Head bolt sheared -- how to get out

Ugh....This is why I normally use an impact gun on them when I can. It seems to reduce the incidence of snapping the heads off of bolts. Douse the protruding stud in PB Blaster or WD-40 and let it sit overnight. Use a stud extractor on it to remove it from the block. Get a new set of head bolts from your local stealership. What did the valves look like?

Cheers,

Reply to
Ritz
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Bummer.

That's a great price if you can get it for that.

It's not hard at all to remove that bolt if you've got an impact gun. 8-)

Cheers,

Reply to
Ritz

"Lloyd Cimprich" wrote in news:a4292$4362cdda$cf70179f$ snipped-for-privacy@PRIMUS.CA:

A tip... If you want some better performance out of that car.. though it'll cost you in mileage, get a head for a turbo coupe... assuming it's single plug still in that year.

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

I finally got a socket to fit the head bolts on my 1990 2.3 Mustang but one of the bolts sheared. There is about 1/2" protuding above block and I am looking for advice from those who have done this before.

Thanks.

Reply to
Lloyd Cimprich

The most effective way that I have found to remove bolts that have broken off is to weld a nut onto the stud sticking out. The heat from the welder is usually enough to expand and contract the bolt to be removed rather easily.

...Ron

--

68' Camaro RS 88' Firebird Formula 00' Mustang GT Vert
Reply to
RSCamaro

I thought to try the my impact wrench but did not have an impact socket.

It was dark out but all the valves looked OK except for #3 exhaust which had a small chunk out of it. The chunk was about the size of a match head and seems to have gone out the exhaust. Probably in the cat.

Bottom end looks OK but also have to inspect in daylight.

I am now looking for a roller cam/followers and new lash adjusters. I may be able to get a rebuit head for $250 with core charge so will look into that next week.

Other than the head bolt I think I am OK.

How hard is it to get the nut off the crankshaft so I can replace the timing belt?

Thanks in advance.

did the valves look like?

Reply to
Lloyd Cimprich

Hard to get an impact gun in there to get the nut off. I use a long stout box wrench and a rubber hammer. If it's a stick shift, put it in the highest gear and lock the parking brake to keep the crank from turning.

Al

Reply to
Big Al

Use a good penetrating oil on this rascal and let it soak as long as feasible. Respray it occasionally. If I can get to it, I have used a small pipewrench (not vicegrips) on the bolt. It will bite in, and you can work it slowly back and forth and hope it slips. Tighten a little as well as loosen. Once you break the 'logjam' it goes pretty easy.

As others have said, you can weld a nut to it and have a go with your breakover bar or impact wrench, too.

I would have used a regular socket on my impact wrench, if I didnt have a proper impact socket. A good socket will hold up enough to loosen that sucker.

You can normally take your head to a machine shop and have them go through it a lot cheaper than $250.. and you, I hope, know the condition of your head.. You have no clue, really, when you get an exchange.

Reply to
<HLS

I cant believe I wrote 'vice' grips...visegrips...

Reply to
<HLS

Must have been a subconcious thing. I like the original spelling better anyway, the only vicegrips I use in my garage are the ones used as clamps for welding purposes.

...Ron

--

68' Camaro RS 88' Firebird Formula 00' Mustang GT Vert
Reply to
RSCamaro

Why not simply tap it and use an easyout?

Reply to
ZombyWoof

Because he said there was a fair bit of stud sticking up out of the block. If it had broken off somewhat flush with the block, I'd agree with you.

Cheers,

Reply to
Ritz

Exactly. Easyouts are a pain to use, and not always so successful, especially if you have a more 'robust' way to approach it.

Visegrips are okay as welding clamps, but on heavy jobs, they just dont hold the mark.

A firm back and forth motion on the bolt shaft, with use of a good penetrating oil, will normally loosen even the toughest one.

Reply to
<HLS

In order of effectiveness

Kroil

Free All

PB Blaster

Reply to
Hairy

Thanks for all the excellent advice! I do not have a welder but will try pipe wrench and penetrating oil. Does anyone have a suggestion related to penetration oils? Lately I have been using rust check and it seems to help.

Thanks.

Reply to
Lloyd Cimprich

The best penetrating oil Ive ever seen/used is called "Nuts Off" but I havent seen it around in a while

Dave

Reply to
news

I notice it a bit less in the last few years myself.

Reply to
<HLS

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