Another rear end I am considering... Thoughts?

CobraJet was kind enough to wave me off of the last one I was looking at for my 1968 Mustang.

This one is 31-spline but it is 8.8 inch (not 9 inch which I understand is better) and I do not know how to tell if it is an N case. How can I tell?

Does this look like a good rear end for a big block in a '68 Mustang coupe? I am going with either a 428CJ I might have a line on or a built

460 (400-500HP).

Here is the auction:

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------------------------------------- This is an auction for a RACE READY freshly built Ford 8.8 rear end. I had this built for a project race truck but never got to use it. All welds have been professionally ground and re-welded for strength and the housing has been welded to the tubes to eliminate any flex. Axle tube flex in the housing is the number one killer of rear-ends in both off-road applications and on the street. Don't buy a "professionally welded rear-end" and find out somebody has welded the gears together to make a posi unit. This rear-end is built the right way to include a Ford Racing Trac-Loc posi unit, Ford Racing 3.55 gears, 31 spline axles, Trick Flow supported diff cover, and ARP hardware. This rear-end was designed for street or strip use with up to a 700 horsepower engine but is even more outstanding as an offroad rear-end. It's doubtfull you could break this rear-end. This rear end also includes a removeable sway bar that works great for truck applications but can be removed for cars.

Bolt pattern is 5 x 5.5 Ford, Jeep CJ, or Dodge. This is the rear-end you see most commonly on the track due to its ease of installation, strength, and weight. Want a bullet-proof way to beef up your Jeep, Ford, or Dodge? This is the way. This rear-end is comparible in strength to most of the Dana rears but is much lighter. Do the math on parts alone and you'll see what a great deal this one is.

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Thanks! Thomas

Reply to
Thomas Cameron
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understand

There are three Ford rear ends you're going to run into. There's the 8 and 9 inchers, and the 8.8 inchers. The 8 and 9 have removable carriers, meaning that the center housing is made of sheet metal, with the cast iron carrier removable to access the ring & pinion and the differential. The 8.8 is an integral carrier design. You remove the rear inspection plate to access the guts.

AFAIK only 9 inchers have ever had the "N" case. You identify it by a raised "N" cast into the carrier.

Some people are running 8.8 inchers in their vintage Mustangs, but unless it came from a truck you need to weld on brackets for the leaf springs. This e-Bay item looks to have leaf spring brackets, but the 5 on 5.5 axles are no good for a car, at least if you want to have your front rims match the rears. Your Mustang has a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern, as do most all the oldies (and also 80's Rangers and Aerostars, and late model Crown Vics).

The other thing to keep in mind is the width of the axle. You should try to keep in the ballpark with your existing axle, or you'll end up with a different set of wheels on each end of the car.

In short, you should stick with a 9" made for a vintage Mustang. And if you want to take the easy way out, but not the cheap way, just call Currie or one of the other axle people out there and they'll fix you up.

180 Out
Reply to
one80out

The 8.8" is a late model rear, fox body, ranger, etc. It is not a direct bolt in for a vintage mustangs, the offset is different.

Reply to
.boB

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