ironrod focks up alternators

Actually you got your head up your ass, alternators are not as primitive as their generator style counterparts. Of the three wires that come from unit the heavy wire goes back to the battery and supplies the charging current, of the two smaller wires one goes to a resistor bridge which is used to hold the warning light circuit cut off, voltage feedback through this wire is also used to energize the field coils so as to allow the alternator to start charging at lower RPM's. The third wire is a sense line, whose purpose is to measure the voltage drop between the source and load. It is the voltage feeding back through this line that tells the regulator what the output should be, it works as kind of a gate keeper, the higher the voltage along the sense line, the lower the output to the battery. Therefore, if the sense line is not connected the regulator has no reference and defaults to maximum output. You're right by the way, I DON'T have any certification. I learned all this just for the hell of it. If you paid good money to go to a technical school and still came out this stupid you might want to ask for a refund!

i am still looking for a sense line lmfao

hurc ast

lets turn this up a notch

what's there to turn up? everything there makes sense.. i think. battery provides power to the car, alternator keeps batter charged, voltage regualtor keeps the power output in check, and there will be a sensor there somewhere to signal the guage on the dash what to display. the only thing that doesn't make sense is the term 'generator'.. i'm not sure why a shop manual would call it that, that's not what an alternator does. an generator is a simple device, really.. and incredibly inneficient and weak. i don't think they have used generators in cars in more than 25 years.

an alternator, on the other hand, is immeasurably more efficient when compared to a generator, has slip rings instead of commutators, and produces up to 120 volts DC via a voltage regulator and state regualtor.

">>measure voltage at battery >>if its 14.5 or more the regualtor is ocked" --true.. but the regualtor is part of the alternator. thusly, the alternator is "focked"

Actually the alternator can produce much more than 120 volts AC. DC is what you get after that AC is run through the rectifier diodes inside the alternator. The regulator uses a remote sensing wire to keep the voltage in the vehicle at 13.8-14 volts. That remote wire is used to counteract the voltage drop that occurs through the long wire runs and multiple connections in the wiring harness. That is why you will usually find low voltage in vehicles that use a one wire alternator instead of a conventional 3 wire. The voltage lost in the wiring can be 1-1.5 volts depending on length of the run.

thusly, the

battery is

i meant AC, hehe sorry ;) but i didn't know that it could be more.

so far we seem to be in agreement on the usage of an alternator... it's been an informative post for all, i hope =)

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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16

funny the latest ford manual for a 05 mustang call it a generator LMFAO

h u r c

And so do the newer DC Service manuals. At the chrysler group, one of the guys there mentioned the reason it is a generator know instead of an alternator!

I have one 10SI here that I have had up to 220 with a good cooling fan on it. The field windings will take it but the stator starts to get REAL hot if you don't push some air through the housing. The older 10 series can do a bit more but the slip rings start to arc. if you really want to play with one find one of the older Leese Neville units from a heavy truck. Those can really crank out some power. 300 amps plus and 120 AC is child's play with them. Take a look at many ambulances and they are under the hood powering the hotel load. They are BIG and HEAVY though.

I have one 10SI here that I have had up to 220 with a good cooling fan on it. The field windings will take it but the stator starts to get REAL hot if you don't push some air through the housing. The older 10 series can do a bit more but the slip rings start to arc. if you really want to play with one find one of the older Leese Neville units from a heavy truck. Those can really crank out some power. 300 amps plus and 120 AC is child's play with them. Take a look at many ambulances and they are under the hood powering the hotel load. They are BIG and HEAVY though.