67 mustang brakes

is there any tricks to rebuilding 67 mustang calipers ?

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Yeah, swap them for '68's StuK

Reply to
Stuart&Janet

Reply to
Johnny K

The '68 spindles will bolt on as the ball joints are the same as '67's.

However the '67 lower arms are unique to that year as they are are larger than '65/'66 BUT have the angled strut rod bolt holes like the '65/'66. In '68 they changed the bolt hole to be straight and angled the mounting flanges on the strut rods. These '68 lowers are interchangeable with every Mustang/Cougar and intermediate after that right up to the Granada etc....If you have the '68 strut rods my suggestion is to swap them in and you can benefit by using the ( read CHEAPER!) '68 lowers. StuK

Reply to
Stuart&Janet

well i'd rather keep it as close to 67 as possible.. From my research, the lower control arms for 67 cost the same as 68 (at least from laurelmountain).. And I already have 1 67 strut rod.. So I'd rather get

67 suspensi> The '68 spindles will bolt on as the ball joints are the same as '67's. >

right up to the

and you can

Reply to
Johnny K

The actual balljoint taper and size is the same for all vintage Mustangs/Cougars so any spindle will interchange so you can keep the '67 lower arms and install the spindles. The taper is the same for Granada/ Monarch/Maverick/Comet/Fairlane/Falcon/Comet/Torino/Montego. The outer tie rod changes depending on the spindle. The only other thing is the upper balljoints are either 4 bolt or 3 bolt mounting depending on year etc. If your upper arms have 4 bolts then that's what you buy but the BJ taper is still the same.

My main point was that the '68 full floater brakes are a little more serviceable than the

4 piston '67's.

BTW you can measure all you want on my car but it has drums so I doubt it would be much help! ;^) By all means bring some beer over though! StuK

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Reply to
Stuart&Janet

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Reply to
Johnny K

Don't get the lower balljoints confused with the lower control arm. The arms are different between the '67 and '68 but the BJ's on them are the same BUT when you buy the BJ guess what? it comes with the arm! so you need to specify what year. If you can get the '67's for the same price then you're good to go. StuK

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Reply to
Stuart&Janet

First, do NOT buy parts from Mustang parts suppliers without shopping around. Check your local stores, most of this stuff is still available and much cheaper than buying them from Mustang-specific suppliers. My rotors were $40, and Mustang catalogs wanted (at the time) $120 per rotor!! Brake booster locally $150, Mustang store $320!!

Use compressed air to pop the pistons out. Put a piece of wood wrapped with a rag where the rotor would normally go, and apply low pressure to the inlet port. The pistons should pop out gently into the rag, or at least far enough out where you can pull them out the rest of the way. They won't come out completely with air pressure because when one piston is out, the rest of them won't get any pressure. Inspect, clean, and replace as necessary. A new boot and seal set is a must. The crossover lines should be fine unless they look corroded and/or are leaking. Make sure the area the pad slides on are smooth and lubed with a slight film of high temp grease.

I swapped my drums with disc brakes off of a '67 cougar that had been sitting in the dirt for over 15 years. Took them apart, cleaned them, replaced the seals ($15) and slapped them back on. One piston was somewhat pitted from some moisture that had entered it. This was around 1992. They still work great to this day - no leaks, pulls, or uneven pad wear.

Don't let the nay-sayers or advertisment-based magazine articles scare you with their "swap to '68 brakes instead" rumors. The fixed calipers work just fine. The only advantages sliding calipers have is that they're cheaper to fix, maintain, and produce. If cost is your deciding factor then yes, the single piston slide jobs are the way to go. You still need to lube the slides often to keep them from sticking. Back in my auto tech years I've seen more sliding piston brakes hang up and seize compared to fixed calipers. Heck if fixed calipers are good enough for Brembo, Baer, Wilwood, Porsche, etc. then they're good enough for me.

Reply to
Ron L

I would agree that 4 piston brakes are actually BETTER than floaters. If you want originality and or use the car quite often I'd say go for it. Here in the great white north we store our cars half the year so it would behoove one to bleed the entire system with fresh fluid after the season to rid it of absorbed water which kills brake systems.

The similarity of the two systems is if one piston sticks you're rebuilding the calipers. The difference is: In the case of the '67 your doing four pistons on the '68 your doing one. Simple math. That is why the industry has gone to full floaters on most cars since then. It is merely my preference. StuK

Reply to
Stuart&Janet

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