Brakes?

Hi all,

I am new to the group... Could not find a FAQ for this group... Surprised to find computer Q&A posted here...

Brakes.

I have a 1990 GT 5.0 which I bought from the origional owner when his

2yr open-ended lease was up.

The front disk brakes were never great, but worked fine. Until I started driving the infamous Highway 17 between the Silicon Valley and Santa Cruz California. They warped quickly (bad driver!). I had the rotors turned once, which straightened them out a bit, but occasionally driving over 17, usually with minimal use of the brakes, warped them back to where they had been and beyond. My teeth rattle pretty hard on a hard stop on level ground now. Downhill is much worse of course.

The Factory brake pads lasted 80,000 miles, that is when I had the rotors turned, so I am not hard on brakes in general. Just on 17.

I am loooking for suggestions for a replacement front disk brake system for 1990 Mustang GT. I would prefer to not have to changeout the factory "turbine" mags.

I want mild overkill. I expect that complete replacement will probably only cost about double what rotor replacement will cost. OK, maybe three times...

There are lots of companies selling parts. I would like strong functionality with minimal cost (cost is less important than function).

Goal - to not have to do this again, even if I have to stop quickly repeatedly on Hwy 17.

Suggestions?

TIA!

--Dave

Java__Dave@NOSPAM_Hotmail.com

Reply to
Dave
Loading thread data ...

Hey Dave and Welcome!

You can google the FAQ, It was last posted about a month ago when someone was asking about it. The faq pretty much boils down to: Don't spam, don't troll, don't post in html.

DO talk Mustangs and enjoy.

Oh, and there are already a couple of trolls in here. Kinda like roaches ya know.

Hope you get the answers you are looking for on your brakes!

Kate

98 Cobra Drop Top
Reply to
SVTKate

On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 11:03:28 GMT, Dave wrote something wonderfully witty:

Once rotors are warped, their warped. Turning them may improve it for a while but the problem will come back. Warping usually occurs from to quick of a heating cooling process. Knowing the road that you are talking about, it is fairly easy to heat your brakes up right nice. A set of cross-drilled rotors will help dissipate the heat a little better. Also more pistons, four or six, will give better braking performance as well.

Believe it or not a set of Rotors are fairly cheap, except on my Vette, I will usually replace them once they have been turned once or if I ever warp them.

Read

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and you will beglad you did. While the article is for 94 & later Mustangs, the sametype of upgrade can be done on your 90.

Reply to
ZombyWoof

bullcrap machining will remove warpage making it straight average run out on a warped rotor is .005" not that much when you machine .060 is taken off in fact that is very little material it is cooling that warps them try this at home doo 100mph stop then drive through a waterpuddle

lmfao tard rotors are so cheap its better to buy new and get new brng race than machine ( time factor)

hurc ast ford mastertech

Reply to
promot

Before spending a dime, read this:

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In case you don't know of Carroll Smith, he was a race car builder for many years. He wrote some excellent books, including "Tune to Win", and "Engineer to Win". He died recently.

Then, after you read that, go to the Wilwood Brakes and Baer Brakes web pages and read through their FAQ pages. That will provide the groundwork for building an excellent brake system without wasting a bunch of $$.

Reply to
.boB

wow, you got promoted to ford mastertech eh?

Im surely impressed.

Reply to
<japhar81>

Well, the one is not a troll. More like newsgroup genital warts.

dwight

Reply to
dwight

In the case of warped rotors it is almost always more cost effective to just replace the rotors, turning down the old ones just prolongs the inevitable. A good upgrade to the stock system is to replace the stock 65mm front calipers with 73mm ones from a Lincoln LSC or Crown Victoria. This change sometimes requires the addition of a larger master cylinder as well. (depends on year). You have probably noticed that your rear brake shoes are in pristine condition. That's because they ain't doing s**t! Installing an adjustable proportioning valve will enable you to get the rears to start pulling their share of the load. If you want even more stopping power you can go with a SSBC rear disk upgrade kit, combined with the aforementioned

73mm front calipers this will give you European like braking performance. The whole thing fits nicely underneath your stock rims with no problem. The kit also comes with a new master cylinder if your car requires one so that is one less part you have to buy if you go this route. I have this exact setup in my 88GT and I love it. A cautionary note, if you install the rear kit without the larger front calipers the peddle effort will be uncomfortably high.
Reply to
ironrod

| > Oh, and there are already a couple of trolls in here. Kinda like roaches | > ya | > know. | | Well, the one is not a troll. More like newsgroup genital warts. | | dwight |

Damn Dwight, no one has a way with a mental image quite like you

LMAO!

Kqate

Reply to
SVTKate

I'll second that.... Just wound up spitting coffee all over my monitor reading that.

Reply to
japhar81

Hello again,

ZombyWoof, .boB, ironrod, thank you for your informaive replies.

I'm going to go do some reading now.

--Dave

Reply to
Dave

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