A/C causes fuse to blow

you probably need a new compressor, the seals ware out over time, put metal crap into the freon, pull more on the fan clutch etc. If this is the orgional compressor, you did fine! Time for another one, it could be lifetime guarentee on it. You can replace the fan clutch yourself, it is a bolt on. But the part is too simple to fail in such a fashion I think.

But you can find the electrical diagrams online and see what else goes through the fuse too

Good luck

Hell, why didn't you try a 60 amp fuse?? Sooner or later you gotta find one that will not blow.

Is a 22cal. the same?

My guess would be failed (shorted) compressor clutch coil. If you're not a car guy, take it in for fixing.

Note: if a fuse suddenly starts blowing, don't put in a bigger fuse. Figure out what's broken, because something has, and tha fuse is trying to protect your wiring.

Ok, Ok, OK, no bigger fuses, I got it, no problem. It got everyone all excited though! hahahaha. Thank you all for the actual suggestions. Can anyone tell me what a reasonable compressor repair/replacement would cost? The guy could tell me some huge amount and I wouldn't know any better. Thanks for the guidance!

Fred

Fred wrote in news:Xns997CF0D69F691gforse@216.196.97.136:

You likely do NOT need a new compressor. I have an 88 GT with 140K on it and the compressor is still going strong. What you need is a new A/C clutch coil coil and maybe a new A/C clutch pully and A/C clutch hub. I'm doing the same replacement on my 2002 Explorer. On that car it's a pain in the ass to replace because the compressor is mounted on the bottom of the car. I don't know where it is on your 94 GT. On my 88 GT the compressor is on the top of the engine and it wouldn't take more than an hour to change out all three of these parts leaving the compressor on the car, if the shop knows what they are doing. Add another hour for diagnosis and general b.s. All three of these parts are about $150 total (do some web searchs to get an idea of the cost.)

If your compressor is on the bottom of the engine, it will be cheaper and faster for the shop to remove the whole compressor. Once you crack open the system, it has to be completely evacuated and recharged. At that point, on a car that old, I'd replace the compressor as long as your paying for the labor to remove and replace it, evacuate and recharge the system. And a little more bad news: When you replace the compressor, you MUST replace the accumulator, otherwise the crap in the old one will contaminate your new compressor, killing it and the warranty. A replacement compressor with clutch assembly is about $300-$700 depending on if's a rebuilt, new, OEM or aftermarket etc. All told, if you can get away with just replacing the clutch because it's accessible, I'd expect to pay $200-$400 at a shop. If you need to get a new compressor your looking at around $1,000. These are big city prices (Los Angeles). It could be less in a reasonable area.

Fred wrote in news:Xns997DCE4B36E27gforse@216.196.97.136:

so you get to choose, buy a clutch and put it on, if it fixes it, done! If not, then you need new compressor and you are out the $150.

bad clutches do not hold at higher rpm, or just do not hold at all. you can start engine open hood, watch clutch front, turn on AC and see it spin as it grabs on If it is flaky it may stop holding,

Yeah, 22 long.

if you insist that a bigger fuse will work, try 1 inch steel plate. Most likely the rest of the car will melt before the fuse blows.