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Hot as Hell in Dallas, TX continued

Ok, I've got some new info. Tell me if this sounds peculiar. When I run the A/C, the radiator fan kicks on immediately. Otherwise, it only turns on when the temp sensor tells it to. The problem is the timing. It's like a see-saw affect. I run the A/C, the temp goes up. Kill the A/C, the fan kicks on after the temp sensor tells it to(30-40 seconds), it cools, then heats up again when I turn the A/C back on. This is at idle speed in indirect sunlight. It's been doing the same thing on the road except it tends to run hotter in rush hour traffic. Since the heat has been so intense lately, it sometimes won't read cool until I park the bitch. I really haven't pushed it but I'm sure it will eventually overheat if the temp outside reaches above 100 degrees. Another observation I made was the coolant flow. Even at warm or hot temps the coolant doesn't seem to circulate. It just bubbles and overflows from the cap. I already replaced the thermostat so could a clogged radiator restrict flow this drastically? Assuming the the thermostat is working, then is the radiator the likely culprit. Let me know what you guys think, I'm just about worn out. Thanks,

Reply to
tarzan
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Since I just had to replace mine so it is on my mind, have you checked the fanblade clutch?

JC

Reply to
JC

I just replaced the fan and the original worked just as well. It's electric so it doesn't have a clutch. What year is your ride? Your fan must not be electric. Correct?

Reply to
tarzan

Tarzan... Yes, when I was referring to the "cluster" I meant the instrument panel (gauges).

I also have "other" oddities in the gauges.... sometimes the oil pressure appears to PEG, and as I mentioned earlier the temp reads hoTTT when it's noTTT!!!

As far as your A/C fan operation, yes it's correct that the fan comes on when the A/C is turned on . Actually it comes on HIGH when the A/C is turned on, and that's independent of the temp sensor.

BTW, do you realize that there are TWO temp senders ?? one is on the right side (as you face the motor) and has a single wire. This is for the Temp gauge. The other one, on the LEFT side, right near the water outlet has a plug with TWO wires. This is the sensor for the fan control. I have seen those get a pinhole leak in them and allow coolant into the sensor, ruining it.

Reply to
Armon Tanzerian

Actually, the fan appears to operate at one speed which initially raised a red flag. Problem is, the new fan operates at the same speed. And, yes I did replace both sensors as you pointed out. As far as I know, the fan doesn't have a relay fuse because it's operation is controled by the control module & computer. The only fuse I was able to locate was the high voltage circuit 30amp fuse, which was replaced for good measure. Does the control mod also control the low & high speed fan? As mentioned, the speed of the fan appears to remain at one speed. Also, you didn't address the coolant flow situation. What's your best guess? The thermostat is working because I can feel the coolant flowing through the upper radiator hose. I don't think the radiator is circulating the coolant because I can't visibly see it rus through the radiator. Next item on my list, have radiator serviced or replaced. Let me know what you think, Thanks,

Reply to
tarzan

Well, it can't really flow through the upper hose and NOT go into the radiator. Because of the way the (plastic) tanks are on these cars, it's kinda difficult to really see the flow. In my experience it's easier, and just about as cheap to just buy a new, or rebuilt rad than to mess with having it rodded out. I bought a spanking new one for $100.00, and the local rad shop sells rebuilts for about half that.

I would start buy doing what I did just to verify what the REAL temp of the motor is. Go buy a cheapo manual gauge at a parts store, and install it. To make it easy, I just bought a replacement water neck which had a tap for the sensor to screw in.

As far as the fan speed goes, I'll have to take a peek at the wiring diag. I forgot you were talking about a V6, and I was dealing with a V8. The 6 may well just have a 1 speed fan. (how many wires go to the fan motor ? 2 or

3 ?) Mine has 3. Black, Red, and Orange..

Reply to
Armon Tanzerian

Here's an update on the situation. It has been determined that the thermostat, fan, CCRM, belts, hoses, coolant temp. & sending sensors and radiator are all operating normally based on my conversations with a few service people at Ford. Someone mentioned a faulty heater core but that's been ruled out as well. However, considering all the above and the way the car is acting, the water pump is likely the issue. It would explain why the car heats up in traffic versus running cool on the highway. What happens is the engine temp reaches a point where even with the fan running, it won't return to normal operating temp unless there's increased air flow thus compensating for the lack of coolant being pumped into the engine. At low speeds, the pump isn't pushing enough coolant so the engine heats up. The fan kicks in and trys to cool the engine but the heat and lack of sustained air flow, causes it to remain warm. That's my theory anyway..it makes sense because i've flushed the radiator every year since I bought the bitch and the coolant looks good. I'm guessing the fins on the water pump are corroded to a failing point. Especially in 100 degree heat under stop and go conditions with the A/C running.

Oh, to answer your question, my fan has 2 wires, red & black.

Thanks again for your help. The information is greatly appreciated.

Reply to
tarzan

Could you have a collapsed hose somewhere?

Reply to
SVTKate

Nope, replaced upper and lower hose.

Reply to
tarzan

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