Ugh....This is why I normally use an impact gun on them when I can. It seems to reduce the incidence of snapping the heads off of bolts. Douse the protruding stud in PB Blaster or WD-40 and let it sit overnight. Use a stud extractor on it to remove it from the block. Get a new set of head bolts from your local stealership. What did the valves look like?
"Lloyd Cimprich" wrote in news:a4292$4362cdda$cf70179f$ snipped-for-privacy@PRIMUS.CA:
A tip... If you want some better performance out of that car.. though it'll cost you in mileage, get a head for a turbo coupe... assuming it's single plug still in that year.
I finally got a socket to fit the head bolts on my 1990 2.3 Mustang but one of the bolts sheared. There is about 1/2" protuding above block and I am looking for advice from those who have done this before.
The most effective way that I have found to remove bolts that have broken off is to weld a nut onto the stud sticking out. The heat from the welder is usually enough to expand and contract the bolt to be removed rather easily.
...Ron
--
68' Camaro RS
88' Firebird Formula
00' Mustang GT Vert
I thought to try the my impact wrench but did not have an impact socket.
It was dark out but all the valves looked OK except for #3 exhaust which had a small chunk out of it. The chunk was about the size of a match head and seems to have gone out the exhaust. Probably in the cat.
Bottom end looks OK but also have to inspect in daylight.
I am now looking for a roller cam/followers and new lash adjusters. I may be able to get a rebuit head for $250 with core charge so will look into that next week.
Other than the head bolt I think I am OK.
How hard is it to get the nut off the crankshaft so I can replace the timing belt?
Hard to get an impact gun in there to get the nut off. I use a long stout box wrench and a rubber hammer. If it's a stick shift, put it in the highest gear and lock the parking brake to keep the crank from turning.
Use a good penetrating oil on this rascal and let it soak as long as feasible. Respray it occasionally. If I can get to it, I have used a small pipewrench (not vicegrips) on the bolt. It will bite in, and you can work it slowly back and forth and hope it slips. Tighten a little as well as loosen. Once you break the 'logjam' it goes pretty easy.
As others have said, you can weld a nut to it and have a go with your breakover bar or impact wrench, too.
I would have used a regular socket on my impact wrench, if I didnt have a proper impact socket. A good socket will hold up enough to loosen that sucker.
You can normally take your head to a machine shop and have them go through it a lot cheaper than $250.. and you, I hope, know the condition of your head.. You have no clue, really, when you get an exchange.
Must have been a subconcious thing. I like the original spelling better anyway, the only vicegrips I use in my garage are the ones used as clamps for welding purposes.
...Ron
--
68' Camaro RS
88' Firebird Formula
00' Mustang GT Vert
Thanks for all the excellent advice! I do not have a welder but will try pipe wrench and penetrating oil. Does anyone have a suggestion related to penetration oils? Lately I have been using rust check and it seems to help.
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