Questions to ask ...

Ok, I'll ask some more specific questions that maybe some folks can help me with. I'm going to go take a look at and drive the car listed in this ad this weekend:

I talked to the seller at some length about the car today. Managed to determine the following items:

o) '67 fastback rebuilt as a GT350 replica/retromod o) Body is in great condition with no bondo work or rust o) Paint is in 'good' shape with the seller rating it an 8 out of 10 (color is black with white stripes) - apparently some small paint chips/cracks on the hood o) Engine is a 289 bored out to a 348 w/holley 4 barrel, headers, etc. - contends that it puts out about 450hp - likely? o) 68,000 original miles on the car with about 10,000 since engine/drivetrain rebuild o) Interior is in 'good' shape with the exception of the front bucket seats - these will likely need to be replaced/redone - cost? o) There is no AC but the vents are supposedly there - cost of adding AC to this car? o) Front disc brakes o) Suspension rebuild

Now, given all of that what am I missing? What additional info do I need to know. In addition, with this somewhat limited info is $20k a reasonable asking price? Keep in mind that it needs to be something that I could drive on a somewhat regular basis. I will be going to drive it and take a look in person this weekend but want to be prepared to ask additional questions when I'm there.

Also, what additional costs could I expect to incur. I know it's hard if not impossible to know without knowing more and seeing the vehicle but if anyone has advice I'd appreciate it. In particular, what would the costs of having someone do the following (or possibly do myself):

o) Add AC o) Have front bucket seats redone or replaced o) Possible drivetrain upgrades to brakes and/or suspension

Thanks a ton of any help you all can provide.

-Link

As I recall, Hemmings.com home page has a section on buying away from home... what to ask, etc. I have seen articles in Mustang Monthly which point out things to look for for each year model, therefore what to ask.

This is a vehicle sale.... make sure the title is clean. A friend shelled out his bucks and before he knew it the car was repo'd because there was a hidden lein holder. Of course his was only a Chevy.

Just because you ask does not mean you get truth in return. I just went through THAT with half a dozen 60s/70s Mustangs. Usually a beautiful paint covering a world of sin... sides that wouldn't hold a magnet. Same for fresh interior.

Cars that were stictly show, but upon closer look, had all the signs of being raced (if it's manual.... well... and if it's built like a race horse, and looks like a race horse, it probably is a race horse).

And WHY is it being sold if it's so good? Not to say people don't sell good cars, but when so much money and work has gone into one... ya gotta wonder. I'm looking at an R model right now that the owner has had for many years (documented), but has new interests (hunting) which calls for a different kind of vehicle. In his case, he wants it to got to another club member if possible.

LET THE BUYER BEWARE.

Well, you can't just bore a 289 out to a 347; it has a stroker kit in it. There has been mention of 289 blocks having shorter cylinder bores than 302's, and thus are a little "iffy" with a 3.40" crank (less piston support at BDC). The 450-horse thing is very optimistic unless there are some real trick parts on it.

Depends on which seats are in there. Original '67 plain seats might be under 200 for both covers plus labor. Later deluxe seats more.

If the engine is really built I'd rethink the A/C thing. Besides, who need air in a black car in Phoenix?

The A/C companies make "daily driver" and "original style" type systems, which range from 6 or 7 hundred on up.

You want a detailed list of the components used in the engine and drivetrain rebuild, and the shop(s) that performed the work. Ask for receipts. Find out if the car has been in AZ since new. Get the DSO number on the VIN tag (make sure the VIN on the door tag matches the dash tag and the paperwork). All the codes on the door tag can be deciphered. Look for paint bubbles in the lower quarters and doors, and down in the trunk wells on both sides. Look way up under the dash to look for signs of water leakage, indicative of cowl rot. Look closely at the shock towers inside the engine compartment for cracks. Look for misaligned body panels. Ask for the original build sheet if he has it.

The first two are answered; the last is anybody's guess, as nobody knows what's already there or what you want to do. Don't buy it on the spot. Get enough info to make a good decision first.

CobraJet

Yeah, I failed to mention some of the other things he listed going into it. However, I'm a bit skeptical on the claimed HP as well. Although, it's not a critical piece (to me) unless he's inflating the price based on it.

Black car w/black interior in 110+ degrees weather and no AC would be a heat stroke waiting to happen ;-)

So, maybe $1500 installed?

Great info. I'll be adding this stuff to my list of things to check and ask.

No, I definitely won't be buying anything on the spot. Assuming, I like what I see and hear when I go take a look would you recommend that I schedule a time to bring the car by (or have him take car by) someplace like the Mustang Shop in Chandler to have them take a look? Would they even be willing to do something like that. I'm just concerned about me being able to identify a fraud (either seller or car he's representing).

Lastly, what's your though on the $20k asking price for what you know of the vehicle? Too high? Reasonable deal?

Again, thanks a bunch.

-Link

Tricked-out engines can get into many thousands of dollars, and that would have a bearing on the selling price.

Well, I live here too so I know. But let's get back to the engine. IF this thing is putting out 450 horses (and he can produce a dyno sheet), then it may be running pretty warm by itself. Taking it out in triple digit temps and loading it down with an A/C compressor may not be the hot ticket (excuse the pun). Do you understand what I'm getting at?

You know, I'm much better at piling up old A/C components than installing them, so I don't know.

To clarify, the DSO code tells you what area of the U.S. the car was sent to when it was born. The Phoenix code was 75, and helps relieve some of the worry about hidden rust.

I used to do business with the original owner there, but I don't know the person he sold it to. As this is being represented as a clone, there is little that can be fraudulent. There are no rules about how accurate a clone should be or anything like that. Take a lot of pictures if you can.

I can't answer that. Too much is unknown, and it boils down to what it's worth to *you*. Certainly, buying a core vehicle and contracting a shop to build one up will cost you much more, but then it is fresh and you know exactly what you are getting. After you see it, price regular Mustang fastbacks around and decide if the Shelby look is worth the difference. (Check the VIN's 5th digit; if it's a K or S-code GT originally, it actually may be worth more returned to stock).

Good luck.

CobraJet

Since you apparently don't have much experience in these cars I have three recommendations for checking out the car.

1. Take it to a trusted body shop and have it thoroughly inspected for body and chassis condition. There are alot of rotten chassis out there, even in the desert states.

1. Take it to a trusted performance automotive shop and have the drivetrain checked out, preferrably dyno'd to either confirm or dispute the stated HP. The seller is figuring 450hp to his price...

2. Get the car to a licensed appraiser and find out the "true" value of the car. It may or may not effect what you can get the car for, but at least you'll know the market value of the car.

These inspections won't be cheap, but there are thousands of stories of unknowledgeable people getting burned on these car deals. If you're really interested in this particular car, its far better to spend a few hundred having it checked, than to get cheated. BTW... don't make passing these inspections a contingency to the sale, get them done before you seriously negotiate the price.

Of course if you're not absolutely interested in this car, don't waste money on a car you're just "kicking the tires" on.

Good Luck!