'79 front suspension

We're still at the beginning of the saga of this car, but I have a couple questions on the front suspension and what we might do next. (the front brake upgrade is still high on our list...but junior needs to earn a few more paychecks to buy them)

We replaced the rod and bushings that connect the lower arm to the sway bar. That was a good, easy fix that my son did himself. (How do we know how far to tighten this?) However, the car still bangs pretty hard over gaps in the pavement.

Looks to me like the ball joints need replaced, based on the Chilton's diagrams that show the grease fitting position as it relates to wear. I don't have any experience to draw from here... would old ball joints make a rough ride? Any tips on replacing them, and favorite places to buy the parts?

I'm also thinking we need to do some easy stuff, such as replace the sway bar mounts and any other rubber in there.

How do I check if the springs are sprung? The previous owner stuck a piece of 2x4 in the rear springs. I'm not sure what he was going for, but I can compress those (just a little) with my hand. What's a good price for new non-performance springs? (I'm not building a hot-rod.)

Last q...where do I get a throttle cable assembly?

Just a point of interest, it looks like we have the 2.8 V-6, which was never used again in this car. What's the consensus on this engine? Junk? Solid? Just OK?

-John O

Reply to
JohnO
Loading thread data ...

Chilton's manuals are crap. They tend to mix all sorts of things up. Does the '79 even have grease fittings on the ball joints from the factory?

Ball joint wear is generally measured by the free play in the joint. This means taking the weight off that portion of the suspension and trying to move the wheel/tire correctly (play in and out) to see if there is any looseness in the ball joint.

Actually it sounds as if the car needs struts/shocks.

Sounds like he was trying to make half ass supports for sagging springs.

Reply to
Brent P

Yeah, I see that now. Some of the engine instrux aren't very clear. I work for Heathkit, so I am spoiled, but still.

The '79 does have grease fittings.

Struts up front. Well, good thing junior has a job. :-) That's one I don't think we'll install ourselves. I'll buy them somewhere and take them to a pro.

Yeah, I thought it was something stupid like that.

Reply to
JohnO

I suggest you dont... now is as good a time as any to demonstrate how to do such a job SAFELY. For crine out loud... you are going to be rebuilding that whole car, you cant run it to the shop every time it gets a little dangerous. And that's nowhere near as risky as messing with springs... which I also recommend he learn how to do right.

Find a local, even a shop mech, who has done it a couple times, have him come and supervise for a few beers (after!)...

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

The mustang has struts separate from the springs. It's actually a straightforward job to do. I've done it on two mustangs, just took care and attention.

Reply to
Brent P

It seems I had more danger stuck in my head about struts than about springs.

John O

Reply to
JohnO

"JohnO" wrote in news:1145968479.047805.80180 @g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

I have a 2.8 in my '75 Mercury Bobcat. It's a dependable, if somewhat noisy engine. It has solid lifters and has a distinctive clatter. It's strong enough to move that car, but your son isn't going to be doing any burnouts with it.

Also, don't expect fabulous gas mileage. 22 highway is about as good as it gets.

The 2.8 is a popular engine in Europe for swaps into cars like the Sunbeam, etc. They were originally used in the imported Mercury Capri, and found their way into Pintos, Mustangs, Capris, and early Rangers. It was originally an industrial engine made by Volkswagen. Ford bought the engine, and re-engineered it for use in automobiles. Ford updated it in the '80s as the 2.9, and again later as the 4.0.

One tip I can give you - the thermostat housing can be a pig to work on. It's located on the water pump, and has 3 steel bolts threading into an aluminum shell. I would start looking for a spare, because if you ever have to change the thermostat, chances are the bolts will snap off, unless someone was smart enough to use antiseize on them. The part you want is not the front part of the shell, but the rear part that the bolts thread into.

Reply to
elaich

Just as well, I suppose.

Well, that sucks. :-)

Wow, that's really good to know. We almost took a look at that thermostat, and breaking off bolts would have wrecked our day. So, the 'stat is on top of the pump? A buddy and I guessed it was at the bottom, and my quick look at a Chiltons led me to believe the same. But the top is better. Looks like someone once replaced all the coolant fittings because there's blue sealant at those points. I'll cross my fingers on the bolts for now, but we'll keep any eye out for a spare rear shell. Thanks.

-John O

Reply to
JohnO

OK, a look at the book last night confirms what you're telling me. This isn't nearly as difficult as I imagined. Looks like we can do the ball joints, lower control arm bushings, and maybe springs/struts all at the same time.

Autozone rents (loans?) the tools to remove and install ball joints. Good idea to do this myself?

-John O

Reply to
JohnO

"JohnO" wrote in news:1146051109.856536.232120 @i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

No, it's on the right lower side. The bottom radiator hose attaches to it.

Reply to
elaich

That was where we guessed. PITA to have to drain the entire system to replace a $8 part. ;-)

-John O

Reply to
JohnO

Bear in mind the springs are more difficult than on many cars, they are short and require 'outside' compressors... I bought three different sets before I found one that worked well.

Someone on here can probably tell you which ones/where to buy or rent them.

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.