The Mustang's Rack & Pinion is getting a bit long in the tooth. Looking to repair or replace. Looks like the right-hand tie rod is getting worn, I've never been in this area before so I need the kind of advice you give first timers. Can the rack be easily repaired or do I need to go with a replacement unit. The mechanics of the operation look to be straight forward enough, or is there a surprise waiting for me down there?
ironrod opined in news:gjGKd.109572$w62.2138@bgtnsc05- news.ops.worldnet.att.net:
It's as easy or easier than replacing the rack, if you're experienced with a wrench and situational repair tactics... but READ the manual on it then read another one. tips;
I think it's best to replace the entire rack assembly, spindle to spindle. It's a little more money than replacing a few tie rod ends, but not much. And the improvement in handeling is worth it. It's a prettty straight foreward operation. Simply R&R. What you see is what you get. Make sure you have tubing wrenchs for the hydraulic lines, and a tie rod end remover or pickle fork. Measure the distance from the center of one outer tie rod end and the other; make sure you measure at the center. When you put the new tie rod ends in the new rack, you can measure them to be sure the toe in will be almost exact. You still need an alignment, but it's not so bad driving there. Add anti-seize to the tie rod end studs and threads installing. If you need to service them again in a few years it will be a lot easier.
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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16
Been doing it for decades with good results. It almost always destroys the dust boot, but you're replacing it anyway.
The gear puller style tie rod end removers are much better, no doubt about that. But they are also more expensive. And I happen to have a pickle fork that I bought back in the 70's that works very well.
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1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16I'm gonna go with boB a couple of times..... Can't say for stateside but rebuilt long racks are pretty reasonable here in the Great White North.... reasonable enough that if one inner TRE is pooched and there are a lot of miles on the victim (meaning everything else is wearing too), a long rack could very well be the most economical route, in the long run. All that's left is the outers.
As for the pickle fork..... two... read 'e,... TWO properly placed blows with a hammer can release the taper *most* ball joints or tierod ends - been doing this for a long time and I'm still having trouble with "properly placed" on occasion. Bear in mind that improperly placed can mean reusing a, now, unsafe joint.
Where the "never use a picklefork" CRAP came from. I shall never know. If the joint that is being separated is not going to be replaced, apply a film of grease to the surfaces of the fork, be sure to insinuate the fork between the boot and the hole.... a small, flat screwdriver works well to lift the boot enough to get the fork in the right juxtapostition. Apply the force so that as much surface of the fork contacts the surfaces as much as possible.
As for deciding between inner end and long rack.... pay attention to other indicators. Is the PS fluid dark? Does the fluid have "odor"? Any other abnormal events? Keeping the car or schlepping it soon to another new RAMFM "what can I do to fix what the previous owner f*cked up" denizen? Nothing is cut and dried... each and every one of us has different deals, desires and, most importantly, moral fiber. Done improperly, replacing an inner tie rod end can result in immediate problems or problems down the road. Even after all these years, I find replacing inner tie rod ends as something I would prefer to avoid. I do them regularly but the opportunity for trouble is very high.
Some of the youngsters may object to my musings...... in almost 40 years of doing this for a living, I would think that I've seen one or two more examples than they have.
YMMV
Thanks for all the advice, I've owned this car since new so I like to keep it original. A problem down here is the quality of rebuilt parts. Given my druthers I'd rather replace with a new unit, lacking that I would like to replace the worn parts on my otherwise good (hopefully) original core. The problem is that there is only so much I can do by myself, I don't want to farm out anymore repairs than I have to for fear that the car will come back more trashed than when it left. When I lived in California, I took the beast to a Mustang fanatic for repair. Now that I'm stuck out hear in the dessert, there aren't any true Mustang fanatics around and the mechanics that are available are just a few more years older than the car.
You should also consider replacing the P/S pump when replacing the rack.
Mark C. opined in news: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:
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