Story about EGR cleaning

When I ran my OBD codes for the first time, I got a 33 and 34 (relating to EGR function). My first action was to pull off the EGR valve and see what it looked like inside. It was almost completely (~ 95%) full of carbon coking, and the pintle would not move. I soaked it in carb cleaner and gradually scraped all the junk out, and finally got the pintle to move.

So I cleared the codes and ran the test again. I got the same codes. So I pulled the EGR back off and took a closer look at the EGR spacer. Yep, the holes in the spacer that match up to the EGR were also 95% full of coking. So I pulled off the throttle body & spacer; the gaskets literally disintegrated. I went to Advance for some gaskets, and I picked up a can of CRC throttle body cleaner. (Says it won't harm to teflon coating.) Turns out all of the chambers inside the spacer (all around the intake opening) were full of coking too. This was terrible! I cleaned it all out using the T.B. cleaner, and while I was at it I cleaned the T.B. and then dried everything with compressed air.

I reassembled everything, and took it out for a test drive (besides, I had to heat up the engine before I could run another KOER test). It seemed to run a lot better, and had more throttle response. (I know, this was probably 50-100% psychological.) So I got back, ran the tests again and all I got was a pair off 11's.

So for those of you with high-mileage cars which might not have ever had the EGR & spacer cleaned, spend a couple of hours and give them a good cleaning. You'll be happy with the results. While you're at it, clean out the IAC valve, and (although this is controversial) you may consider removing the mass air sensor and cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner. I cleaned my mass air about a year ago (almost certainly the first time it had been cleaned) and I definitely noticed a seat-of-the-pants improvement in power.

Now, if I just knew someplace to take the upper intake to have it cleaned out... (it was all crappy looking inside too, but I don't think I have the means to clean it properly myself.)

John

93 GT
Reply to
John
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I must ask what is so controversial about cleaning the MAF element? This is a well documented problem with units that do not super-heat at the end of a run cycle to burn off contaminants. I recommend cleaning the MAF 2X yearly; the IAC/EGR/ACT all need to be cleaned yearly as well.

Ever vigilant,

-JD

Reply to
JD Adams

Your right on cleaning the MAF as I had problems with hesitation and pinging. When I got of my ass to clean the MAF and throttle body inside. It made a big improvement.

Reply to
69GT4spdtrac-loc

JD Adams opined in news: snipped-for-privacy@this.box:

Hear, hear!!!!

This is the LEAST controversial thing... the only controversy about cleaning the MAF is about how fragile the element is. The myth is that it shouldnt be touched as it is fragile.. it isnt FOR ITS SIZE. Just dont bend, scrape or tap it.

Also DO NOT use windex.. that leaves a very thin film. A utility artist's brush and alcohol works fine.

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

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