5.0 Engine Whine

I just got my car back from the shop. {I was rear ended) Now it makes a really high pitched whine when idling and under light load. When I put a little more load on it, it sounds like it goes away but im not sure, my exhaust is to loud to hear much.

I took the accesory belt off and started the car, and it was still there. So i know its not the idler, water pump, a/c, or alt.

I dont even know where to start as I am a novice with cars.

-Evan

Reply to
Evan
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Here's a longshot. Could a clogged air filter and the associated excessive restriction cause an air-sucking whine ? (you know those body shops are full of dust)

Next guess: Since the damage was at the rear end....was a new fuel pump installed? (I can hear mine at idle) I know it's at the other end from the engine but ya never know.

Sooner or later my 'million monkeys at a million typewriters' guesses will hit paydirt! heh-heh DP

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Reply to
Dinsdale

OK..... manual or standard trans? Was it spanked hard enough to move the differential forward? Does the noise vary with RPM? Is the noise from the front of the motor? Rear of the motor? Further back in the car?

You're there, we're not... you need to be our eyes as well as ears and we need to know everything.

Reply to
Jim Warman

Could it be your throwout bering? You said it whines at idle. When you hear it whine try pushing on the clutch lightly at first , then slowly apply more pressure to the clutch and see if the noise increses, decreses , or goes away all together. Test it and let know. There are a bunch of smart guys in this group, I am sure if you give them adequate and accurate information they can find your little tick.

Reply to
Carver

The car is a 66 with a 91 5.0, t-5 and 9". The sound starts once the engine is warmed up. It sounds very much like a horn that is not recieving full power. It happens when idling (in neutral or in gear), and when the engine is under light load. I cant tell if it goes away with more load, because my exhaust is too load. It sounds like it is coming from the back of the engine.

But I figured it out. Its the PCV line. It was sucked close and was humming and viberating. I just replaced the line and PCV valve a couple of months back when I changed the oil. I did not put the filter back in, I was told it was just a restriction.

What would cause this? I know they can get gunked up, but this fast?

-Evan

Reply to
Evan

Evan opined in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

A RESTRICTION!!!!! To WHAT!!

That filter is a primarily an oil separator... if it's a "restriction", then it's just doing its job. Yeah, they get gunked up with condensation and some contaminants... but the oil splash cleans them off somewhat... but YOUR BUDS dont understand the cycle... so NOW the gunk gets inside your PCV instead... wonder why!

Stop paying attention to guys around the freaking water cooler and think for yourself about why Ford would put it there!

But good for you for finding it!

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

Backyard Mechanic opined in news:Xns95A96DFDFFAD4BkMch6d@207.115.63.158:

Driving habits: Infrequent use + short trips = more condensation/oil sludge

I suggest you use Mobil 1 oil, drive car for at least a half hour at least 1 of every four start-ups... dont just start car for 5 minutes and shut it off.

You NOW need to clean up your engine, if the PCV is that sludged, Mobil 1 and 500 mile filter change plus longer trips will do it.

Purolator or Motorcraft filters

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

Backyard Mechanic opined in news:Xns95A97007CBA32BkMch6d@207.115.63.158:

And if these same geniuses told you 180 deg thermostat was "better", take that out and put in a 192, as the 5.0 gods intended.

That would ALSO cause sludge buildup.

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

Backyard, I took my mesh filter out years ago and my PCV has never clogged up on me ever. I even reused it when I did a Windsor swap. It is just a check valve they can be cleaned.

Reply to
Carver

I would have thought that the word "filter" might mean something.... As ByM mentioned, this is an air/oil separator and it has a job to do. As far as it being a restriction..... the PCV valve itself is much more restrictive than the mesh. I would serve everyone well to take a step back and gain an understanding of how and why the PCV valve is there in the first place.

At high intake manifold vacuum, the PCV is essentially closed (unless you have a real long cam) and the only flow through the valve is a tiny orofice. This works out OK for the crankcase because we're not building big cylinder pressures and blow-by shouldn't be much of a concern (unless we're driving junk). As we open the throttle, manifold vacuum decreases and cylinder pressures increase.... the PCV unseats and allows more flow. KOEO, the PCV is in it's wide open position.

In the small block Ford, high rpm can pump a LOT of oil into the valve covers..... enough that the lack of the air/oil separator *may* allow oil to enter the intake tract. Oil in the combustion chamber can lead to detonation and detonation can lead you to pulling your wallet out of your pocket (it will likely be very thin when you put it back).

Gunk on the PCV may be an indication of less than adequate oil, poor maintenance, not allowing the motor to come to full operating temp too often or an indication of poor cylinder sealing (or a combination of two or more of these conditions).

Now... seeing that the motor appears to be out of a newer car and there is a chance that we are all thinking in terms of late 60's PCV systems when we should be thinking in terms of modern PCV systems....... If the filter you are talking about s on the upstream (intake) side of the PCV system and is either soft foam or pleated paper..... then this is an air filter. It would be filtering dust out of the air that is entering your motor (what a unique concept) and some of the guck on the PCV would be that small portion of dirt that isn't busy kicking the crap out of your engines guts.

But I'm over 40 and likely not trustworthy....

Reply to
Jim Warman

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