Questions about vintage mustang parts.

I have a 1966 Mustang with a 289. I have a couple of questions.

1) Im going to be using a modern Edelbrock cam, carb, and intake and leave the rest stock. Is there anything i should look out for before putting in this combination? Ive heard some things about the aluminum manifolds having a hard time sealing around the water neck, is there anything i can do to fix that?

2) On the outside, id like her to look like they did back when she was new. Id like to know what kind of stuff people did to the outside back in 66 to beef these cars up, such as tires, hoods, shifters, etc.

Thanks!

Reply to
Errol Smith
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I've never known that to be a problem with new parts. Some new water necks use an O ring, and some a paper gasket. I always supplement that with a little silicone sealant. Edelbrock (Carter) style carbs were pretty much unheard of on Fords in the late 60's and early 70's. For a more period look, consider a Holley. Tri-Y headers were available from Shelby American. They are still available from a variety of sources.

First off, jacking up the rear about 50 feet in to the air was pretty popular. Either with big shackles, or air jacker springs. But I wouldn't recommend it. Nobody does that anymore for some very good reasons. 14" and 15" Crager chrome spoke wheels with 70 and 60 series tires was also pretty common. Fortunatly, those wheels are still available in

15" sizes. But good street tires in 15" can be tough to find, just about impossible in 14".
Reply to
boB

From doing this myself on the '71 its pretty much what he said, except to add that you need to be very careful with the torque on tightening these aluminum manifolds. The Edelbrocks don't have much meat at the corners. I had no issues sealing using the silicone and paper gasket.

I did not swap cam's please let us know what k> > I have a 1966 Mustang with a 289. I have a couple of questions. > >

Reply to
Scott Van Nest

I chose the Edelbrock Performer cam. Good performance from Idle to

5500 RPMs and itll go well with the performer intake and carb. Ive heard that Holley's are really tricky to tune properly. Is this true?

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Thats the site to the cam im getting, the one for the 289 non-roller. What is "Advertised Duration" and "Duration at 0.050"? Lift is how far the cam opens the valve, right?

Thanks!

Reply to
Errol Smith

I don't think so. I've been using them for years. Usually, they work well right out of the box. But a little fine tuning is som,etimes helpfull. Fortunatly, there are reams of information available from books and magazines.

Reply to
boB

"Errol Smith" wrote

It's how long the valve stays open, not how far open it's pushed, That's lift.

Reply to
66 6F HCS

"66 6F HCS" wrote

Sorry, got the first part mixed with the second. Yes, lift is how far open the valve is pushed. IIRC, Advertised duration is the total time the valve stays open and duration at .050" is how long it takes to go from .050" to the top and back down to .050".

Reply to
66 6F HCS

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