Location of Gas Filter...

Hey Everybody,

Happy 4th of July...

Now for my question...I was doing a little 30K maintance on my 2003 V6 Coupe this weekend...I changed the Oil, Oil Filter, PCV value, and I was going to change the Fuel filter, but alas, the heat got to me and I stopped searching for the filter...Can anyone point me in the right direction, so I can knock it out this weekend? Does anyone have any other suggestions on what to do for the 30K maintance? I have already changed out the airfilter when I put in my CAI.

Thanks!

Shane

Reply to
Shane Metzler
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It should be right in front of the gas tank. I think you need a disconnect tool to get the fuel lines disconnected. Make sure to wear eye protection. It's likely to squirt out. I always used to trip the fuel-pump switch in the back of the car while the engine was running. This would remove most of the fuel pressure but there's was always some fuel running out once the lines are disconnected. I could usually get it to trip by banging on the inside of the trunk next to the switch. The engine would shut off in a few seconds after it tripped. Don't forget to push the switch again before you (try) to start it after you have replaced the filter.

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Reply to
Rein

Yes you will need a disconnect tool. No amount of pulling on the hose couplings will allow you to release the old filter without damaging the lines.

Sears sells a tool (as do many other shops) -- ask for a ford fuel line disconnect tool. I think it was under $10.00. And wear goggles and have a pan ready to catch any fuel that spills.

One other idea: Do this with a cold motor and exhaust. Less chance of burns or an accidental fire that way.

Steve

Re> >

Reply to
steve

I'm always surprised when anyone but myself changes their fuel filter. This has to be the most overlooked maintenance item in automotive history.

Pep Boys has an inexpensive, nylon tool that will unlock the union. The tool will be difficult to use - just be patient, and it will unlock in a few mins. Wear goggles. Relieve the line pressure first by depressing the schrader valve on the engine's fuel rail.

While you're at it, consider cleaning your MAF, ACT and EGR valve as well. Again, all are overlooked. Mostly.

-JD

________________________________________________________ | | | 1998 Laser Red GT RAMFM Member Since 1997 | | M-5400-A Suspension http:/207.13.104.8/users/jdadams || Subframe Connectors & Seat Bracing, Strut Tower Brace || 4-point K-frame Brace, Tremec T-45 & OEM 3.27:1 Gears ||________________________________________________________|

Reply to
JD Adams

I'm suprised other's here have overlooked this... but AFAIK, it's in the manual.

EFI needs to be de-pressurized before opening the system. An easier way then banging on your trunk is to remove the EFI fuse in the fuse box (not sure where it is on your car). Start the engine and let it run untill it stalls from being out of gas.

This way, when you take off your filter gas will not spray out at you. Be sure to replace the fuse before trying to start the car again, and remember that it will take a few cranks to start after you get everything all buttoned up.

Reply to
Carl Saiyed

I know what the MAF, and EGR value is but what is the ACT? Also, what do you use to clean these parts?

Thanks!

Reply to
Shane Metzler

Reply to
Shane Metzler

Hope it helps!

Carl

Reply to
Carl Saiyed
** I know what the MAF, and EGR value is but what is the ACT? Also, what do ** you use to clean these parts? ** ** Thanks! ** ** Shane

The ACT is a small, push-in sensor that is located in the rubber intake snorkel upstream from the MAF. It measures intake air temps. On my '98 GT, it is about 3" upstream, and easily removed for cleaning.

To clean all of these parts, I recommend a good spray electrical contact cleaner like CRC. For the EGR valve, throttle body or carburetor cleaner may be needed instead if it is extremely dirty or clogged. Be sure to wipe a bit of anti-sieze on the threads before reassembling. Some use a soft toothbrush to loosen up the crud as well. It's all good. Keep it all clean, and it will idle and run like a Swiss Watch.

-JD

________________________________________________________ | | | 1998 Laser Red GT RAMFM Member Since 1997 | | M-5400-A Suspension http:/207.13.104.8/users/jdadams || Subframe Connectors & Seat Bracing, Strut Tower Brace || 4-point K-frame Brace, Tremec T-45 & OEM 3.27:1 Gears ||________________________________________________________|

Reply to
JD Adams

Reply to
Shane Metzler

Some people call the "Air Charge Temperature" sensor the "IAT" or "Intake Air Temperature" sensor.

-Mike

Reply to
<memset

It's an IAT until you move it from the intake manifold to the air intake box *or* to the output tube of the blower / turbo then it becomes an ACT. Interactive Tecnologies makes a kit to relocate this sensor from the manifold to the airbox.

Reply to
WindsorFox[SS]

Mine came stock in the air intake tube. Was just saying that some people may recognize "IAT" and not "ACT".

-Mike

Reply to
<memset

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