Re: Just Wondering ....

Ok... I don't claim to know most of this stuff, but this is my understanding....

Forced induction cars - and all cars IIRC, have a vacuum canister with a one-way check valve that will retain some vacuum for things like the heater controls, emissions control motors, etc. Also realize that a majority of the time, the car is being operated in vacuum (especially when slowing down, thus providing the brake booster with the necessary vacuum). I'm guessing here, but it sounds feasible. In any normal car, at WOT you also have no useable vacuum, and the heater controls still function and such.

Nitrous wet and dry shots.... dry shots spray only the nitrous and involve a modified fuel injection system to compensate. This can be anything from a chip telling your computer to add more fuel when the nitrous is applied (in which case you'll probably have to upgrade fuel system components) to putting the nitrous injector before the MAF sensor, telling the computer there is more oxygen entering and providing more fuel. Wet systems provide both fuel and nitrous at the same time. They may also require an upgraded fuel system. This allows the computer to function normally and let the electronics that come with the nitrous kit do the fuel monitoring.

Nitrous should also be used with a few safety precautions... a switch to monitor fuel pressure is a definate thing to have, unless you want a freak accident to cost you dearly. Wide open throttle switches, RPM window activation switches, etc, control when the nitrous kicks in.

On just about any engine, it's recommended to not kick the nitrous in too early or you'll most likely hurt something. 3000 RPM window switches seem to be the number flying around... therefore when the RPMs reach 3000, it'll kick in the sauce and away you go. Just make sure you watch the tach though... if you think redline comes fast enough now, it'll be worse. I guess with an AOD you could perhaps let it shift itself, but you might want to have that rebuilt as well for a more performance-oriented application such as the one you're proposing.

I don't know the limits on blocks. If you really want to squeeze the hell out of it, spend the money and build a totally new engine from an A4 block with forged internals... you should be good to the upper hundreds of horsepower. If you're just looking for a toy, have the block checked for cracks and stressed areas, rebuild it with good forged internals, and squeeze it.. you *should* be able to safely achieve 450-500hp... I think beyond that the block wants to give up... but I can't remember exactly.

Hope that was some food for thought. You might also want to consider how you're gonna get the power to the pavement....

JS

As I daydream about my dream 5.0 I get curious to one thing. For all > that have forced induction motors, Where do you get the vacuum to run > things such as the brake booster and other vacuum dependant thing ? Another > question is concerning nos. What's the diffrence between wet and dry shots > ? How high can you safely go on a nicely built motor ? When is the best > time to "Push the buttom" on a car with AOD ? Just wondering . . . > > -- > Luna >
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Tire ratings and such I'm not sure about. I think there's some kind of standard that the manufacturers have to go by, but I'm not sure what it is and if it's very specific or just something that they get to interpret.

My Nitto 555's hold the road pretty well. They also have a new road race tire out that is supposed to one-up those tires as well.

This brings in mind the question... what is your eventual goal for the car? Dumping money into this and that hardly seems worth it if you don't have a direction.

Seems like you're looking for more of a canyon carver. Stiff chassis and tight suspension will go a long way to making your beast perform in the turns, and even make a slightly underpowered car more fun to drive. My turbo-4 Probe is a blast in the turns because the suspension and chassis built into that car from the factory make it a nice little grabber... it'll out-handle my Cobra (with the Nittos on it) and it only has relatively cheap all-purpose tires on it.

In this case, I'd say stay away from the nitrous. It's great for a shot here and a shot there, but it's not all the time on demand, and will continually cost you to refill the bottle. I personally think it better for drag cars than road racers. Stick with something that can be there every time you push on the go pedal. Blowers are cheaper than turbo kits typically, but the gains that can be realized from a properly set up turbo kit are very large. Putting even two small turbos on a 5.0 built to handle them can provide a whole lotta fun every time out.

I had an '86 Capri, so I know about the '86 5.0. It was the weakest SEFI

5.0 perhaps, but some of the earlier 80's 5.0s were weaker in terms of power output. That beast still pulled very strong at 180,000 on the clock. In fact, if I fixed the leaks it has, I could probably trade back for it (traded it for a fresh T-5 and a set of fresh E7TEs) and drive the hell out of it, even with 180,000 it.

Whatever route you decide to go, take the time and do it right. Spend the couple extra bucks here and there when necessary. Sure beats having to do it all over again when something goes wrong, especially in a forced induction or nitrous application.

JS

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JS

LOL @ the pick 6 comment.

At least you have a goal for the car. Many people mod these cars up and not even have a direction, then they're not pleased with the results.

The supsension chioces are good for stiffening up the chassis and making it feel like one car instead of two distinctly separate cars held in place by some floorpan and some roof... which in your case is minimal at best. An aftermarket shock/spring package might also help keep you firmly on the ground.

Don't skimp out on the rubber either... the tires are your only contact with the road. I've seen people bitching about their car's performance and then you look and they have those tires on that are supposed to last 100,000. Hint to those people - if it's gonna last that long, it's probably closer to the hardness of brick.

I still like forced induction over NOS for a road machine. Not only is it legal (it's illegal to run your car on the street with the NOS bottle valve open in PA), but it's always there, you never have to refill it, and even if you're under the 3000 RPM level, you can still put some boost to it. With a rebuilt, forged bottom end and new heads / valve seals, you should have a very reliable engine provided you're not trying to pump out a ton of boost. You should be able to build your engine easily to handle 10psi of boost, more than enough to throw you through the turns, and do so all day long.

As for intakes, people really seem to like the Cobra or GT-40 intakes. The Trick Flow stuff (at least the Track Heat) is way too big on an N/A 302 and would be better suited on a 351 or blown/stroked 302. I have the Track Heat setup and the car ran better with it off, at least with the stock heads on it.

Daydreaming is of course free. Finding room to get everything to fit in your budget is priceless. ;-)

JS

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