1990 GT - Transmission swap questions...

Well, beyond the obvious. You'll need to get the wiring for the clutch interlock and if you have cruise, the disengage switch for that. The auto cars just have a loop thru wire there so it will be a matter of plugging it in.They might be on the pedals when you get them.

The rubber boot that fills the the big hole in the floor ( apparently they can be hard to get I've heard )

Don't forget to get an input shaft bearing as your auto car won't have one in the end of the crank.

Believe it or not even the Engine management computer is different from an auto to stick car but I don't think it is a real problem.

If you have a donour car you're getting the parts from don't get rid of it until the swap is all done.

It also may be a good time to replace your U joints ( or at least inspect them). STuK

I suggest doing a google search on this event and then decide whether or not you really want to do this. It may be more cost effective for you to find another '90 GT Mustang with a T-5 already in it.

You will need, aside from the transmission -

pedal cluster w/ quadrant cable assembly bellhousing Flywheel Pilot bearing clutch kit w/ throwout bearing pivot stud (in bellhousing for clutch fork) clutch fork transmission crossmember for T-5 Shifter Oil seal boot (if not already on AOD cars) Shifter boot (pleather) w/ trim plate

There also may be speedometer cable issues (length, inaccuracy after swap) and driveshaft issues (length)

It would be beneficial to have a parts car available, as there is a lot of little things that you'll probably end up needing... and if you remove it from the parts car first, you know what *not* to do on your driver if you break something.

Make sure you know you have a good transmission before you do all of that work to have to pull the thing back out to be rebuilt too. Test-drive if possible. 2nd gear synchros are known to go bad first. Check for abnormal vibration at highway speeds in neutral - this usually means the main shaft is gone and it's cheaper to buy a rebuilt trans than it is to replace that one shaft.

Your EEC-IV will function, though it's not tuned as hot as a 5-speed computer IIRC. The difference is probably negligable and you'll gain more from decreased parasitic loss by going to they 5-speed than you will by swapping the EEC-IV.

While it's out, I recommend...

Tri-Ax shifter steel input bearing retainer aluminum quadrant w/ adjustable cable (or firewall adjuster, depending on the kit)

*new* flywheel, not a reground used one. A used one may have heat stresses. A reground used is better than just swapping in a used flywheel, but a new one is the preferred route, even on a cable clutch setup. poly trans and crossmember mounts Exhuast of your choice, as you'll have to remove the H-pipe at the least, depending on the exhaust system already installed and if the car's seen salt (snowy winter or coastal areas). If you're gonna hang exhaust on the car anyway, might as well do it while it's already removed.

I've not personally done one of these swaps on my own car, but I've assisted a friend of mine do it, and I've pulled down plenty of T-5's. Hope that information helps. Again, do a google search on T5 conversion and see what you come up with. It can be done, but it'll cost a bunch by the time it's all said and done.

Then again, if you have an emotional attachment to *your* car as most in here do, it's worth it.

JS

I believe Larry Hepinstall did it, or someone else in here. It can be done but its a good bit of work. Hopefully Larry, or whoever did it will chime in for you. Erik D. '94 white lightning

You can run an automatic EEC on a 5 speed car but not the other way around. It is said the auto EEC has alittle quicker throttle response than the 5 speed. The premier and most sought after 5 speed EEC would be the A9L.

TIM -aka- snipped-for-privacy@AOL.COM