CFrog diagnosis, please...

Thanks, Joe, Mike, and Windsor. I think the problem is solved (for now).

As preface, I should say, "Remember who you're dealing with." Every troubleshooting manual for an electronic product begins with:

"1. Make sure the unit is plugged in."

They do this for people like me.

I rushed out and bought a new battery for CFrog - I was happy to do so. The battery is an integral component to the proper operation of the vehicle, and nothing but the best for the new baby. Besides, I wasn't too sure how long the ProStart had been under the hood, but it looked old. (Of course, so did everything else under the hood, which had probably only ever been opened for routine maintenance.)

I popped the new battery in, and began a series of misadventures. What I forgot was the most obvious, the step that every beginner takes care of, if they only follow instructions.

I didn't clean the cable connectors. They didn't look all that corroded, and they sure-enough sparked when I re-applied them, so I didn't consider that the connectors weren't making a proper seating on the terminals.

I gave them a thorough cleaning, applied my anti-corrosion goo, reconnected them, and CFrog started right up.

I figure that the original battery WAS dead, since I couldn't jump it with TFrog. (If I'm wrong, just leave me in my ignorance.) And I still want to replace at least the positive lead, sooner rather than later, since the nut on that cable is rather frayed and the cable itself is obviously original.

So, until something else compounds the problem, I'm good to go.

dwight (pronounced duh-wight)

Thanks, Jim and Steve. My suspicion is the rear main seal, which has never been replaced. Probably a leak there. It's a shame, since this is yet another new clutch plate/friction plate combo (and, yes, replaced pilot bearing and release bearing at the same time - about six months ago). If I start up at or very near idle, I can get going. Giving it any gas, though, it bucks like a wild bronco.

dwight

"dwight" wrote in news:c6h0je$c3bei$ snipped-for-privacy@ID-226566.news.uni-berlin.de:

Glad it worked out. I like problems like that. Easy and inexpensive to fix.

What's up with the anti-corrosion goo? I've never used it because I never saw corrosion on the terminals. Never had the problem you experienced, either. Maybe it's because I have to replace the damn battery in the LX every 14 months because of the underdrives, the posts never get the chance to corrode...

Joe Calypso Green '93 5.0 LX AOD hatch with a few goodies Black '03 Dakota 5.9 R/T CC

This happened to me with my GS455. It wouldn't start well sometimes. So I ended up having it towed to a friends house since I lived in an apartment that didn't allow working on a car. I did some battery swaps that they didn't notice (due to my obvious stealthness - and the fact I had Wed off while everyone else was at work). Since that didn't fix it, we started removing the battery cable and starter when we got it to his house. As it turned out, I only needed to cut down the original cable about 6 inches to get to some good cable. By that time it was too late, so we just removed it.

Steve

72 Skylark

Duh-wight,

Sorry, I can't. Take the old battery to your local parts store. They can test it to see how much life it has left.

Do so now. If you don't, you'll end up getting stranded... trust me... been there.

Patrick '93 Cobra '83 LTD

Heh, I almost said to make sure the terminals were clean. Guess I didn't think about "whom I was dealing with" LOL.

Classic starter motor failure, if you ask me. Start by having the starter tested, then go from there. If you replace it, buy new, not used if at all possible.

-JD

-------------------------------- Enlightenment for The Masses: http:/207.13.104.8/users/jdadams--------------------------------

** I gave them a thorough cleaning, applied my anti-corrosion goo, reconnected ** them, and CFrog started right up.

I used to know a guy who got so fed up with battery post corrosion problems, he actually used a torch to melt the connector and the top of the post together. When he changed batteries, he used a special drill attatchment that popped it right off (same drill attachment used to cut holes in doors for locksets), then did the same thing with the new battery. Worked pretty good. I always figured he would blow himself up doing this, but it never happened.

This shouldn't happen to a DOG. Next time you have it apart, smear a bit of that anti-corrosion compound around the sides of the posts as well, and you'll never have problems again. Most people just smear it on top.

-JD

-------------------------------- Enlightenment for The Masses: http:/207.13.104.8/users/jdadams--------------------------------

Not so much on the terminals, but on the cable hardware, certainly. Maybe y'all don't get that down there in Flor-ee-duh, but, over time, a nasty buildup forms between the cable and post, often seeping into the threads of the bolt that holds the two together.

Since I just put in a new battery, and hope to have it undisturbed for the next four years at least, I thought I'd try some anti-corrosion gel. Heck, may be snake oil, for all I know, but for $1.99, if it works, great! Normally, I just put a little grease on the posts...

dwight

First, we trade the old in on the new here. Otherwise, there's a core charge that's refunded when we bring the old one in later.

Second, I was thrilled for the opportunity to buy a new battery for CFrog. Remember how happy I was when the exhaust pipes finally fell off of TFrog? Any excuse to upgrade!

I remember a cable that absolutely MELTED when I tried starting a car once. Popped the hood, and all I had was a puddle of goo. That scared the bejeezus out of me.

dwight

I would rule out a bad flywheel. I would also rule out the rear main seal issue. The rear main seal leaks more when the car has warmed up...obviously. As it throws oil out you get a slipping clutch...not chatter in first. (I have had this same exact situation happen to me)

T-O Bearing...they can go bad quick. I received a bad one out of the box and didn't know it. I am not a pro through...just experienced.

Don Manniing

"dwight" wrote in news:c6irgk$c6hha$ snipped-for-privacy@ID-226566.news.uni-berlin.de:

Well now, ya learn somethin' every day. Thanks, duh-wight.

Joe Calypso Green '93 5.0 LX AOD hatch with a few goodies Black '03 Dakota 5.9 R/T CC

Can ya believe it...Duh-wight giving car maintenence advice :-)

Mike

1995 Eagle Talon TSi of all the old cars

Sonofabitch, Mike, you're right! Wonders never cease. It actually made sense, too.

Sorry, duw-w.. just couldn't resist. You know we love ya. Ya got a pair of '93s. :)

Joe Calypso Green '93 5.0 LX AOD hatch with a few goodies Black '03 Dakota 5.9 R/T CC

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (TurboMike) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mb-m18.aol.com:

Yeah, I'm really jealous of C-Frog. Gotta love drop top driving. BTW, Joe...you sh*thead, your in Florida, why don't YOu have a 'vert??? big

Mike

1995 Eagle Talon TSi of all the old cars

You don't have to guess why I don't have one!!!

Steve

72 Skylark

up...obviously.

The car does get progressively worse as it warms up...

This is why I'm still shopping for a mechanic who knows, understands, and can actually REPAIR a transmission.

dwight

If it helps, I'm sitting here picking dead skin off my left arm. I've always had a much darker left arm than right, and it's always darker on top than on the bottom. But, for some reason, I got a severe sunburn in Nashville. My nose peeled a little, but my left arm, around the elbow area, looks like I've got a bad case of the mange.

Now, a sunburn on my driving arm might have happened with or without a convertible, but I think it's time to mind my SPF. (Damn, it itches, too.)

dwight

If you were here in Oklahoma, we could get you taken care of the right way...

Don Manning

backpressure