OH OH OH.... in the DUH Mike department....
Disconnect your battery before doing electrical.
Kate
| > -Mike | >
| > -- | > A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT | > Cold air intake | > FRPP 3.73 gears | > Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter | > Full Boar turbo mufflers | > Hi-speed fan switch | > 255/60R-15 rear tires | > Subframe connectors | >
| >
| >> -Mike | >>
| >> -- | >> A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT | >> Cold air intake | >> FRPP 3.73 gears | >> Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter | >> Full Boar turbo mufflers | >> Hi-speed fan switch | >> 255/60R-15 rear tires | >> Subframe connectors | >>
| >>
| >> > Happy hunting with the fuses... | >> >
| >> > Heath | >> >
| >> > > -Mike | >> > >
| >> > > -- | >> > > A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT | >> > > Cold air intake | >> > > FRPP 3.73 gears | >> > > Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter | >> > > Full Boar turbo mufflers | >> > > Hi-speed fan switch | >> > > 255/60R-15 rear tires | >> > > Subframe connectors | >> > >
| >> > >
| >> > > > Didn't know Ford did this; but it's common in the imports... | >> > > >
| >> > > > Sounds like the power-locks, remote entry, etc are all part of | > the | >> > > > factory headunit. With Hondas, you have to remount the factory | >> headunit | >> > > up | >> > > > inside the dash and use a special splitter harness to connect an | >> > > aftermarket | >> > > > head in... | >> > > >
| >> > > > Question now may be; how badly do you want to replace the | >> > > > factory | >> > > > system... | >> > > >
| >> > > > > -Mike | >> > > > >
| >> > > > > -- | >> > > > > A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT | >> > > > > Cold air intake | >> > > > > FRPP 3.73 gears | >> > > > > Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter | >> > > > > Full Boar turbo mufflers | >> > > > > Hi-speed fan switch | >> > > > > 255/60R-15 rear tires | >> > > > > Subframe connectors | >> > > > >
| >> > > > >
| >> > > > > > Typically, the head unit will come with a wire-harness; that's | >> > > > > > colour-coded... Take that, and match colour-for-colour with | > the | >> > > > adapter | >> > > > > to | >> > > > > > fit the factory harness... Plug the one end into the factory | >> > > connector | >> > > > in | >> > > > > > the dash, plug the other end into the head-unit (if it's | >> removable - | >> > > > most | >> > > > > > are these days) - then slide the radio home... Don't forget the | >> > > antenna | >> > > > > > wire, too... | >> > > > > >
| >> > > > > > > P.S. I cut a few wires, but they are back together already. | >> > > > > > >
| >> > > > > > > -Mike | >> > > > > > >
| >> > > > > > > -- | >> > > > > > > A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT | >> > > > > > > Cold air intake | >> > > > > > > FRPP 3.73 gears | >> > > > > > > Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter | >> > > > > > > Full Boar turbo mufflers | >> > > > > > > Hi-speed fan switch | >> > > > > > > 255/60R-15 rear tires | >> > > > > > > Subframe connectors | >> > > > > > >
| >> > > > > > >
| >> > > > > > > "66 6F HCS" wrote in | >> message | >> > > > > > > news:l snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com... | >> > > > > > > >
| >> > > > > > > > Why not just get the adapter from Scosche or Crutchfield's? | > No | >> > > > > cutting, | >> > > > > > no | >> > > > > > > > splicing, no guessing. | >> > > > > > > >
| >> > > > > > > > If you just GOTTA cut wires yourself, head to the service | >> > > department | >> > > > > at | >> > > > > > > your | >> > > > > > > > local dealership. They are usually willing to print the | > wiring | >> > > > diagram | >> > > > > > > from | >> > > > > > > > the service manual on the 'puter. | >> > > > > > > > -- | >> > > > > > > > Scott W. | >> > > > > > > > '66 Mustang HCS 289 | >> > > > > > > > '68 Ranchero 500 302 | >> > > > > > > > '69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W | >> > > > > > > > '97 Cougar 30th Anniv SE 4.6L | >> > > > > > > > ThunderSnake #57 | >> > > > > > > >
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