How can you tell if the odo has turned on a 1968?

"puttster" wrote

Nope, and stop crossposting. Thank you.

Ask if they have any repair/service bills (should state mileage) from the previous owners, if not I'd be very suspicious, although they both still could be good cars...Rico

Service records. You are getting services records with a low mileage cream puff aren't you?

Forensic examination of the car. 50k is low miles for a 40 year old car. The clutch and brake pedal pads should have a small amount of wear. The carpet heel pad should look good, wear marks but not thrashed. Pristine pedal pads should be a big flashing warning sign that the mileage claim is about as good as Bush's claim that Iraq had WMD

A better question might be HOW MANY time around has the odo gone?

Erich condition, condition condition

Newsgroup solutions are about sharing. The answer, if you had it, would be useful to both groups equally. I think you should reevaluate your perceived role here. thank you.

Easiest thing to do is check for wear on the gas and brake pedal rubber. Most people never change these parts, so if the ridges are very worn, it's probably rolled over. If it's not very worn, it either tells you that the miles are low, or the rubber is new.

Cheers!

zëkë

Short of service records, there's no SURE FIRE way to tell.

BUT... what you are really interested in anyway is the overall condition of the car. I've seen THRASHED 50k mile cars, and creampuff 150k cars. Take a close look at the car from underneath. Look at the condition of the drive train... rust, oil leaks, etc. Front end play , U-joints, etc... on a

*real* 50k car they all should be in great shape.

Oh, you might try to follow the car's pedigree.. That is, ask the current owner who HE bought it from, and then try and contact him, etc.. If it hasn't hit a dealer or auction, and didn't have a lot of owners, you may be able to trace it back pretty far.

"puttster" wrote

How 'bout posting individually to each group since we all know what usually ends up happening with crossposts. Usually it's a troll that starts it, but you weren't trolling. There's still a better way to do it even though you may have to put forth a tiny amount more effort.

See, we're already got off your *topic du jour*.

Try using a "Followup-To:" command in your post header if your browser supports it. That way the replies go to your group of choice, instead of ending up as excessive noise in multiple groups.

"puttster" wrote

How 'bout posting individually to each group since we all know what usually ends up happening with crossposts. Usually it's a troll that starts it, but you weren't trolling. There's still a better way to do it even though you may have to put forth a tiny amount more effort.

See, we're already off your *topic du jour*.

Try using a "Followup-To:" command in your post header if your browser supports it. That way the replies go to your group of choice, instead of ending up as excessive noise in multiple groups. -- Scott W. '66 Mustang HCS 289 '68 Ranchero 500 302 '69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W '97 Cougar 30th Anniv SE 4.6L ThunderSnake #57

Are you becomming our new resident policeman/grump/jerk, ala BillS?

66 6F HCS wrote:

Our? I can honestly say I've NEVER seen you post here before. If I knew half the stuff Bill S. has forgotten about Fords I'd still know twice what you do. F-ck off troll.

puttster opined in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

The best way to do it ..If possible.. is to run a trace on the title transfers.. otherwise you look for service stickers and judge general wear points.

Thanks, guys for all the advice. I do hope to get one and when I do I'll start posting as an owner instead of a shopper. Tom

I have two cars to look at, one is a "Classic" all original 50,000 miles, another has a new 302 engine and lots of new parts including shocks, starter exhaust, replaced interior and shows 60,000 miles. Both sellers said they believed the miles were accurate but could not say for sure if the odo had turned. So I am wondering if there was a way for me to check to see if 100 thousand or more miles should be added to the readings. Tom

------------- hi tom - i don't know what part of the country you in, but i have no problem telling if they have been rolled over the 100k mark.

if you know mustangs very well, you will know that there are certain points of wear that go with the car that was common for that year and you can tell if that part has been replaced or not.

and there are plenty of examples.

tip one - open the driver's side door and check for play movement. if the door is tight or loose will tell you the miles. still in doubt? go to the passenger door and do the same. this will tell you if the car was used by a couple or a single person depending on the wear pattern.

tip two - check the ball joints for wear. there's a lot of difference a

100k makes. and if the passenger side will be the first one to go because of the roughness of the road.

tip three - know your parts. usual parts that you mentioned are consumable. but other parts are not, such as chrome bolts. are they the stock plating or replacement plating?

there are a lot more that i could go into but it takes time to explain what you are checking for.

and if someone is asking why i know so much, i had an excellent teacher. he is one of the most leading authorities in restoring and selling of the old shelby, and rare mustangs. he will take an hour to examine a car and can tell you bolt by bolt what's original and what's not.

i got a chance to see a video he did on one of the "youngest" 1969 429 mustangs. it had 749 miles on it and was garage kept. he starts with all the owner's paperwork from the dealer, the factory papers, letters of recall or service bulletins, then goes to the interior checking to see if the seat belts and bolts are original. he checks the fabric of the seats, the door panels, and spends about 20 minutes, going through point by point inside the car. after that checks out, he then goes under the hood and starts in there doing the same process before doing the trunk and finally goes under the car from one end to the other.

here's some points i would question the owner.

why does the car have a new engine? it kills the value if it is not the original parts. what about the transmission? both should have original transmissions with no marks on the bolts from being taken out and replaced. and the rear end, how much backlash play does it have? still in doubt? check the condition of the diff. oil. at 50k, most people don't replace the original and it's an over sight, because they recommend replacement of the oil every 30k. most people don't, so the oil should look like it's got 50k on it, not 150 or 250k on it.

hope this info helps.

~ curtis

66 mustang 289 87 mustang GT 88 mustang GT T- top/auto 89 mustang GT conv 90 mustang GT 93 mustang LX - 5.0 98 crown vic P71 package