Rough Paint?

Our new (to us) 2000 Mustang Convertible has gorgeous looking red/orange paint, with a black hood and side scoops.

However, when waxing the vehicle with a spray & wipe wax, I can feel a "roughness" to the finish that isn't present on my other vehicles The finish looks fine, but there is obviously something (Tree sap? Hazing?) on the paint that shouldn't be there. It's gotten better with multiple applications (especially with a Meguilar's spray-on wax, which seems to be more of a "real" wax) but it's still there.

I'm assuming the best thing to do is to buff it out, but with what? Can anyone recommend a procedure and/or product for this? Should I use a buffer, or just good old elbow grease?

Thanks!

Reply to
Jay Honeck
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I would recommend using a clay bar to remove the impurities currently on the paints surface. Mothers for one has a kit which can be found at most auto supplies. Just be sure to keep surface wet with the spray while using the clay bar, it works fantastic.

TIM -aka- MUSTTANGUY "at" AOL "dot" COM

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Reply to
Musttanguy

Get yourself an orbital buffer at Harbor Freight Tools or at Sears and get some Meguiars Cleaner wax and get after it. No disrespect to Tim but I have tried the clay bar routine and I was not all that thrilled with the results. Not that it's bad, and it did do something but in my eyes nothing beats a nice buff and wax.

Kate

| >paint, with a black hood and side >scoops. | >when waxing the vehicle with a spray & >wipe wax, I can feel a | >"roughness" to the finish | >Can anyone recommend a procedure >and/or product for this? | | I would recommend using a clay bar to remove the impurities currently on the | paints surface. | Mothers for one has a kit which can be found at most auto supplies. | Just be sure to keep surface wet with the spray while using the clay bar, it | works fantastic. | | | TIM -aka- | MUSTTANGUY "at" AOL "dot" COM |

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Reply to
SVTKate
** I would recommend using a clay bar to remove the impurities currently on the ** paints surface. ** Mothers for one has a kit which can be found at most auto supplies. ** Just be sure to keep surface wet with the spray while using the clay bar, it ** works fantastic.

I agree. Using a clay bar to remove all of the junk on the surface before glazing or polishing makes the paint feel like baby oil on a mirror. Work slowly, use plenty of spray, and you'll love the result.

-JD

________________________________________________________ | | | 1998 Laser Red GT RAMFM Member Since 1998 | | M-5400-A Suspension http:/207.13.104.8/users/jdadams || Subframe Connectors & Seat Bracing, Strut Tower Brace || 4-point K-frame Brace, Tremec T-45 & OEM 3.27:1 Gears ||________________________________________________________|

Reply to
JD Adams

Using an orbital (or any other mechanized) buffer is a wonderful way for a person to ruin their paint if they are not a real expert. Even with an expert at the controls, a pad may slip or a chunk of dirt may get into the pad.

The clear coat is easily ruined, and damage may not present itself until light hits the car 'just right' -- typically quite a while after you finish buffing the car.

Of course doing the job by hand is not without risks too, but I believe that it is way too easy to mis-apply an orbital polisher and not realize it until it is too late.

Even though I have carefully watched many experts use orbital polishers and believe that I know how, there is still no way that I would use a buffer on factory clear coat / base coat paint myself.

I wouldn't let just anyone use one on my vehicles either.

The only way I would even consider letting someone use an orbital polisher on my cars is:

1) They had a stellar reputation, plenty of references (and photos) to prove it

2) The job could not be done by hand for some reason

I can't tell you how many cars I see here in Southern California with swirl marks and circular scratch patterns that are the result of 'buffers gone wild.' I cringe when I see them.

Am I too paranoid?

Steve

SVTKate wrote:

Reply to
steve

I too would stay away from the orbital buffers. As Steve pointed out, there are far to many variables. I've used Meguiar's Clear Coat Body Scrub Paint Cleaner. Worked great for removing sap, tar, and road grime. Didn't hurt the finish at all. Followed up with a nice coat of wax, when I was done the paint looked like it was still wet. Cost around $5.50 +/-.

Just my .02 cents

JP

Reply to
JP

Thanks for the tips, guys!

Nice thing about a Mustang convertible -- waxing it -- even by hand -- doesn't take very long!

:-)

Reply to
Jay Honeck

You should try waxing my F-150.....

Geeze, talk about a lot of square footage.

Steve

Jay H> Thanks for the tips, guys!

Reply to
steve

Now Steve, I am talking about a orbital, not one of those pneumatic professional jobs. The orbitals that you can buy for $29-39 are nearly idiot proof as long as you clean the car really well before you use them. The big dogs should be left to a prom they will burn the paint off a car faster than if you put gas on it and threw a match at it if you don't know what you are doing.

With these little orbitals you cannot press on them without bogging them down and they are a great way to maintain the finish on your righ. They also are really good about not leaving swirl marks because of the orbital action. With the cleaner wax, it is a very mild abrasive that would take a long time to damage the finish.

Kate

| > Kate | >

| >>red/orange | >

| > | >paint, with a black hood and side >scoops. | > | >when waxing the vehicle with a spray & >wipe wax, I can feel a | > | >"roughness" to the finish | > | >Can anyone recommend a procedure >and/or product for this? | > | | > | I would recommend using a clay bar to remove the impurities currently on | > the | > | paints surface. | > | Mothers for one has a kit which can be found at most auto supplies. | > | Just be sure to keep surface wet with the spray while using the clay bar, | > it | > | works fantastic. | > | | > | | > | TIM -aka- | > | MUSTTANGUY "at" AOL "dot" COM | > |

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| >

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Reply to
SVTKate

some of the things you come up with JD.... that's quite a mental image, well written.

Kate

Work | slowly, use plenty of spray, and you'll love the result. | | | | -JD | | ________________________________________________________ | | | | | 1998 Laser Red GT RAMFM Member Since 1998 | | | M-5400-A Suspension http:/207.13.104.8/users/jdadams || | Subframe Connectors & Seat Bracing, Strut Tower Brace || | 4-point K-frame Brace, Tremec T-45 & OEM 3.27:1 Gears || |________________________________________________________|

Reply to
SVTKate

We have an F250 Xtra cab long bed... oh yea... square footage like a small farm!

If that thing is going to get waxed, hubby is gonna do it!

Kate

| > Nice thing about a Mustang convertible -- waxing it -- even by hand -- | > doesn't take very long! | >

| > :-) |

Reply to
SVTKate

This hubby's solution to that would involve a lift kit, real big tires, and frequent trips to the "spray and wash self serve" place for the spray on wax. I'd really wax the sides by hand, 'cause that's all anyone would really be able to see.

Eric G

Reply to
Eric Gironda

Gotcha beat: Try waxing an airplane.

Those wings may *look* small...but they're 30 feet wide... and you've got to wax the BOTTOM, too!

*groan*

:-)

Reply to
Jay Honeck

Gotcha beat: Try waxing an airplane.

Those wings may *look* small...but they're 30 feet wide... and you've got to wax the BOTTOM, too!

*groan*

:-)

Reply to
Jay Honeck

Gotcha beat: Try waxing an airplane.

Those wings may *look* small...but they're 30 feet wide... and you've got to wax the BOTTOM, too!

*groan*

:-)

Reply to
Jay Honeck

Wow -- wonder why this appeared three times?

Reply to
Jay Honeck

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