Sticking valve?

Sounds like a sticky lifter. You could try to flush the engine, but that has its own set of problems such as potentially turning your seals into soft goo. If it was my car, I'd do this:

Drain out 1/2 quart of oil. Warm engine up to operating temp. Add 1/2 quart of engine flush to oil (or half the amount recommended on the can). Let the engine IDLE for 5-10 minutes. (IDLE!!!) Drain oil and change filter (while it's still hot...be careful). Refill with good synthetic like Mobil1 5W-40 "Truck & SUV formula" or whatever your favorite weight of oil is.

Cheers,

Is the exhaust leaking? This is most often a cause for ticking.

The exhaust does not appear to be leaking. It's something definitely under the valve cover.

Along the same lines, I've had good results with Marvel Mystery Oil.

Also, the Cleveland valvetrain DOES have a lash adjustment. It's accomplished with rocker pedestal shims (to increase lash) or longer pushrods (to decrease lash). In the case of a ticking valvetrain, it's decreased lash -- actually negative lash -- that's needed.

I agree, it sounds like a lifter. In the old days, I'd put in a quart of ATF to take care of that problem. Since that would likely draw flames, let me suggest a quart of Rislone. It works wonders for dirty lifters and should be left in from oil change to oil change. It contains no caustic chemicals to harm seals and will, over time, clean up the engine's innards.

Dave

I agree with you on this. I have often seen it quieten sticky lifters. Add about a half pint and drive the car about 200 miles or so, and see if it removes the varnish. If so, then change oil. (I have written some oils of MY approved list, because they seem to make varnishing more severe than others)

I have seen lifters that continue to click too. even with flush, adjustment, etc. In some cases, the lifter itself has sustained damage or wear, and replacement solves it. In other cases, the cam may be damaged. And finally, if you have too much clearance (usually due to wear) of crankshaft/bearing surfaces some lifters just dont get enough hydraulic pressure to function as they should. At 30,000 miles, this shouldn't be an issue.

Would this be a bad idea in a vehicle with high (175K) miles? I would imagine that a high mileage vehicle would have some sludge buildup that may be sealing something that the Rislone would disrupt. Sort of the same idea as using synthetic oil in a high mileage motor.

So you'd rather continue to use oil that causes varnish so you don't expose a leaky seal? I guess that's one way of looking at it. My way of looking at it is it is better to know if you've got a dodgy seal rather than wait for some of that sludge to start breaking off in chunks and clogging vital oil passages.

Cheers,

Part of the reason why synthetic's seem to leak where conventional oils didn't, is because of it's smaller molecules. Rislone isn't synthetic. It's just a thin, highly refined, high quality upper cyl. lubricant that, as it happens, also works well for cleaning up engine internals, OVER TIME. In other words, you don't put it in today and have a clean engine tomorrow. It will continue to clean as long as you continue to use it.

Dave

One thing I've noticed is that if you do something about a noisy lifter right away, your chances are MUCH better than if you procrastinate. Let them hammer too long and they'll never come out of it.

Dave