FOXY BODY Conv. Mustang BEST Suspension Modifications for the Money

I have a 91' Conv. Mustang. I wanted to know the best suspension mods. to do for the money. The car has already had the subframe connectioned and the car is lowered with Eibach springs and launch in rear.

I could do the front strut tower brace. That isn't that expense, but I am not sure how much of a difference that is going to make. Trying to find one that fits over the intake and the supercharger.

I know I could do the K member joint. The parts are 200-500 dollars. Then I am guessing alot of labor to replace the old one to put in the new one unless I did it myself. Is it worth it. I know you get weight reduction but not doing it for that.

I am not sure that type of bearing are in the car. I could find that out. I am not sure how much of a difference that is going to make. Also not sure how that is going to cost big bucks.

I had also thought about the rollercage to stiffen up the ride. Don't really like the look to much but thinking about it. I have heard conflicting reports on whether it actually helps with the ride.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks Chris

Reply to
Christopher J. Martin
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For the money, a strut tower brace will help most.

Patrick '93 Cobra '83 LTD

Reply to
Patrick

Anyone else?

Reply to
Christopher J. Martin

I agree on the strut tower brace, it will be a big help.

One more thing: good shocks. You can't overestimate the importance of good shocks. I love my Konis, but Bilsteins are good too. It sounds like you need a heavier duty shock with your Eibachs.

Careful with that K-member, you may end up changing the geometry of your front end. This isn't bad (I changed my geometry), but you must also make sure everything else falls into place, such as steering angles, bumpsteer, and alignment. I'm not sure what direction you want to go with this car (drag, autocross, fun street driver, etc), but good rear control arms car a big help as well.

Reply to
Victor DiMichina

I would also include the Tokico Illumina shocks and struts in addition to the others mentioned. They are a little cheaper but are extremely well made and work well for autocross / open track / street. They are also the same as Koni's in size and shape so any coil over for Koni also works with Tokico.

Reply to
Joe Cilinceon

I was looking for best ride as in corning and all around driving but definitely not drag.

So just because I did the springs, the shocks are also important. I thought they were for more ride quality then handling.

I think I would do the K joint last being that more expense and requires more work. But I will keep that in mind.

Thanks

Chris

Reply to
Christopher J. Martin

Being that the car is a CONV. Would adding a Rollcage add to the stiffness of the chassis? I have heard conflicting reports.

chris

Reply to
Christopher J. Martin

Where can I get the shocks for cheap?

Reply to
Christopher J. Martin

Summitt or Jegs. I got mine from Summitt.

Konis or Bilsteins aren't cheap, unfortunately. You'll be looking at about 800 bucks for front, rear, and quad shocks for Koni adjustables. Standard Bilsteins should be less, and if those still aren't in your budget, I hear Tockicos are good. Since I'm hooked on the adjustable Konis, and they have a lifetime warranty, they're the only shocks I'll ever have on this car.

Another cost cutter ($100) is to not get Koni quad shocks, just slap a set of Gabriels or Monroes in for quads.

NEVER underestimate the importance of shocks in handling. IMHO, good handling is more dependant on shocks than springs.

Reply to
Victor DiMichina

It would, but do you really need to go that far? A set of Global West subframe connectors & seat braces will stiffen that car immensely.

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Reply to
Victor DiMichina

What are seat braces?

Never heard of them before...

Reply to
Christopher J. Martin

Check out this picture....

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You see the subframe connector. Look about a foot in front of the "Global West" sticker (closer to camera) and you'll see a black powder coated bracket that is perpindicular to the subframe connector tube. That bracket sits on the tube (it's welded). My seats bolt into that bracket.

Instead of my seat being bolted into the flimsy floorpan, it's now bolted to a much sturdier piece of roll cage material. On old Mustangs (late 80's early 90) that have been driven hard, you may notice the driver's and passenger's seat tilting toward the console. The floorpan can become weak and even tear after time. They must endure a lot of stress. The seat braces give a much sturdier feel to your driving experience.

Reply to
Victor DiMichina

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