another question (89 LX)

Hey folks,

my 89 Mustang is a 4banger, and thanks to another member of this newsgroup, I've discovered that a K&N air filter, and a flowmaster exhaust won't do much to pump up my Stang's power. So, my question is, what WILL? I'm sure getting it "turbo charged" or something along those lines is the answer, but what exactly does that entail (equippment, price, work, etc)?

Another quick question: there is some sun damage on the car, which has caused the rubber window/weather seals (sorry, bad terminology) to become a bit cracked -- what can be done to replace them, what are my options? Thankyou for very much in advance.

Cheers D. W. Desmond

*For the worst in everything, visit vocephus.com* "Now I want you to remember that no bastard ever won a war by dying for his country. He won it by making the other poor dumb bastard die for his country."

--Gen. George S. Patton

Reply to
Desservo2
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Yes a turbo would give you more power but alot of work goes into installing that. Ford did make mustang 4cyl's with turbos they were called Mustang SVO's I think it would entail the same work as changing to a 5.0. The best bet if you want power im sorry to say is to get another mustang. Maybe look for a 5.0 with a blown engine or something and just fix that up.

You would probably have to replace the seals. Im sure your local ford dealership can get you new seals but they usually cost an arm and a leg.

Reply to
John W

He could get a turbo 4cly from XR4Ti or Tbird turbo coupe as well. That's easier than trying to turn a non-turbo into a turbo. Going with a turbo 4 cylinder would mean that he wouldn't have do anything more than maybe swap out the rear end and trans to ones that could handle the additional power. That's a worst case. Someone else may know if the stock 4 banger units are strong enough to handle a turbo 4. The items like springs, etc that would be changed for the weight of a V8 could be left alone.

Reply to
Brent P

I think the SVO's had forged internals. His best bet would prolly find a whole engine with the turbo already installed. The exaust might have to be changed along with the computer and such. And I also think the tranny / rear end would have to be changed. But thats about as much work as going to a

5.0. except for the suspension.
Reply to
John W

Does your car have an auto trans or 5 speed manual? If it is an auto car they REALLY are dogs due to parasitic losses. The 5 speed at least allows you to pic the rev range for a bit better acceleration. Also the auto trans they used on those cars are notorious for self destructing...suddenly. As for the sundamaged seals, I saved this from an old post here on RAMFM.

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----- For anyone else who's had the inevitable "rotting" of the rubber moldings around the rear quarter windows on fox Mustangs, I have found a solution. Head over to your nearest Home Depot and purchase a can of black "PlastiKote". It's the stuff that's sold to dip tools and such in to give them a rubber coating. I did the following: Mix 3 parts PLASTIDIP to 2 parts naptha (recommended solvent by the manufacturer and also available at Home Depot) to get a sprayable mixture. Use 220 grit sandpaper to scuff the surface of the existing molding. Use Prepsol (or laqueur thinner/naptha) and a lint-free cloth to wipe down the entire surface after sanding. This should also remove any oils or silicone sprayed on the part in months/years gone by. Mask the painted surfaces around the molding. I didn't bother masking the glass as I just used a razor to scrape off any overspray. Spray on 3-4 coats, allowing 5-6 minutes of drying time between coats. This stuff dries very quickly and seems rather resistant to running so I applied heavy coats. I used an air compressor and auto touch-up sprayer (also available at Home Depot), but you can also use a cheap spray gun made by "Preval" (again, available at Home Depot) that uses disposable cannisters of compressed air to propel the paint. The results were exceptionally good. It would take serious scrutiny to even tell the parts had been "painted". The rubber coating looks and feels like the original. It also seems to do a good job of covering scuffs/blemishes on the black bumper/door moldings. In summary, it only took about an hour from start to finish. The materials were cheap...about $10 for the PlastiKote and naptha and less than $10 for the disposable sprayer if you go that route. The touch up sprayer that I bought for my compressor (also at Home Depot) was only $35. You'll likely have half a container of the plastic stuff leftover. I used it to coat my battery terminals, repair a few blemishes on my bumpers, and seal a few air leaks around the doors/windows. This stuff is the best thing since sliced bread. Cheers, Chris --

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StuK

"Desservo2" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@mb-m14.aol.com...

Reply to
Stuart&Janet

Thanks a lot for your help -- something I'll definitely look into. Your input is appreciated.

Cheers.

"Stuart&Janet" wrote:

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D. W. Desmond

*For the worst in everything, visit vocephus.com* "Now I want you to remember that no bastard ever won a war by dying for his country. He won it by making the other poor dumb bastard die for his country."

--Gen. George S. Patton

Reply to
Desservo2

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