Need Advice

Have you checked the thermostat? Usually a bad thermostat will not open and therefore not allow coolant to flow through the system. This would not allow heated water to the heater core and cause that symptom. Thermostats are cheap and easy to replace. You might also want to replace the radiator cap since it is cheap too but I doubt this is the problem

If you have a head gasket problem there would be obvious signs like steam coming out the tail pipes or coolant in the oil, oil in the coolant or coolant leaking from the head gaskets. Also, the engine would likely be missing. Something like a misfire. you can also take to a garage and they can use coated paper strips to see if you have any hydrocarbons (i.e. oil or exhaust gases) in the coolant. If it shows positive then that might indicate a head gasket problem.

Another thing it might be is a clogged radiator. If the coolant can't flow freely from one side to the other then the engine will overheat. You can get them cleaned but many times it is cheaper to buy a new one from Autozone etc.

If you go to the extent of removing the heads then only your wallet will limit your options. For the 302 engines I don't think it pays to just install an intake and leave the stock heads in place. If you really want to do something worthwhile then get one of the head/intake/cam kits. This will give you some real performance you can feel. I don't recommend doing much to a 5.0L engine unless the heads are changed. The stock heads are really the bottle neck for flow on the Fox Mustangs.

Was also thinking the heater core? These things are notorious for failing on the Foxes. They are also a b*tch to replace. But, its something to look at as well as the things Mr. Johnson suggested.

Just a thought.

Dane

Sounds like you have about the same skill level I have. I replaced the head gasket on my 65 289 and it worked out. My main worry was that there was something wrong such as a warped head that I wouldnt catch.

G

Most times when a heater core goes bad you can smell the coolant inside the car and the windshield will fog up horribly. Also, they likely would cause a complete blockage of the cooling system like he is describing. You are right though about them being a PITA to replace. If there is one job worth paying to have done that is it.

Check the spark plugs. My leaking head gasket was obvious. 7 normal plugs and one coated with white gunk.

G

no heat => could be the control wire fell off the lever on the heater box, just under the dash on passenger side, I had an 87 5.0 where it would work itself off about every 1000 miles. Easy to check, this it is on the side facing the passenger

Check the color of your plugs, on-line pix of plugs, called reading the plugs. check for greasy water have someone watch with the cap off replace cap replace thermostat

then think about head gasket, maybe

I would put a Keene Bell blower on it myself.

-87 5.0

-93 5.0 8# KB and tuned, fast

core goes out about 100k to 130k or so Green liquid inside or just outside the firewall you have to open up the plastic air box, then tack weld the plastic back together, it was not really ment to be opened and replaced

Thank you all for your replies, especially Mr. Johnson, for his detailed reply. I have replaced the thermostat, radiator, and all hoses within the last eighteen months, so I lean away from them being the problem, although I replaced the hoses with the Ford Motorsport 'Hi-Milers', and the fit was a b*tch. I wonder if a kinked hose could cause my symptoms. I haven't had a wet passenger side footwell, fogged windshield, or coolant smell, so wishful thinking tells me the core is okay. If it was bad, that's one I would be more than happy to pay my mechanic to do.

What disturbed me the most, and pointed me toward the head gasket was the 'bubbling over'. In my mind's eye, that's exhaust gases escaping into the water jacket, and venting / bubbling out through the overflow coolant bottle. However, there's no 'milkshaked' oil, or apparent oil in the coolant. Maybe this one is worth sending to my shop for diagnosis, then deciding whether they should fix it or I should. For what it's worth, I have a great mechanic here in Wilmington, DE, who 'gets' my modest build-up, and is happy to tell me when I can do a job myself, or if it's best left to him. Email me for a referral if anyone's interested in this area.

Any thoughts on the relative difficulty of the head gasket job, though? Even though I'm going to get it professionally diagnosed, I'm curious. I found a good article from Mustang Monthly at

and I've alsoseen suggestions to use new head bolts, and to have the headsinspected / surfaced. The scary part in the article above is cleaningthe gasket surfaces. That seems like a great chance for someone togouge the heads / decks and mating surfaces their first time through.

I have had head gaskets blow where no coolant go into the oil so I wouldn't rule it out just on this alone. That is why I said to do the hydrocarbon test because it will detect oil and/or residuals from exhaust gases present in the coolant. The test takes all of 15 seconds.

I have replaced the head gaskets on my car several times (comes from running 16 psi of boost) and it isn't too bad. Take PLENTY of photographs as you go through the disassembly process. These photos are invaluable as you start reassembly. Also, keep meticulous track of all the parts. Make sure the rods, rocker arms etc. go back in the same locations if you reuse them. check the plane on the heads and block. If there is any warping then you need to get them planed. If it occurs, then it usually happens on the heads. I would suggest getting the heads plained anyway. It will give you a little more compression and therefore a little more power. You should also check the compression rates of the valve springs. They can vary wildly over time and if they need replaced now is the time to do it. Maybe look into doing some port matching between the heads, intake and headers. Sanding the air pathways will also improve power output for little money. Actually, rebuilding the heads completely isn't a bad idea if you are keeping the stock parts.

My bet is you can do the job but just take things slow and methodical. Document parts and keep track of where they they came from. It isn't a hard job to do, just a little tedious. Also, get a good manual with torque specs for bolts and have a couple of torque wrenches on had to torque the critical bolts to specs. You'll need one for the large bolts and another one for the smaller ones.

One last thing is to do a thorough compression test before you start. If the short block needs work then doing all the upper engine work will be a waste of time. There are ways to determine if compression loss is due to the heads or piston rings. In the old days we would do a test normally and then shoot higher viscosity oil into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole and run another test. This will seal the rings better on the compression stroke of that cylinder. If the second test showed much higher compression than the first then there is a good chance the cylinder walls were scored or the rings were bad for that cylinder. Don't fill the chamber with oil though and do this on a warm engine.

Watch out for the thickness of the gasket, you can change compression up or down via thickness of gasket. If you put on a blower, increase thickness of gasket to lower compression some.

I would check compression on all cylinders first and see if they read in the

40 to 50 range, they all need to be within about 10% of each other, if you have a high one, like 57 or above, you may have too much carbon built-up inside the cylinder, so..... rebuild time ? or if you have low compression, leaky rings or valves etc.

Good luck, the 5.0 is a Great Car!

Michael Johnson wrote in news:_8adnT- KdevMnj_anZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

mmmmmmmmm.... GT40 heads.........

I have them and they are OK but IMO there are better choices unless you want to stay with Ford parts. AFR makes some very good heads for one.

what is even more of an attention grabber is when the harmonic balancer goes out!

Two things first, did you replace your radiator cap with one of the correct poundage and did you remember to replace the restricktor in the hot water hose going into the firewall.

PS I have no idea where the spell checker came up with that word.

Biggest pain you would most likely run into with doing the job yourself is adjusting the valves (rockers)... Takes a bit of experience for that, the rest is rather basic with a Chilton or Haynes manual.

~John