Header / manifold recommendations?

All,

I'm going to replace my log-style 289/302 manifolds with either (in no particular order):

- Hi-Po manifolds (expensive)

- 351W manifolds

- Shorties (recommendations?)

- and MAYBE long-tube, such as Tri-Y.

The purpose of this car (67 Mustang) is for street driving and the occassional Sunday cruise. I would like a lower-maintenance option, which is why I say "MAYBE" long-tube headers. I would also like to avoid the heat that these put off. Whatever I choose, I would like to get good bang-for-buck. The build is a stock longblock, Comp. Xtreme Energy (256 seat-to-seat, 212 @ 0.050" (.477) intake, 218 @ 0.050" (.484) exhaust; Ignitor, Edelbrock Performer 600 carb & Performer 289 intake.

I may get a bigger cam, which would be Comp. Xtreme Energy (262 seat-to-seat, 218 @ 0.050 (.493) intake, 224 @ 0.050" (.500) exhaust.

I am not ruling out working over my 302 Marine heads (55cc) or getting aftermarket heads with higher C/R and bigger ports, so I don't want to waste $ on a solution that would be limited to my current setup.

Thanks for your input!

Reply to
67RMod
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The Hipos and the early 351Ws are very similar, except that the Windsors have a bit more bulk and a ton less cost. If you have power sterring, switch to the 1969 hoses, so you can run them low next to the oil pan. Otherwise, you'll melt them frequently. I use the Windsor manifolds on my '68.

Reply to
Whole Lotta Tom

Long tube headers. Get them Jet Hot coated. You won't believe how much lower the under hood temps are with Jet hot coated parts.

Use copper manifold and collector gaskets. Accept NO substitutes. Retighten them once after one or two heat/cool cycles and fughgettaboutem.

Erich

Reply to
Kathy and Erich Coiner

Your best bang for the buck is going to be 351W manifolds. They are dirt cheap, last forever, and make decent power below 4500'ish. They are easy to fit, and you never have to worry about leaks. For your engine and your kind of driving, you won't be giving anything up at all. If you decide to upgrade later to bigger heads, cam intake, you won't be out much money at all. These manifolds can usually be had for $20-30 at most bone yards.

Tri-Y's would be the next best thing, with excellent power across the band. But your engine won't be moving enough air to really take advantage of that. They are not cheap, either. And you know what a pain headers are. "It's just a simple bolt on!" Yeah, right.

Reply to
boB

boB,

I think this is how I'm going to go, because of other rec's and cost / maintenance considerations. It'll be a year or longer before I can beef up the engine.

Is there a model certain year range I need to look for?

Thanks!

Reply to
67RMod

Not that I know of. If you can find a set from an early Mustang, it will be easier to fit the head pipes. But it will be easier to find a set from a truck. They are everywhere.

Reply to
boB
  1. I like tri-Y headers on 260-302 street engines.

  1. The HE 262 would be my choice.

  2. I like the Y303 heads from Ford.

bradtx

Reply to
B2723m

Thanks for your input. I am going to swap in the XE 262 cam soon. I figure it'll give me another 400rpm to play with (up to 5600 advertised) still compliment my gearing well, and Performer intake is for up to

5500. Should have used that one first off. Also it's just a stock rebuilt 302 crate motor, and I don't want to spin it much harder than that.

This is a topic of endless debate... long-tube headers are fussy, but how fussy? And they crack, but how frequently? They would work, I have manual steering, and would only have to worry about the clutch cable getting in the way. But I was also told my engine would not flow enough air to make them worthwhile, for now anyway.

I am familiar with the Y303 head, but will have to look again. I was thinking World Products or something along those lines, cast iron, smaller chambers, bigger ports. No aluminum needed for this application...

Thx, Jas> 1. I like tri-Y headers on 260-302 street engines.

Reply to
67RMod

boB,

I found a good pair of these on Ebay for $20. None to be found at local bone yards, unfortunately.

I decided against tri-y's or other long-tubers for heat, maintenance, and expense. I decided against shorties for fit concerns (and getting to the spark plugs). When I get The Real Deal engine for my car, then I can put some money into a Real Deal exhaust. For now, these manifolds, meant for an engine with approx 17% greater displacement, 2" dual exh. with a constructed (bigger) h-pipe, and turbo mufflers is entirely adequate, and it's paid for. One thing I've learned... be patient and thoughtful with your changes, and don't do too many at once...

Reply to
Jason O'Brien

FWIW 78 up 351 heads had the same small valves and ports as a 302 so something earlier may be more of an advantage when searching for 351 manifolds, like maybe 69-74 models.

Reply to
winze

Excellent choice, and a heck of a deal. I don't think you'll be sorry.

Reply to
boB

sorry to tell you but you will notice a close to 30 hp and 50 tq in the mid rpm range 3200 to 3600.rpm.not were you want to loose power.car craft mag did a test on a dyno between 2 stock engines one with long tube headers 1 with cast manifold.they said the peak differance came early in the power curve with max differance at

3400rpm 19% drop in performance
Reply to
m f

Entering into the unknown, V'ger seeks information used to maintain his Vintage Burgundy 1965 Ford Mustang 2+2 w/289 ci 4v oem A Code V8, C4 Trans,

16x8" Vintage 40 wheels, with BF Goodrich gForce T/A 225/50ZR16 tires, American Racing "Mustang" Centercaps, and a whole lot of other stuff; )
Reply to
V'ger

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