langfikeld used to do a system that worked like that for disabled up/down shifters on bikes.