questions re 94 - 98 Mustangs

I am looking to get a 94 - 98 Mustang and know very little about them. I've searched the newsgroup here and there are lots of misc post about issues but it is difficult to get the big picture.

I've always had Honda's, so this will be my first Ford. I'm just looking for a stock car without lots of modifications. Can someone summarize the big issues I should look for. What are the major red flags as I search for one?

Are there any resources that provide info by year?

Thanks, Don

Reply to
Don
Loading thread data ...

You've narrowed your options down to 94-98 Mustangs, so I take it you like that particular body style. That helps the decision making a lot, being able to choose a car.

Styling difference between the years are very minimal. The biggest is the taillights... '94-95 had horizontal ones, '96-98 had vertical ones. In '98 they removed the clock pod from the top of the dash. Other than that, basically only color options really changed through the years. A Cobra differs in styling by a different hood and front bumper cover. Also, the rear bumper cover says "Cobra" instead of "Mustang" or "Mustang GT" That's the only styling difference.

Your engine options are:

'94-95 - 3.8L V6 and 5.0L V8 (Cobra 5.0L V8 w/ small factory modifications) '96-98 - 3.8L V6 and 4.6L V8 SOHC (Cobra 4.6L V8 DOHC)

Transmission options for any of the vehicles listed would be 5-speed manual and 4-speed automatic. Some year Cobras did not come with an automatic option. This is solely your choice here. If you get a 5-speed, watch for worn second gear synchros caused by hard shifting by the people who owned the car before you. I'm not big into automatics so I don't know of many of their problems... but drive the car and make sure it shifts in and out of OD properly.. from what I hear, that's the first sign of failure.

The 3.8L V6 is a very popular choice. Though not nearly as fast as the GTs, they do make good commuter cars. They're a little easier on gas, much easier in the insurance hit, and generally much cheaper to buy as well. If you're not looking for go-fast, this is the option to choose. Beware of head gasket problems, as the 3.8L V6 is an iron block with aluminum heads. The difference in the expansion rates of the metals caused head gasket wear and eventual failure. There was a big problem with head gaskets in 1999 when they upped the horsepower out of the engine, but even some of the older models suffered head gasket failures. As long as the car isn't tortured, it should last quite a while. They're not so slow that they won't get out of their own way, but it's not worth trying to race one of these against anything unless you do some work to it first.

The 5.0L V8 is the hot rodder's typical option. Easy to modify, loads of performance aftermarket parts, and cheaper to do anything with. The '94-95 GTs were not stellar performers compared to the '87-93 cars due to the added weight of the SN-95 chassis, but they could hold their own, and can be opened up real easily. Parts known to fail are minor... water pumps are popular issues, as are rear main seals. I've personally seen (and some members of RAMFM own) 200,000+ mile 5.0 cars with the stock engine + transmission in place. I owned a 5.0 with 180,000 miles on it and a rebuilt transmission due to the 2nd gear synchro destroyed by the previous owner.

The 4.6L V8 is a very smooth running engine. If you're looking for V8 power but aren't overly interested in getting crazy with the horsepower, I'd choose this option. Smooth power, good gas mileage, and proven longevity in the Crown Vic fleet vehicles of the world. The 4.6L in '96-98 was not quite the performer it is today either, but can be aided by installing the '99-up heads. It is much more costly to modify a 4.6L engine however.

If you're buying a V8, it's probably been run fairly hard. These cars are usually bought to run and run hard... especially the stick cars. Take anything you get to an independant mechanic.

Test drive the car. Run it through its paces. It won't handle like a Honda right off of the lot, and the V6 probably won't accelerate much faster than a Honda either (depending on the Honda). See if it's right for you... if you like to drive it. There are plenty of shortcomings, which can be usually helped with some time and care. A Mustang can be made to go fast in a straight line, or whip around turns at over 1g. From the factory, they're a decent, solid car, and a base from which to start if you are looking for something big into performance. Yet there are many people who buy them and never touch a thing on them.

