What is the amperage of the 2005-up Mustang alternator? Do they have a high output version? Also is the stock alt sufficient to run one 5 channel amp and 1 mono amp probably equalling over 100 amps?
Also the 8 inch subs in the doors- can you use an aftermarket sub in place of them? I"m not sure if the door enclosure is sealed or not.
That's a shit load to run off a stock alt, even a high amp one.
Well, I don't see why you couldn't, other than they'd sound like shit. The doors are most probably not sealed, and even if they were, how much space could get out of a door panel to make even a halfassed sealed enclosure with the amount of basket/frame depth you'd HAVE to have for a decent driver?
Yes that is a lot of power drain from the alt. The fuses all together equal
120 amps. Of course it won't be run full blast 100% of the time, so the battery can recover. I seem to remember reading the new 2005s have a high output alt installed which might be 135 amps. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I'm not sure if more can be wired into it using as kit."Braxus" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com:
Better get some caps wired in there somewhere...
That is what I was going to recommend. A one farad cap should hook him up nicely, unless he wants to add an isolator to the alternator and a deep cycle marine battery to power his sound system.
Come to think of it, I am so insane that I would still drop in a cap or two (or four) even with an isolator and an extra battery. I had a similar setup in my '96 T-Bird V-8 to run 4 old school punch 150s distributed as follows: one for the Infinity Kappa front door speakers, one for the Boston Acoustics pro series rear side panel speakers, and one for each 12" Kicker Solobaric sub. I swear, when I would crank that system up, it really hurt. Metallica sounded the best with that system. Hindsight being 20/20, I think the 1 farad caps were overkill for the door and rear panel speakers. I could have easily gotten away with 1/2 farad (lol).
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