Learned in a new way how to overheat an engine

I took the '83 mustang 3.8L V-6 in to check the pressure in the radiator today and it held perfectly. I can drive this car all over town and it's cold. Soon as I go up an encline it overheats---even up the other side of an underpass when I gunned it to find out: it got hotter fast.

The mechanic told me that my timing is advanced. It always ran rough, and I've been fixing to have the intake manifold taken off and the legendary little pipes tapped back in. Got to get it timed. Ever seen an engine get hotter fast going uphill because of the timing?

voice from the past

Reply to
voice from the past
Loading thread data ...

I had the same problem with my 82 5.0L. The rad looked intact and didn't leak but the cooling fins were corroded thin enough that they couldn't dissipate the heat properly. It only overheated when driving over 120 kph. or up inclines. I'd suggest comparing the "feel" of the fins compared to a newer rad. At a minimum it might not hurt to give your rad a coat of paint.

Walms

Reply to
Walms

.

One has to wonder if it is a bad idea to have the air conditioner condenser in front of the radiator. Does this restrict airflow significantly?

voice from the past

Reply to
voice from the past

Around 7/16/2003 8:58 PM, voice from the past spake thusly:

Dunno; I don't have A/C. :(

You'll probably have to ask someone who knows A/C systems better, but I doubt it significantly blocks the airflow to the radiator (It's just a little radiator itself, right?), and I'm guessing that's probably the best place to put it or Ford would have put it somewhere else.

Reply to
Garth Almgren

Well... consider than anything may restrict airflow but you did approach it with the right concept... significantly is the key word. In your case that may not be a whole lot.

If all were new and functioning in good order, you'd have to conclude... no. On a marginal cooling system after the unit has picked up road debris, may have some bent fins, etc... maybe. You can see your equipment, we can't. Consider how it looks. Hose or blow it out if you think it'll help. Don't bend anything.

One thing to consider... if you are running your a/c when you are experiencing the overheating... don't run the a/c for awhile and see if the problem goes away. A no money, easy test. These no/low dollar tests should be the first things you do. When the a/c is on, you end up trying to cool your radiator down with warmed air... as we've stated, if your cooling system is marginal, running the a/c can push it past it's limit.

You just may have enough small cooling issues pushing your system to hard, so under heavy load, it's not doing it's job. Keep in mind to keep from overheating... you need the coolest air possible, the most air flow possible, good coolant flow, no combustion chamber gases warming the coolant, clean uncontaminated coolant. Straight water may not cut it (although I admit, I test with water cuz it's "free").

When all else failed for me, I got a larger 3 core radiator and a large cfm fan. Still goes to 220 when it's hot out, but that's better than it was. Differences I experience with an overheating Mustang... mine will get the hottest while idling. It will get hot driving but maxs out some just over 200, unless I drive and drive and drive... which I don't with it.

btw... have ya got a way to measure the actual temp besides the stock gauge? I am real curious to know the actual temp that the thing gets to. If ya can get it, post it.

Another no dollar test... we do this with my wifes Mustang cuz it's "hotblooded"... drive with the heater on. You'll hate it but if the thing keeps from overheating just by blowing air over the heater core, helping to keep the the coolant temp down.... you know it's "on the edge". (Yea... I have a new thermostat and bigger radiator going in her car soon...)

Oh, I was gonna mention at some point... if the motor has been rebuilt and the cylinders walls cut to thin, that can cause overheating. Just a thought. I'm grasping for straws now. :)

Keep trying and keep us updated.

-= Francis Yarra =- fyarraATjunoDOTcom

formatting link
- My drywall website
formatting link
- My C64 website
formatting link
- My personal website

Reply to
Nospam9212

You could try using a higher pressure rated cap. If your cap is say something like 6-9 pounds, try something 16-19 pounds. The more pressure you put on the coolant, the hotter it can get before it boils. That's the whole idea... like a pressure cooker.

-= Francis Yarra =- fyarraATjunoDOTcom

formatting link
- My drywall website
formatting link
- My C64 website
formatting link
- My personal website

Reply to
Nospam9212

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.