Speedometer woes

I have nothing to add of any value for fixing your speedometers, but I can suggest an electronic unit. Runs off of your vehicle speed sensor (which is still working if your cruise still works), and will accurately display speeds as well as be able to be recalibrated. These could be digital or analog, but in any event, you'll need to do some modifying to the dash to allow that to work.

You might want to try to replace your cable complete from the driven gear to where it plugs into the speedometer. Maybe there's a problem in there that's causing your issues. That's the only thing that can kill a speedometer, at least in my mind..

JS

I've never heard of that. Seems like it would be difficult for the cable to be the cause unless you have badly misaligned the entire cable housing with the speedo head. The cable should exit the speedo straight back with no side pressure on it. If it's angling up or down or sideways perhaps that's causing the problem. As to the cable being "too long", that sounds odd too. If you can push the cable all the way back into the cable sheath so the little bearing touches the seat in the sheath, that about all that matters.

The only thing that I can think of that comes to mind is that there is something about the cable/sheath making it try to snake out towards the speedo head. That would put forward pressure on the speedo head and might cause wear.

----------------- Jim '88 LX 5.0 (now in car heaven) '89 LX 5.0 vert '99 GT 35th Anniversery Edition - Silver Mods to date - Relocated trunk release to drivers side, shortened throttle cable.

OK you have my interest piqued. Can you post information on where to locate the e-unit. I just bought another speedo which (if history plays itself out) should last me another 2-3 years, but I am interested in researching the options for later.

Thanks!

Try rerouting the cable to remove any sharp angles in the run...might also try putting a little lithium grease on the end of the cable going into the housing...

Check Dakota Digital for good info on digital gear. Probably dakotadigital.com but I'm not positive.

If you're looking for a digital gauge, Nordskog sells completely digital gauges - speedometers/odometers included.

If you're looking for an analog gauge (like the stock one only able to be calibrated and more accurate), Auto Meter sells them in all sorts of variety.

Do web-searches for either of these companies to get to their websites.

Mind you that both of these are going to cost a bit of money and you'll have to modify *something* to put them in. It's an option though if the cable/speedometer problem proves elusive.

How well does your 200K mile GT run? What all have you done to it to get that kind of mileage out of it and whereabout do you live? Here in the rust belt, 200K on anything's pretty rare, and since the roads here suck, suspension components wear out quickly. My '97 Cobra has 48K on it and the suspension already groans. I drive it hard occasionally, but I figured some of the creaks and moans of my high-mileage 5.0's were just typical old-age noises...

JS

Let me start by saying thanks for all of the input. Come to think of it I think my problems started shortly after I had the AOD rebuilt so I'll check from the Tranny back. With the money I've spent on replacing mechanical speedos I could have almost paid for a Nordskog :-(

The engine is as strong as the day I drove it off the lot. Wish I could say that I've babied it to long life but to be honest it's seen more abuse than I care to admit. It's a daily driver and while I don't abuse it, I don't baby it either. Since I have the AOD in it the computer pretty much ensures that I don't push too hard if I'm WOT when merging or just playing (never gets over 5500 RPM). The only thing that I can think of is the fact that I have run synthetic in it since about 28K and even with that it only gets changed about every 5-6K. Must have been a Wednesday engine build :-)

I have lived in the mid-west (KS, OK, and MO) since owning the car so body is in good shape other than the paint is crappy (had an accident about 8 years ago and all of the clear coat has peeled off where the car was repaired). Missouri roads have definitely put the suspension to the test. I broke the sway bar connecting rod (don't know the tech term for it but connects the sway bar to the a frame). I keep telling myself when the engine goes south I'll build/buy a strong engine for it but she (thank goodness for my wallet) just won't do it.

Thanks again to all who replied and MERRY CHRISTMAS!