They're quite reliable cars when properly maintained, but I can say that about most vehicles today. Maintenance is key.

If you're looking for specific information, you can ask here and it will probably be made readily available to you. Hope that helped give you a bit of an overview.

JS

Reply to
JS

at 12 Jul 2003, Don [ snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net] wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

If a V6, make sure the headgasket recall has been done on the earlier ones (I believe 94-96 most vulnerable) or you may end up with a blown headgasket. Which is not cheap. Swapping the engine will set you back anything from $2 to $3K based on where and what you have done to it. (been there, done that) V8's don't have this issue.

It all depends on who drove the car and how. My 95 V6 is in damn good shape for her age. But then the previous owner took reasonably good care of her. Now if you get one that's been driven hard, chances are more will be wrong with it due to excessive wear.

Some of the recall and TSB info can be found at the NTHSA website. Giving you an indication of what issues you need to make sure have been adressed.

Oh yeah, if you start a V6 and see water coming out of the tailpipe in more than a few drops, chances are there's a blown gasket. One used v6 I looked at, had that problem and the salesdroid tried to pawn it off as the A/C leaking. I am no experienced mechanic, but that looked pretty iffy to me. Add to that the 'Bad Boys drive bad toys' stickers and some other stuff on that car and it adds up to one Pony haveing been ridden hard and put up wet.

Reply to
Paul

That was a great response JS!

Having owned a 95 GT and now the 98 Cobra, I would only advise this much:

Avoid the automatic transmission if you can If you want to modify the car, go for the 5.0 I would recommend the V8, no matter which way you go, because it's easier to start further up the food chain when the bug bites you, and it will.

As far as appearance changes, the two will swap any body or interior part you choose to, so that is not an issue, as proven by all of the 95 style mods I have done to my 98. Be sure to look for signs of body damage and obvious neglect. The condition of the car appearance wise will tell you a lot about how it has been maintained, or loved... DO take it to an independant mechanic for inspection.

Personally, I think that this is the best looking body style of the Mustangs.

Another thought... if you are so inclined, look at a rag top. Great stress reliever, not as quiet inside, but who cares.

Happy hunting!

Kate

98 Cobra Drop Top
formatting link

| > I've always had Honda's, so this will be my first Ford. I'm just | > looking for a stock car without lots of modifications. Can someone | > summarize the big issues I should look for. What are the major red | > flags as I search for one? | >

| > Are there any resources that provide info by year? | >

| > Thanks, | > Don | |

Reply to
SVTKate

Hmmm. That is but one persons opinion not necessarily shared by all. A good shift kit with the right high stall torque converter will put the AODE in a very competitive position.

Reply to
Richard

Richard, read the original poster's message again. He stated, " I'm just looking for a stock car without lots of modifications." In that context, JD's statement is accurate in comparison with the 5-spd.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Tom

1998 GT Coupe 5-spd. Bright Atlantic Blue K&N FIPK, Tri-Ax, 3.73's, FRPP Coated Shorties, SpeedCal, P&P 2K Heads, 2K Intake, Bassani X-Pipe and Cat-Back, Subframe Connectors, JMS Chip, Eagle Alloy Wheels
formatting link
Reply to
bluestang98

You are correct of course. I was only intending to make a point that automatics need not always be dismissed out of hand. In fact most will agree that the factory shifter on a standard will be significantly improved with a new shifter which probably compares with the installation of a shift kit in the auto. Also, the AODE is recognized as being a much better transmission that the earlier AOD.

Reply to
Richard

I don't have near as good of responses as the others have had so far but I thought I'd give you my opinion.

I just bought a '95 GT Convertible this spring and I absolutely love it. As they've said it has the 5.0L V8 in it and it has done everything I have asked of it and I've had no problems whatsoever. The only thing I really wish I would have been more patient about is the transmission. I ended up getting the AOD because I just couldn't find many 5 speeds that were still in good shape, or at least as good as mine.

Happy hunting!

Reply to
Nick

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.