2000 GT Stalling - Ideas?

Greetings Mustang Experts!

I wonder if any of you have encountered the problem I'm having with my 2000 Mustang GT. I first encountered the problem at about 40,000 miles, and continues.

The car always starts with no problem, but sometimes (a few times a month) immediately after starting, the tachometer drops like a stone to zero immediately after starting. I can keep the engine going by pressing on the accelerator, but the moment I let off (say, to brake), the car stalls again. This will go on for about ten minutes or so - I assume the problem going away has something to do with the engine warming up. As the engine warms, the car will start to stay alive when I take my foot off the accelerator, but will roughly idle at about 500 RPM instead of the normal 900 - 1200. Evenutally, the car will operate normally again.

This problem seems to occur mostly on rainy days, or cloudy, high humdity days. I think it also seems to happen more often after I've been on long interstate driving, but I'm less sure of that.

I had a complete fuel system cleaning performed, and that didn't help. I've added fuel injector cleaners, but they don't seem to help either. I change my oil and filter every 3000 miles, and use 89 octane fuel.

Becuase this is an intermittant problem, I can't get any mechanic to believe that it really exists. You know how it is - they seem to think that I have nothing better to do with my time and money than to bring a perfectly good car in for service, or that I'm too stupid to know when my car is operating normally.

Anyway - I suspect that there is something wrong with the high voltage system - perhaps a crack in the insulation on some wire or component that acts up when the high humidity causes arcing. I speculate that as the engine warms, the air dries, and the arcing stops - but that's just a guess. Have any of you experienced something similar? Any ideas?

Thanks for any help you can suggest!

Best Regards, Dave

Reply to
Dave F
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Reply to
Erik D.

accelerator,

Reply to
KellyJ

No chance of arcing. These engines use coil on plug modules. There are no sparkplugwires, only the regular electric wires going to the coils. Like others already said, the IAC valve is probably dirty/clogged. When the engine is cold is needs a little more throttle. This is done by the iac valve. Once up to temp, the iac valve is (usually) no longer needed. Coulkd also be a faulty valve.

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Reply to
Rein

First of all, I don't know a lot about cars, so I can't get too technical here.

I have a 2000 GT also. Had this problem about a month ago. Took it in. The shop replaced the Idle Air Control Valve, or something like that. Haven't had a problem since.

Hope this helps.

Ken

Reply to
Ken Zwyers

I want to thank all of you who responded to my request for help! It sounds like there is a consensus that I ought to start by checking the Idle Air Control Valve and/or Motor. I strongly suspect that you have saved me hundreds of dollars and hours of time - not to mention the frustration of dealing with an intermittant problem like this!

Again - thank you for taking the time to help out those of us who know less about these things than you do!

Best Regards, Dave

Reply to
Dave F

Thats what we're here for. There are so many mustang owners out there that more than one person is bound to suffer from the same problems. In this case, many thousands have suffered from a faulty or malfunctioning IAC. It can be an aggrivating problem to figure out if you don't have someone to tell you what it is and that they have experienced the same thing. Good luck and we all hope that it fixes your problem. Erik D. '94 white lightning

Reply to
Erik D.

I have a mustag GT 2000 and I have the same problem. I've spent a lot of $ but it didn't fix. I'm goin to do what you guys suggested and hopefully it's gonna work. thanks.

Reply to
mustangGT_00

Hello guys, I did fuel system cleaning, changed sparks, changed fuel filter, and even changed the IAC valve, but the problem still existing. Mechanics say it's normal but i guess they say that coz they can't fix it. Any suggestion that can help would be appreciated! It's 2000 GT with 120,000 miles thnx

Reply to
mustangGT_00

I found in my 2001 that if I didn't use fuel system cleaning around every three or four tanks of gas, this would happen.

-Rich

Reply to
RichA

Stop using 89 octane, use 87 as the manual states. I would check all ground straps also. Also have the fuel pressure checked (running and not running but primed). At 120K the fuel pump might be on its last legs. You can get a tester for around 40 bucks. Don't overtighten the connector or you will ruin the little seal in it.

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Reply to
Rein

Why would this cause the car to stall?

Reply to
Wound Up

I preface this by saying that I don't know a ton about cars. I had a problem last fall where my '00 GT could not hold an idle. It would run if I kept my foot on the gas, but, the minute that I took my foot off of the gas, it would stall. The dealer had to replace the Idle Air Control.

Hope this helps.

Ken Zwyers

Reply to
Ken Zwyers

I think it causes buildup along the intake and in the heads and through the injectors and stuff. Its a slower burning fuel than regular 87 octane so less of it actually burns off. I am not 100% sure on that, but I think I read it somewhere. Try cleaning the mass air sensor also, that could very well be your problem. Erik D. '94 white lightning '01 white GT

Reply to
Erik D.

The only place unburnst gas could build up would be after the fact, like in the convertors. Rotten egg smell.

Reply to
Wound Up

Just a thot, if during your cleanup you didn't happen to clean and recharge a K&N air filter by chance? If so, you may have over done the re-oiling and its contaminated the MAF sensor.

Reply to
Jafo

Didn't say it did, but it could hide other issues. The manual states to use 87, so use 87. All these fantasies about 'cleaner' burning, 'better' burning, etc.. Who came up with all this ? The ONLY reason to use higher octane is for higher compression cars and/or cars with superchargers/turbo's to prevent detonation/pinging. Use 87.

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Reply to
Rein

This is not my car; I was just curious regarding the reply. I understand the actual need of higher octane fuels. When I smell the rotten egg convertor stench on the highway, I often think of how many people don't. The answer seemed to indicate higher octane caused this problem, that's all....

Marketers at oil companies have been successful for years at making consumers waste money on fuel they don't need, and it is sad. I time my '67 by ear and feel; it needs 89. The EFI cars get only what they need not to ping. My beater Tempo needs 89 at 196k most likely because of increased compression due to carbon buildup. No rotten eggs.

Reply to
Wound Up

Rotten Egg smell usually is caused by high sulpher content in the fuel.

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Reply to
Rein

I changed the IAC and that didn't fix the problem. the check ingine light is not on, but i went to one of my friends who work at speeddee and he connected the car to a computer and ran it to check the IAC %. he found it was about 25% and needed to readjust the rpm screw. he made it to about 18 or 19% which is 850 in rpm. i'm not that expert but that what i got out of him. the car runs much better now.

Reply to
mustangGT_00

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