question: oil filter relocation kits

bitbucket opined in news: snipped-for-privacy@sverige.freeshell.org:

Umm... lemme guess.

Enough to make the dipstick read right, immediately after warm shutdown?

We're not talking "dry sump" here.

Not much at all. We're only talking about a few onces here.

What parts are you looking at? I've tried the cast alum parts with the factory made lines. Pretty inexpensive from Jegs. After about a year or so, it was leaking. So I trashed it. Now (in another vehicle) I'm using billit alum parts from Canton, and braided AN lines. It's a lot more expensive up front. But it will last forever and never leak. Looks good, too.

About a quart for mine. I have the Amsoil dual remote.

| > so now i'm considering getting a relocation kit in advance of my k-member. | > but i wonder ... with the extra tubing, and a larger filter that some of | > them seem to ship with, how much extra oil will i need? any ideas? i suppose | > if could call the manufacturer, but hoped someone here may know... | | What parts are you looking at? I've tried the cast alum parts with

well, i stumbled across maximum motorsports units. i haven't done any further research yet, but i really want to make sure there isn't anything i'm overlooking as far as reasons NOT to install one...

i'll check out Canton as well.

This is essentially what I used, except my parts were made by Canton. I suspect there's very little differance in what I have and what Maximum Motorsports sells. And considering what you get, that's not a bad price, either. You could save a little money buying piece meal from summit and others, but not a whole lot. The standard kit should work well, and last just about forever. Thanx for the tip, that's a good looking kit. I see they have some other good parts I can use, too. Damn. Time to get out the check book again.

Here is what I have and it provides a lot better filtration than a single filter unit. I have the BMK 13, the 15 and up are specific apps for Cummins and Pawerstrokes.

Here is an interesting add on that is new and I think I will try as well, a pre-oiler that will stand alone or bolt right on to the remote filter unit...

Those are both good products. The companies have excellent reputations. No doubt they are an improvement over stock. A post shut down oiler will really help a turbo last longer. However, do you really need better filtration? For my application

- hard street driving with some occasional track times - I'm not convinced they are needed. Why do we change the oil? Not because it has crap floating in it. But because it's additive package is used up, and it's properties have changed. Additional filtering won't change that. The cannister filter has been used on millions of cars and trucks without failure. With regular changes the engines are good for 200K+ miles. I'm not convinced a better filter will help me. It certainly won't hurt, but I'm not sure there's enough benfit to justify the expense. I'd rather spend the money on better brakes, A thermostatic oil cooler, or something like that. Of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong.

But isn't the Dual remote the same cost as the one you were looking at?

Not really; it's the same cash price, but not nearly the quality. And from what I can see, what they offer is not really a dual remote filtration system, but their bypass filtration system. Take a close look at the pictured kit. Cast alum block adapter, standard rubber lines with hose clamps, and no AN lines or fittings. It's not nearly as well designed as the MM kit.

Bypass filtration is most likely better than a standard cannister. Sure looks like it to me anyway. The real question is, do I need that? Am I willing to spend the bux to get it? And the answer to both (for me) is No. I don't plan on driving my truck more than about 150K miles or so.

Nice to have if you plan on keeping your car for 300K miles or so. If you do not keep your car that long and do regular oil changes, this is a waste of money.

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